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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-24-2012, 12:10 AM   #38851
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Here is our new track in Australia open 3 months ago and we run 10.5 and soon will run 17.5 as a feeder class.

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Old 12-24-2012, 09:40 AM   #38852
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Merry christmas from Corally! ;-)
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:28 PM   #38853
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Merry christmas from Corally! ;-)
That settles it, buying a Corally.

What kit does she come with?
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:17 PM   #38854
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That settles it, buying a Corally.

What kit does she come with?
Holy Moly, me too!

Merry Christmas.
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:40 PM   #38855
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Originally Posted by Team CRC View Post
Holy Moly, me too!

Merry Christmas.
Haha!

Merry Christmas from me also

:-)
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:26 PM   #38856
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It's interesting reading the discussion of motor specs in the US from an outsiders point of view. I was under the impression that 17.5, 13.5 and Mod were all common in the US, if not at every club, then at least at all the major meetings. What's the actual distribution like at club tracks?

It was a little surprising to see 21.5 mentioned, but then I looked up the CRC track, and it is really small compared to what I'm used to. The smallest track in NSW right now is the one at the top of the page!

I've done some work recently to get 10.5 blinky adopted by some clubs in Australia. We haven't had any spec 12th racing until now, and as a result 12th scale has been on life support with only the requirement to run it at States and Nationals for Worlds qualification keeping it alive at all. We're getting some traction with 10.5 though. When I was trying to work out what the motor format should be for spec 12th in Aus I read about racing in the US and in the UK. It seemed the UK tracks were larger than the US ones, so I erred towards their motor format. Now we call the 10.5 class Eurostock.

10.5 is about the right speed for most everyone at most of the places I've driven it. Occasionally I worry that I might have picked a format that's a little too slow when I'm driving around a 3m wide TC track, but I've got over a decade of driving experience, and those thoughts are fleeting. At the gooped up permanent carpet track at top of screen though, the class definitely feels faster than anywhere else, they carry more corner speed and the track is tighter, and not everyone is coping as well with 10.5 there as they do elsewhere. There are a larger portion of people attempting 12th there who've never driven a pan car before, and in many cases not driven anything faster than a 21.5 TC. This is why they are introducing a 17.5 class.

So, I guess what I'm saying is that from my limited experience in Aus, track size and grip levels play an important role in determining the right spec motor. The experience level of the drivers is also a very important factor. Mod 12th was only being driven by the best TC racers in the main, even on some of the largest tracks we have. Offering a slower class was necessary to bring in drivers who'd run Stock in other formats.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:30 PM   #38857
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Our outdoor track is good sized so we went with 13.5 blinky for 1/12th. Seems about the right speed
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:58 PM   #38858
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A 21.5 under one cell will make about 25 or 30 watts, theres just no element of terror in that.
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:28 AM   #38859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
In the early days of 17.5 blinky, the cars felt terribly slow. Lap time wise they were actually ok but with those motors and batteries, they just had no punch so they felt slower than snot. Now motors and batts have improved so not only are the lap times quick but they have a fairly quick feel to them as well. Feels a lot like my brushed days when we ran procar (21t) motors. Still not quite as punchy and fast feeling as 19t racing (I LOVED 19t with 4600 4 cell), though 13.5 will get you there.
Totally agree. For me 19T was the sweet spot for 4-cell. Enough power to have punch and speed, but not so fast that you needed the unobtainium batteries and reflexes of a cat to be competitive. Looking at dyno sheets it appears that a brushed 19T was about 185-190W and a brushless 13.5T is 200W. The chassis are better and lighter, but we are now on 3.7v, hence 13.5T would seem to be be a decent comparison.

Jon.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:08 AM   #38860
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Interesting discussion....

I got out of RC back in 2003 and had never really driven a 12th scale, but for half a season on a huge asphalt track running 6-cell Mod. When I got back into things, I started running 17.5 at my local carpet track and have enjoyed it immensely. One of the first things that I noticed was, even with the 17.5s, the cars felt faster to me than the old 6-cell Mod. Track size plays a huge role in the relative feeling of speed with the different turn motors... As does the amount and type of traction.

