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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-08-2003, 07:42 PM   #3871
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
I might be missing it, but... if your running a t-plate car, then your are using stapping tape

E
Here is a car that doesn't use strapping tape or rubber bands(o-rings) to hold the batteries in. I designed the Quad12 to be the best of both worlds. Inline batteries and a T-plate with damper tubes for smooth, consistent handling and the unique Cell Retention System for quick and easy battery changes between heats. Take a look.

D.P.
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Old 09-08-2003, 07:48 PM   #3872
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That was sorta half the joke. The other half being I have been pushing the rev. 3 and suggested against t-plate cars.

dpowell- very nice car. I was thinking about (and someone who ran a Rev. 3 in mod in NC at the nats actually talked about doing) a battery brace that bolts/held in by clips, but never acted upon it. The only tough thing, is that now the bodies are so slammed (the ascari espically) that it might to tough to fit a body over a mount such as that one. Also it probalby weighs half an oz to an oz more, although its not a big deal, every little bit helps.
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Old 09-08-2003, 08:05 PM   #3873
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The Ascari fits without a problem. The weight is a toss. I'm adding a few parts associated with the Cell Retention System but eliminating all the parts dealing with the damper discs.

D.P.
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Old 09-08-2003, 10:49 PM   #3874
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Arrow My ride ...

hi guys. just thought of posting some pics of my ride. it isnt anything special but i like it. its a bone stock RC12L3 (only added the in-line axles - i like tons of steering) but works real good at our ocal carpet track and i think im just as fast with it as the other 12th scale mod guys. ive only run it on two practice days - about 10 packs total and i think i can keep up with the rest of them. this saturday will be the true test since it will be my first big race with it. will be going up against other AEs, CKs, Yoks, and maybe a SP12M (if the guy shows up). hope i get a decent result.

put some time into the elctronics layout. i hate it when i've got wires everywhere. and the GT7 cap is a challenge since its so huge! but i think i came up with something pretty clean. i use a Futaba S132H servo on it (speed-0.13/60; torque 25oz/in) which is ok but will upgrade later on when budget permits. i run either a 9x2 Ti or 10x2 Kr on it and make about 9.5 mins of runtime with the GPs. if you find the sweet spot for the Kr, it is very fast! i was right there with a guy running a 8x2 D5 on a CK during a practice session last wednesday night. spring tension, gearing and brushes are the key. i use a blue AE sping for the center shock, 30wt oil, and red stuff on the damper disks. TRC purple fronts, gray rears, paragon, parma speed 8 body. here it is ....
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Old 09-08-2003, 10:50 PM   #3875
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Arrow ... another one

adjusted the flash, different angle....
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Old 09-08-2003, 11:42 PM   #3876
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Default Re: My ride ...

Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
hi guys. just thought of posting some pics of my ride. it isnt anything special but i like it. its a bone stock RC12L3 (only added the in-line axles - i like tons of steering) but works real good at our ocal carpet track and i think im just as fast with it as the other 12th scale mod guys. ive only run it on two practice days - about 10 packs total and i think i can keep up with the rest of them...
i can attest to this i went to the "roborat school of lapping" last saturday man, your 1/12 was really hooked and very fast - it made my chrome mod feel like a stock motor
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:02 AM   #3877
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Ok. Not real familar with that chassis.
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:37 AM   #3878
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ROBORAT - Looks nice. What kind of front axles are you running? I thought you need to use e-clips on the stock axles to hold the wheels on.
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Old 09-09-2003, 10:15 AM   #3879
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Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
Here is a car that doesn't use strapping tape or rubber bands(o-rings) to hold the batteries in. Cell Retention System for quick and easy battery changes between heats. Take a look.D.P.
DP... what are the parts used for the rentetion system, I think that would work on my knife by using a shorter strap.

Thanks,
E
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:20 AM   #3880
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Fike,
The Cell Retention System(CRS) on my Quad12 car consists of 3 aluminum posts, the carbon fiber battery strap itself, a new T-bar brace and 2 body clips. One end of the battery hold down strap has a keyhole shaped hole and slips over the first post. The strap slips over the other 2 posts and is held down with the body clips.
I machine the aluminum posts on my lathe and cut all the carbon fiber parts on my CNC mill. I'm also cutting silver carbon fiber chassis parts for some added bling.

D.P.
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:23 AM   #3881
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hey d powell nice car i sent pm message !

mark i got yours and sent one back.

i used to race a composite craft 10 scale linxs back in 89 and remember that the car actually felt more planted on asphalt than my t-plate car but the linkage were really unreliable so thats why i switched to an associated car due to that, i am sure crc and rev 3 took care of that.
pluss the tire technology today seems to hide the deficiancy of some cars, not that theres anything wrong with tplate cars its just todays cars are extremely good compared to the cars of the 80's and 90's. i think nobody makes a crappy car anymore they are actually capable of winning.

did i mention taping sucked! anybody want to donate a none taping car!
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Old 09-09-2003, 12:41 PM   #3882
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who makes the Quad12?
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Old 09-09-2003, 12:43 PM   #3883
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dpowell makes it. email him i am sure he'll take care of you.!
see doug i got you coverd!
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Old 09-09-2003, 12:55 PM   #3884
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speedxl,
Thanks for the help. I couldn't attach a picture to a PM. Here is the picture of the Quad12 Silver Edition chassis.

D.P.
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Old 09-09-2003, 12:56 PM   #3885
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i would like a chassis to start out with atleast for my yoke untill we talk ! is that possible over night !
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