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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-28-2012, 07:31 AM   #38896
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[QUOTE=Pulse_;11602799]Hi Niels,

I used to race in Mol once but in 1/8 buggy offroad (electric). The problem is..it's 2 hours away from where I live (Bruxelles) and I have no car. But it would be awesome to meet some 1/12 drivers!

What ESC do you typically run in racing? Could I use my 2s saddle packs but just using 1 saddle (=1 cell)?

I saw the Pro10 cars which look awesome too but I don't know what's the difference in cost. The advantage with the Pro10 is that I could run it on an outdoor track.

I forgot to mention I'm looking everywhere for this type of car used. I would need a chassis + body + parts + ESC + servo + lipos + tires. So if anyone has this and can ship it in Belgium, feel free to drop me a pm [/QUOTE

Hi Pulse,

We typically run 1S since they have less height than 1 cell from a 2S saddle pack. It will be a pain to get those 2S Saddle in... You could run WorldGT in Mol (and outdoors).
I run a Speedpassion GT2.1EX but basically any speedo will do, either with a built in booster or a seperate small powerpack or seperate booster...
I can get you hooked up with some equipment, I have a spare car, servo, 1S lipos & tyres should not be a problem, just don't have any motors or speedo... But I can ask around.
If ur interested let me know...

Cheers,

Niels
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:59 AM   #38897
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In Europe, Corally dominates everything onroad. Atleast that is the case in Germany and I would assume the same in Belgium since it is right next to the Netherlands.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:35 AM   #38898
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[QUOTE=Nilezb;11603048]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Hi Niels,

I used to race in Mol once but in 1/8 buggy offroad (electric). The problem is..it's 2 hours away from where I live (Bruxelles) and I have no car. But it would be awesome to meet some 1/12 drivers!

What ESC do you typically run in racing? Could I use my 2s saddle packs but just using 1 saddle (=1 cell)?

I saw the Pro10 cars which look awesome too but I don't know what's the difference in cost. The advantage with the Pro10 is that I could run it on an outdoor track.

I forgot to mention I'm looking everywhere for this type of car used. I would need a chassis + body + parts + ESC + servo + lipos + tires. So if anyone has this and can ship it in Belgium, feel free to drop me a pm [/QUOTE

Hi Pulse,

We typically run 1S since they have less height than 1 cell from a 2S saddle pack. It will be a pain to get those 2S Saddle in... You could run WorldGT in Mol (and outdoors).
I run a Speedpassion GT2.1EX but basically any speedo will do, either with a built in booster or a seperate small powerpack or seperate booster...
I can get you hooked up with some equipment, I have a spare car, servo, 1S lipos & tyres should not be a problem, just don't have any motors or speedo... But I can ask around.
If ur interested let me know...

Cheers,

Niels
Thanks, can you send me a pm whith what you got? I hope to find a few tracks around my area
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:17 AM   #38899
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Originally Posted by Matthew Bailey View Post
In Europe, Corally dominates everything onroad. Atleast that is the case in Germany and I would assume the same in Belgium since it is right next to the Netherlands.
Erm, I wouldn't have said that.

In the UK there is barely anyone running Corally stuff, and those that do are mostly drivers who receive some sort of support from Corally or their UK importer. That is certainly the case at most of the events I have attended for the last 1-2 years...

The popular 1/12 brand in the UK by a long way is Associated, with CRC's, V-Dezigns and Serpent's making up most of the remainder. In TC Schumacher have the most popular chassis with Hot Bodies, Associated, Xray, Tamiya and Serpent all having good followings too.

In Germany I thought that the TC market was mostly Tamiya, Serpent and Yokomo while 1/12th scale is a mix of everything as it is in most countries?
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:34 AM   #38900
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Originally Posted by Mark Stiles View Post
The popular 1/12 brand in the UK by a long way is Associated, with CRC's, V-Dezigns and Serpent's making up most of the remainder. In TC Schumacher have the most popular chassis with Hot Bodies, Associated, Xray, Tamiya and Serpent all having good followings too.
CRC's also pick up some pretty decent results in the UK too, don't they Mr. Stiles?
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0

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Old 12-28-2012, 11:11 AM   #38901
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Erm, I wouldn't have said that.

In the UK there is barely anyone running Corally stuff, and those that do are mostly drivers who receive some sort of support from Corally or their UK importer. That is certainly the case at most of the events I have attended for the last 1-2 years...

The popular 1/12 brand in the UK by a long way is Associated, with CRC's, V-Dezigns and Serpent's making up most of the remainder. In TC Schumacher have the most popular chassis with Hot Bodies, Associated, Xray, Tamiya and Serpent all having good followings too.

In Germany I thought that the TC market was mostly Tamiya, Serpent and Yokomo while 1/12th scale is a mix of everything as it is in most countries?
Correct! don't forget TOP & X-ray for Belgium
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:13 AM   #38902
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Originally Posted by Mark Stiles View Post
Erm, I wouldn't have said that.

In the UK there is barely anyone running Corally stuff, and those that do are mostly drivers who receive some sort of support from Corally or their UK importer. That is certainly the case at most of the events I have attended for the last 1-2 years...

The popular 1/12 brand in the UK by a long way is Associated, with CRC's, V-Dezigns and Serpent's making up most of the remainder. In TC Schumacher have the most popular chassis with Hot Bodies, Associated, Xray, Tamiya and Serpent all having good followings too.