Since getting back into RC, I have raced 12th at 4 different tracks. My local carpet track, 2 local asphalt tracks(one temp parking lot setup, the other a permanent gas on-road track), and Vegas. 17.5 feels quick enough at my local carpet track. We use the black can Paragon only... and as grip builds, the cars get very edgy, which IMO lends itself to the "relative feeling of speed". At the local parking lot track, it felt slow, but not too bad. The track wasn't too big, but grip was low enough that you had to wait on the cars in the corner... so there was no feeling of speed, neither on the straights nor the turns.

At the larger permanent asphalt track, 17.5 felt terribly slow... that paint-drying feeling. This was with higher grip, too. You could just run pinned, literally everywhere.

When I went to Vegas this year, I ran 17.5 and 13.5. The track layout was similar in size and width to most of the layouts we run locally. One of the first things I noticed, however, was how smooth and easy to drive the cars felt using JTG. Even as the grip got higher, the cars never developed that edgy/twitchy feeling I am used to using Paragon. Coupled with a rather open layout this year, 17.5 felt a bit slower than what I am used to. 13.5 felt really good to me, like a perfect stock speed given the grip level and layout. Having just driven 13.5 the week prior for the first time at my local track, I remember thinking to myself "this would be way too fast for half of our Stock 12th racers"... yet at IIC, it felt very comfortable.

I think it is very difficult to judge what is or is not an appropriate speed for Stock 12th given that there are so many different variables.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:48 AM   #38861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Interesting discussion....
Having just driven 13.5 the week prior for the first time at my local track, I remember thinking to myself "this would be way too fast for half of our Stock 12th racers"... yet at IIC, it felt very comfortable.

I think it is very difficult to judge what is or is not an appropriate speed for Stock 12th given that there are so many different variables.
Happy Holidays, to my 12th scale extended familia

James
Agree on all points, except...

Any sauce on new rug feels smooth
New carpet at IIC is one of the main reasons I like that race so much

Nothing like 12th scale racing on new rug, with good comp, meeting cool racers from around the globe, and Scotty on the mic

13.5 SS is on the edge of my skill-set at our local track
Mod is fun, 17.5 is too
But 13.5 is imo, the best bang for the buck in this class

View of the pace at one of our recent Expert 13.5 races
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:22 PM   #38862
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JTG and SXT 3.0 never make a track get to the levels of traction we saw in the paragon days. This keeps the cars smoother for an entire event.

My home track has 2 year old carpet that grooves up pretty fast. Cars feels smooth there too.

I think the cars getting better, setups developing to make the most of order less sauce and blinky/smoother speedos have made 1/12 a very nice to drive, more fun class.

17.5 is good for beginners at most tracks, 13.5 is fun for us veterans and stepping up to Mod is more achievable than ever.
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:05 PM   #38863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
View of the pace at one of our recent Expert 13.5 races
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Gotta be my mind playing tricks on me. I was out a month ago with my old Trinity MCR, ROAR 91 27t brush on 4 cells, and I swear the speeds were close! (not the same track) Ok the speed down the straight wasn't quite there but through the corner speeds were similar. Maybe just wishful thinking. I doubt 2000 mAh through a 27t stock motor geared to make 8 minutes could actually run with those cars.



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Old 12-25-2012, 06:15 PM   #38864
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Happy Holidays, to my 12th scale extended familia

James
Agree on all points, except...

Any sauce on new rug feels smooth
New carpet at IIC is one of the main reasons I like that race so much

Nothing like 12th scale racing on new rug, with good comp, meeting cool racers from around the globe, and Scotty on the mic

13.5 SS is on the edge of my skill-set at our local track
Mod is fun, 17.5 is too
But 13.5 is imo, the best bang for the buck in this class

View of the pace at one of our recent Expert 13.5 races
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zk7lVfRnOAg&feature=player_embedded[YOUTUBE]
That's a good point and could very well be the case... Vegas was my first carpet race away from home and also my first race on a new rug and with Jack. I remember thinking to myself how awesome the cars felt on the surface.... very easy to drive.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:34 PM   #38865
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In the comparison of performance, when I got back into 1/12 in 2011 i was racing a older Trinity Monster Motor and 4300's against boosted 1s 13.5, and the performance was more than comparable. The boost gave the 13.5 a bit more squirt down the end of the straight after the stock/cells had run out of revs, but the brushed motor and extra volts had great acceleration. When I swapped out for a Stock Spec V2 and LRP X12 with a one cell, the car accelerated a little longer, but felt largely the same power wise.
Oh well, brushed and boosted are dead, I just think 17.5 is too slow for anything but straight beginners and 21.5 is way too slow.
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