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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-12-2012, 10:10 AM   #38761
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Hello everyone,

Over here in the UK we had R3 of our nationals last weekend. Some of you may already have seen a report on RedRC (here; http://www.redrc.net/2012/12/mark-st...d3/#more-60578) and other news sites.

You can view the results and also videos of all the finals from the weekend using the links below. The open modified final is a particularly good one to watch if you like a bit of horsepower!

Full results and standing will be available soon at;
http://www.brca.org/index.php?q=cont...nationals/1462

Videos of all finals can be viewed at the following YouTube channels;
Saturday: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list..._q7JUHM8kz4zMe
Sunday: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...XszoIyxPhzzln-
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:17 AM   #38762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sacky07 View Post
Hey all. im back in the hobby after about 8 year leave. I raced 2wd off raod trucks on a carpet track set up for off road. Im back now and dont have a clue about lipo and brushless. There is a local track that runs 1/12 scale and i recently bought an older CRC fror $35 on ebay. just needs radio. it has cells and brushed motor. I was going to use this to get the hang of 1/12scale. Ive also got a bare newer lipo chassis 1s too that I am going to build to the local track spec. "novak 17.5". how many li-po batteries am i going to need? what servo should i buy? Any recomendations on a charger for a li-po newbie?? what are the pros of this 2.4ghz? what basic car set-up tools do i need? Thanks alot.
Hello,

You shouldn't need more than a couple of lipos. They aren't anywhere near as sensitive to re-charging and re-use on the same days as sub-c cells used to be.

Most of the drivers I know use a Futaba S9650 servo, and most cars are designed to fit this. Airtronics/Sanwa have a really nice little servo out at the moment that some drivers are using.

2.4GHz is great! In its infancy there were issues with 'feel' and loss of signal, but now the creases have been ironed out they are great systems. No crystals, just plug and play! For me, a half decent 2.4GHz system is a far better option than almost any 40MHz one. I can recommend Sanwa stuff as being excellent to use; they have a range to suit most budgets.

Setup tools - A ride height gauge for measuring 3-6mm in small steps. A camber gauge. Allen and nut drivers to fit your car. That's about it!
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:51 AM   #38763
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Anyone tried this with their Tekin esc or other speedo? Works like a charm. Saves space and gives a good straight angle toward the motor. Saves weight also. Got the lightest car in the country
Small servo up front. Redesigned Xray X12. Best car I have ever owned. So nimble and easy to drive with this set up.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:40 PM   #38764
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Originally Posted by WRR View Post
Anyone tried this with their Tekin esc or other speedo? Works like a charm. Saves space and gives a good straight angle toward the motor. Saves weight also. Got the lightest car in the country
Small servo up front. Redesigned Xray X12. Best car I have ever owned. So nimble and easy to drive with this set up.
What chassis is that on your X12?
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:52 PM   #38765
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Hi guys,

I decided to get new servo for new year, and it recommended to use 7.4v lipo receiver pack instead of 6.6v life. Will receiver/transponder be ok if I plug 7.4v direct into receiver? Servo Iím getting is Sanwa SRG-HR and I have Sanwa 451 receiver and AMB transponder.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:53 PM   #38766
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Originally Posted by Rampokker View Post
What chassis is that on your X12?
I did the design myself. Just copied the outlines and gave it two braces on each side to hold the battery in place. Moved the two posts to the center. One on each side of the battery and mad a brace between them that keep the lipo stuck to the chassis. The shock is placed on that same brace. Just undo two 12mm screws from underneath to loosen the battery. Takes me about 20 seconds to switch lipos.
Skipped the cutouts between front axles so strong tape keep the servo in place. One ear left on servo to secure it properly.

The car has some more flex than stock so I have got amazing high speed cornering thanks to the cutouts on the sides. 14 grams lighter overall.

Naked shots of it some pages back.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:38 PM   #38767
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12th scale often gets a bad wrap for not having "scale Looking" cars. I think some of the newer bodies lend themselves to replicating some of the real cars in the Endurace Racing Championship and LeMans though.

Does anyone have any examples they'd care to post up?
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:28 AM   #38768
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Originally Posted by H I View Post
Hi guys,

I decided to get new servo for new year, and it recommended to use 7.4v lipo receiver pack instead of 6.6v life. Will receiver/transponder be ok if I plug 7.4v direct into receiver? Servo Iím getting is Sanwa SRG-HR and I have Sanwa 451 receiver and AMB transponder.
If you're using a 7.4V receiver pack you'll need a voltage regulator too, as the radio systems work off a 6V supply.

Personally I use a voltage booster. Same size as an rx pack, but lighter, you don't need a regulator and it's fit and forget - no charging required! See here for the one I use, it's very good! - http://rcdynamics.co.uk/
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:25 AM   #38769
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, new Corally chassis is coming! Check out www.corally.com for more details.

Cheers!
Had a total WTF moment when I scrolled down too far looking at the new car. The next item after the 12th is a new geared diff. I thought Corally had gone crazy for a moment.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:23 AM   #38770
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Originally Posted by Mark Stiles View Post
If you're using a 7.4V receiver pack you'll need a voltage regulator too, as the radio systems work off a 6V supply.

Personally I use a voltage booster. Same size as an rx pack, but lighter, you don't need a regulator and it's fit and forget - no charging required! See here for the one I use, it's very good! - http://rcdynamics.co.uk/
You can run a LiPo pack just fine without a regulator, both the receiver and transponder are made for it. Its only side effect is a faster servo.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:25 AM   #38771
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Had a total WTF moment when I scrolled down too far looking at the new car. The next item after the 12th is a new geared diff. I thought Corally had gone crazy for a moment.
Not as crazy as you think, 1/12 with a gear diff used to be quite common.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:39 AM   #38772
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Originally Posted by WRR View Post
Anyone tried this with their Tekin esc or other speedo? Works like a charm. Saves space and gives a good straight angle toward the motor. Saves weight also. Got the lightest car in the country
Small servo up front. Redesigned Xray X12. Best car I have ever owned. So nimble and easy to drive with this set up.
Looks cool but you may have a problem depending on what you run. On a Tekin esc the solder posts function as heat sinks for the FET's. If you take them out the speedo will run hotter. This may not be an issue indoors running 17.5 or 13.5 blinky but will be an issue if you run Boosted or Mod....yeah, I know, no one runs mod with a Tekin....lol!
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:43 PM   #38773
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Not as crazy as you think, 1/12 with a gear diff used to be quite common.
I know. For a second I thought Corally had gone back to the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Looks cool but you may have a problem depending on what you run. On a Tekin esc the solder posts function as heat sinks for the FET's. If you take them out the speedo will run hotter. This may not be an issue indoors running 17.5 or 13.5 blinky but will be an issue if you run Boosted or Mod....yeah, I know, no one runs mod with a Tekin....lol!
If you're having any glitching problems this layout will make them worse too. I'm more sensitive to this because I still run frequency, but I helped a fellow racer on 2.4 GHz with problems recently. Putting the capacitors next to the receiver is particularly bad.

If you're car is under control at all times then that layout is probably great. Just be aware if you do have issues the first thing you should do is separate the electronics.
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:49 PM   #38774
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Thanks guys for that info. Don't have any issues with either heat or glitches so I will keep on rocking this layout
Run 13.5 boosted but we will run 10.5 blinky next season. Slow adapters over here ha ha.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:09 PM   #38775
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
You can run a LiPo pack just fine without a regulator, both the receiver and transponder are made for it. Its only side effect is a faster servo.
Cool, Thanks for the info. Pretty sure faster servo is the reason Sanwa recommending 7.4v
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