In Germany I thought that the TC market was mostly Tamiya, Serpent and Yokomo while 1/12th scale is a mix of everything as it is in most countries?
I was surprised about Corally dominating in Europe too so I did some research and ended with the same conclusions. Associated and CRC seem to be the most used platforms.

I'm wondering: should I rather go with morerecent cars like the Xti and the 12R5.2, or it doesn't matter? How is the improvement in 1/12 from a generation to another?
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:38 PM   #38903
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
I was surprised about Corally dominating in Europe too so I did some research and ended with the same conclusions. Associated and CRC seem to be the most used platforms.

I'm wondering: should I rather go with morerecent cars like the Xti and the 12R5.2, or it doesn't matter? How is the improvement in 1/12 from a generation to another?
Any link, or 1s specific chassis will do
If you happen to find a good deal on something like that

Obviously, the latest greatest is nice to have
But not necessarily a need to have in order to be competitive
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:34 PM   #38904
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Any link, or 1s specific chassis will do
If you happen to find a good deal on something like that

Obviously, the latest greatest is nice to have
But not necessarily a need to have in order to be competitive
Ok, I just want a good basis to learn from the category first. Later, I'll think about being competitive. I'll take my time, it's the category I want to learn the most since I began the hobby.
I'm comparing different ESC and there are so many that it's hard to have a clear idea of what is a good compromise between features and price. I'm a smooth driver so I need something soft and progressive. Are there any ESC and motor out there that are know for being particularly smooth? I would like to run my LRP X11 10.5 to begin.

I forgot to post a pic from the track of the local club I'll be driving for the beginning:


Do you think 1/12 pan car is a good choice for this type of surface? Just need to make sure
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Last edited by Pulse_; 12-28-2012 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:27 PM   #38905
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
CRC's also pick up some pretty decent results in the UK too, don't they Mr. Stiles?
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0

Congrats!
All down to the equipment; driving had nothing to do with it!
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:30 PM   #38906
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Ok, I just want a good basis to learn from the category first. Later, I'll think about being competitive. I'll take my time, it's the category I want to learn the most since I began the hobby.
I'm comparing different ESC and there are so many that it's hard to have a clear idea of what is a good compromise between features and price. I'm a smooth driver so I need something soft and progressive. Are there any ESC and motor out there that are know for being particularly smooth? I would like to run my LRP X11 10.5 to begin.

I forgot to post a pic from the track of the local club I'll be driving for the beginning:


Do you think 1/12 pan car is a good choice for this type of surface? Just need to make sure
A well driven 1/12 pan car will detsroy anything else round a track like that. Just stay off the markers or you'll be getting serious air time!

As has been mentioned, any link style car from the last 3-5 years will do just fine. The great thing about 1/12 scale is that it's a very slow class to evolve. So what's good now chassis wise will still be competitive in 3 seasons time. It's all down to meticulous preparation and smooth & consistent driving.

Regarding the motors question - I have found LRP motors to have quite a harsh bottom end when I've run them in the past. Good motors, but definitely have a distinct feel to them. The latest Reedy stuff has a much smoother power band in my opinion and I prefer how they feel at low to mid-range speeds.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:21 AM   #38907
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Ok, I just want a good basis to learn from the category first. Later, I'll think about being competitive. I'll take my time, it's the category I want to learn the most since I began the hobby.
I'm comparing different ESC and there are so many that it's hard to have a clear idea of what is a good compromise between features and price. I'm a smooth driver so I need something soft and progressive. Are there any ESC and motor out there that are know for being particularly smooth? I would like to run my LRP X11 10.5 to begin.

I forgot to post a pic from the track of the local club I'll be driving for the beginning:


Do you think 1/12 pan car is a good choice for this type of surface? Just need to make sure
Hello,

I drove on this track with my 1/12 when I was in Brussels.
With your 10.5T blinky or with timing there is no better choice there.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:54 AM   #38908
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That's exactly what I wanted to hear . Awesome, now I just need to find one with everything included for a good price!

Comparing a 12R5.1, CRC Gen XL, Xray XII and Top rebel do you have any preference? I might move to the Netherlands or northern Europe so I would like to have a car that many other drivers run.

Does any of you run a Spektrum H5020G servo eventually? It's a cheap servo for its specs
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:34 AM   #38909
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
That's exactly what I wanted to hear . Awesome, now I just need to find one with everything included for a good price!

Comparing a 12R5.1, CRC Gen XL, Xray XII and Top rebel do you have any preference? I might move to the Netherlands or northern Europe so I would like to have a car that many other drivers run.

Does any of you run a Spektrum H5020G servo eventually? It's a cheap servo for its specs
I have not driven the xray but have driven the other three, I found the AE car best for me and the TOP car the least well liked. That is just my personal opnion.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:11 PM   #38910
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I have not driven the xray but have driven the other three, I found the AE car best for me and the TOP car the least well liked. That is just my personal opnion.
It seems CRC and Associated are the most used cars so there are good chances I'll go for one of them.

As you know I'm looking for a complete used chassis and here is a proposition I got in pm:

- 12r5.1 + few parts + painted body + unpainted body
- s9650 servo
- 14 sets of jaco tires (purple, pink, double pink..) - the track is carpet so I need to make sure about the compound
- lrp sphere competition ESC
- quite old lipo but still working VTEC 4200mah
- 10 sets of P64 pinion

What do you think? Would this be a good basis? Is tere anything in the list that you wouldn't keep for a reason? For the motor I plan to use my X11 10.5. Thanks again for your help
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