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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-11-2012, 07:18 AM   #38746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BardSmith View Post
I race the serpent s120LT. Its a great build, tight, and wonderful quality. Its also fast and smooth around the track. Its easy to tune. Serpent.com has a number of racers' setup sheets to use. High recommended. I just picked up the S120LTX. Looking for to burnin up the rug with it.
Bought it, Built it, Love it!!! Racing it tonight in blinky, looking to go to mod soon. Momma speed is calling!
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:18 AM   #38747
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Was out at the local track last night that runs 17.5 blinky. small course 8.1sec is a great lap. With my old 1998? 12l3 I was running 9.5sec on 4 cell unmatched 4200s with 27t stock handout motor. This was also my first time running 1/12 in about 4 years.

Now I am just going out the odd time to practice and maybe race if I have the time off work to go.

For those racing 1/12 a long time - would a BMI BD12rr or GENXL make a big difference? (yes lots of deals on these older - but newer than mine cars)

The tech in 1/12 is not that much different over the years we are talking like .25sec per lap on a CLEAN run .. if you cant keep clean for 6min or dont care to spend the $$ for the .25sec.. I should be good no?
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:18 AM   #38748
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Was out at the local track last night that runs 17.5 blinky. small course 8.1sec is a great lap. With my old 1998? 12l3 I was running 9.5sec on 4 cell unmatched 4200s with 27t stock handout motor. This was also my first time running 1/12 in about 4 years.

Now I am just going out the odd time to practice and maybe race if I have the time off work to go.

For those racing 1/12 a long time - would a BMI BD12rr or GENXL make a big difference? (yes lots of deals on these older - but newer than mine cars)

The tech in 1/12 is not that much different over the years we are talking like .25sec per lap on a CLEAN run .. if you cant keep clean for 6min or dont care to spend the $$ for the .25sec.. I should be good no?
Well its really up to you but lets take your numbers and do some math, 6mins(not sure why your track is running 6 min instead of the normal 8min) at 8.1 a lap is just over 44 laps. Your 9.5 per lap equals just under 38 laps a difference of a lap per min. Now I dont know about you but it sucks to be constantly pulling over for the leaders as I'm being lapped every couple of laps. Something else to consider is that you may not be able to "race" unless your running 1s, that will depend on how strick your track runs its program.

Only you can decide if its worth it in the long run.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:27 AM   #38749
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Its interesting how much faster 1s 17.5 is than 4 cell 27T. I am sure with some effort the 4 cell car could close a little of the gap but probably not 1.4 sec per lap.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:07 AM   #38750
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Back when LiPo came onto the scene we found a well tuned 4 cell 27T (Good matched batts and a freshly cut/tuned 27T) would be considerably faster than a 1S 17.5 car back ~ 4 years ago.

Batteries, ESCs, and Motors have improved on the 1S side, but a good 27T and some hot batteries should blow a 17.5 away on the straights and coming out of the corners. At least for the first 4 minutes of the run And that's the thing - with little work a 1S 17.5 will run awesome and consistent run after run. To get a 27T to be competitive with it, you'll be rebuilding the motor every run and using fresh matched packs.

Just had shivers thinking of the days of worrying about your pack dumping in the last 30 seconds of a run, comm true'n, waiting to peak the batteries just minutes before the start of the race... And if the race was delayed "I need to re-peak!" Don't miss that at all!
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:29 AM   #38751
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On both of my CRC axles, the diff ring does not 'snap' into place but has a little freedom of movement in every direction, and this means that in break-in and running the rings move and dont wear a seated ball grove, but more of a wide polished area... meaning it never really breaks in. This is okay for blinky, but without that grove the diff needs to be quite tighter than I like in order to hold under higher power. Other axle makers, like Serpent, have a good tight hold on the rings and produce axles with great hold, just not mine. Would it be prudent to glue the rings directly to the ring seats? Not permanently, just to take the play out of it so i can get good a good ball-ring grove which can take the power.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:36 AM   #38752
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Quote:
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On both of my CRC axles, the diff ring does not 'snap' into place but has a little freedom of movement in every direction, and this means that in break-in and running the rings move and dont wear a seated ball grove, but more of a wide polished area... meaning it never really breaks in. This is okay for blinky, but without that grove the diff needs to be quite tighter than I like in order to hold under higher power. Other axle makers, like Serpent, have a good tight hold on the rings and produce axles with great hold, just not mine. Would it be prudent to glue the rings directly to the ring seats? Not permanently, just to take the play out of it so i can get good a good ball-ring grove which can take the power.
We used to use a little 3M weatherstrip adhesive. The yellow kind seams to set up faster. You can pick it up at most auto part stores.

Last edited by RCW; 12-11-2012 at 10:38 AM. Reason: a
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:15 AM   #38753
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Back when LiPo came onto the scene we found a well tuned 4 cell 27T (Good matched batts and a freshly cut/tuned 27T) would be considerably faster than a 1S 17.5 car back ~ 4 years ago.

Batteries, ESCs, and Motors have improved on the 1S side, but a good 27T and some hot batteries should blow a 17.5 away on the straights and coming out of the corners. At least for the first 4 minutes of the run And that's the thing - with little work a 1S 17.5 will run awesome and consistent run after run. To get a 27T to be competitive with it, you'll be rebuilding the motor every run and using fresh matched packs.

Just had shivers thinking of the days of worrying about your pack dumping in the last 30 seconds of a run, comm true'n, waiting to peak the batteries just minutes before the start of the race... And if the race was delayed "I need to re-peak!" Don't miss that at all!
Now we run boosted 5.0 motors in Mod 12 and drive full tilt for 8 minutes with no fear of dumping
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:07 PM   #38754
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.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 12-12-2012 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:51 PM   #38755
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I am hoping that PF's new 12th includes them as it's now a ROAR requirement. RCTrim talked about making them around the time of last years carpet nats, but I haven't seen anything tailor made for 12th, just lights "made" to work.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:09 AM   #38756
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I'd be happy if CRC included window masks with the Black Art bodies.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:22 AM   #38757
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Hi guys, new Corally chassis is coming! Check out www.corally.com for more details.

Cheers!
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:31 AM   #38758
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Here's my pit space pic from our UK National meeting over the past weekend:

How come no matter how tidy you start the day, it always ends up in chaos?!
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:40 AM   #38759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
I'd be happy if CRC included window masks with the Black Art bodies.
I was bummed as well.. But, I took a Piece of Vinyl and traced the windows with tracing paper and cut my own masks... Worked great!
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:53 AM   #38760
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Hey all. im back in the hobby after about 8 year leave. I raced 2wd off raod trucks on a carpet track set up for off road. Im back now and dont have a clue about lipo and brushless. There is a local track that runs 1/12 scale and i recently bought an older CRC fror $35 on ebay. just needs radio. it has cells and brushed motor. I was going to use this to get the hang of 1/12scale. Ive also got a bare newer lipo chassis 1s too that I am going to build to the local track spec. "novak 17.5". how many li-po batteries am i going to need? what servo should i buy? Any recomendations on a charger for a li-po newbie?? what are the pros of this 2.4ghz? what basic car set-up tools do i need? Thanks alot.
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