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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-27-2012, 01:37 AM   #38881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
+1

Pulse
Check the link in my sig, for some "light" reading, into the Art of 12th scale racing
I already read it, I have it as a favorite in my search bar . Thanks for building such a complete ressource, it helped me a lot to learn from this category. To me parts availability isn't a problem considering I have to buy everything on internet anyway .

What are the most common "modern" 1/12 plateforms?
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:04 AM   #38882
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In the US you mostly see CRC's X series of the Carpet Knife and AE's RC12R5 series of cars. I also see Speedmerchants, TOPs, Serpents, On-Points and Xrays from time to time, as well as an occasional BMI. In Belgium I might expect to see lots of CRC's, AE's but possibly more V-Design's and Corally's, but that is pure speculation.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:59 AM   #38883
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What 1/10 motor would you recommend? I'd like to start with a 10.5.

Are GM motors any good? I'm looking for the smoothest motor I can find
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:42 AM   #38884
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
What are the strongest/ most reliable 1/12 cars available? I would like to begin this class and need your advice
[seemingly biased response] TOP Rebel 12 - i love this car. the front end is super easy to make right and keep running right. other 1/12th front ends can be nightmares to keep perfect.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:56 AM   #38885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
What 1/10 motor would you recommend? I'd like to start with a 10.5.

Are GM motors any good? I'm looking for the smoothest motor I can find
Any questions in the nature of
"Which is the best [insert brand name here] "
Will always be met with bias, especially on the interweb

Similar post appear every week on RC Tech

Fact is, there are at least 10 best brands of nearly everything you can think of
And twice that number for "motor of the week"

imo
If you have a local track, and experienced racers in you area
The quickest way to get up to speed, is to check out what they are doing
And ask questions
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:25 AM   #38886
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The 1/12 scene is VERY small, not to say inexistent around here that's why I'm here
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:29 AM   #38887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
The 1/12 scene is VERY small, not to say inexistent around here that's why I'm here
Here in Holland you see numerous motors. But I think you can't go wrong with a motor.
Only thing you should know is, that the X12 version of the LRP/Nosram motor is a motor that runs really hot. For example with 12th scale I run like 48mm rollout (13,5T Boosted) with the LRP X12, and 75mm rollout, on the same track with the Team Orion VST Motor (13,5T Boosted). I like the last motor best, but it's a personal feeling.

The Corally and LRP X12 motor's have a lot of natural "drag brake" in them which can make a 12th scale drive twitchy, and also loose corner speed. Motors like GM, LRP/Nosram X11, Team Orion, Speed Passion and so on, are much smoother and therefore tent to generate more corner speed.

But like RedBullFiXX say's, you can't go wrong on a motor if you ask me.

Regards Robert

Pulse shoot me an e-mail if you like, so maybe we can meet up here at a track in Holland or Belgium...
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:07 PM   #38888
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The 1/12 scene is VERY small, not to say inexistent around here that's why I'm here
How many km to race with RK in Holland
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:31 PM   #38889
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Depends on the motor and other things but usually right around 100mm for blinky.
Thanks Wingracer.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:01 PM   #38890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Here in Holland you see numerous motors. But I think you can't go wrong with a motor.
Only thing you should know is, that the X12 version of the LRP/Nosram motor is a motor that runs really hot. For example with 12th scale I run like 48mm rollout (13,5T Boosted) with the LRP X12, and 75mm rollout, on the same track with the Team Orion VST Motor (13,5T Boosted). I like the last motor best, but it's a personal feeling.

The Corally and LRP X12 motor's have a lot of natural "drag brake" in them which can make a 12th scale drive twitchy, and also loose corner speed. Motors like GM, LRP/Nosram X11, Team Orion, Speed Passion and so on, are much smoother and therefore tent to generate more corner speed.

But like RedBullFiXX say's, you can't go wrong on a motor if you ask me.

Regards Robert

Pulse shoot me an e-mail if you like, so maybe we can meet up here at a track in Holland or Belgium...
Thanks for the proposition, I will be more than happy to see a 1/12 running. I mailed the president of a local indoor club (funcar in Machelen) and he answered there were only two guys running this class and there's no race but I'll go there soon to meet the drivers. But I really want to run this class in particular, I'm thinking about it for too long . I spoke to some people from modelbouw forum in The Netherlands too, just to have an idea of the 1/12 scene.

I still have a X11 10.5 a friend gave me once, so he was right when he told me it was better than the X12 I feel so attracted to this class, I can't even explain why
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:46 PM   #38891
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I think for boosted, just about any motor can be made to run up front. It's all about speedo set-up. Blinky, Thunderpower, Reedy and D3.5 seem to dominate right now.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:05 PM   #38892
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Pulse,

You can run 12th in Mol at Nuclea Fun Drive, google nuclea RC and you will find more info, I'm going there this Sunday...
Drop me a note if you are coming and I 'll help you out!

At the fun drives there is usually about 10-15 12th scalers in both stock (10,5-Boosted or Mod)

Cheers from Limburg,

Niels
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:25 PM   #38893
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our local shop is putting down fresh new carpet from CRC. trying to find out what is a good tire combo for front and rear? want plenty of traction but don't want to much up front.

we are able to use traction compound. thanks again
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:19 AM   #38894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nilezb View Post
Pulse,

You can run 12th in Mol at Nuclea Fun Drive, google nuclea RC and you will find more info, I'm going there this Sunday...
Drop me a note if you are coming and I 'll help you out!

At the fun drives there is usually about 10-15 12th scalers in both stock (10,5-Boosted or Mod)

Cheers from Limburg,

Niels
Hi Niels,

I used to race in Mol once but in 1/8 buggy offroad (electric). The problem is..it's 2 hours away from where I live (Bruxelles) and I have no car. But it would be awesome to meet some 1/12 drivers!

What ESC do you typically run in racing? Could I use my 2s saddle packs but just using 1 saddle (=1 cell)?

I saw the Pro10 cars which look awesome too but I don't know what's the difference in cost. The advantage with the Pro10 is that I could run it on an outdoor track.

I forgot to mention I'm looking everywhere for this type of car used. I would need a chassis + body + parts + ESC + servo + lipos + tires. So if anyone has this and can ship it in Belgium, feel free to drop me a pm
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:26 AM   #38895
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Thanks for the proposition, I will be more than happy to see a 1/12 running. I mailed the president of a local indoor club (funcar in Machelen) and he answered there were only two guys running this class and there's no race but I'll go there soon to meet the drivers. But I really want to run this class in particular, I'm thinking about it for too long . I spoke to some people from modelbouw forum in The Netherlands too, just to have an idea of the 1/12 scene.

I still have a X11 10.5 a friend gave me once, so he was right when he told me it was better than the X12 I feel so attracted to this class, I can't even explain why

I've been driving at funcar for several years and trust me when i say that nuclea is by far a much better track for 1/12 scale racing.
The carpet at nuclea provides better grip (it's a high grip track) and the track layout is a lot better and bigger.
Besides, during the winter time it's freezing cold at funcar while nuclea is always nice.
At nuclea there are more guys that can help you out with 1/12 scale cars
I'm also a new driver to 1/12 scale chassis and i prefer to go to nuclea.

I've also tested a 13.5 X12 from LRP and the motor went ballistic hot, over 100C.
Didn't run it that long and with a normal gear ratio. I changed the X12 for a X11 10.5T motor and the motor didn't go higher then 60C.
The X11 is by far a better motor over a X12 motor for a 1/12 scale chassis.
Allthough i also have a Turnigy trackstar motor (costs less then half the price of a X12 or other recent developed motors) and runs great and has also motor timing like other recent motors.
The motor looks just like a Reedy brushless motor, but it's just silver colored and from what i've been reading the motor timing has a maximum of 40 and the Reedy has a maximum of 50 timing.
But not sure on that info.
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