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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-07-2012, 04:34 PM   #38716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I have a turnigy Servo in my 1/12th I forget the model # but it's .08 @ 4.8V and .06 @ 6V and other than a louder than normal buzz at center it's great. Centers perfectly and metal gears with zero play. Ran it all last year and this year so far.

Could you find out the model #?
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:11 PM   #38717
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Here is the plastic gear version of the one I have I can;t seem to find it on their site for the metal geared

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...8kg_0_07s.html


And it's hobbyking branded that I have not turnigy sorry. Mine is a red case same model number just with a MG at the end
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:14 PM   #38718
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here is the updated verision of mine http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...08sec_26g.html
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:58 PM   #38719
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The output shaft looks to be in a odd place where you able to center it ok in the chassis?
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:14 PM   #38720
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here is the updated verision of mine http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...08sec_26g.html
Thanks for that. One more question, what servo saver will fit it?
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:30 PM   #38721
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The Spectrum H5020G specs show it to be wicked fast at 0.05s/6v however when I looked at a setup sheet from the Viper ESC website it showed the servo BEC set at only 5v (the VTX1 goes up to 5.5v). So my question is, why would you not want the servo to be as fast as possible? Is there a situation where a steering servo can be too fast?

Also the H5020G is rated at 33oz/in@4.8v and 39oz/in@6v. Is this enough torque?

Jon.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:30 PM   #38722
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It's gor Futaba splines
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:37 PM   #38723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gti5notrkt View Post
The Spectrum H5020G specs show it to be wicked fast at 0.05s/6v however when I looked at a setup sheet from the Viper ESC website it showed the servo BEC set at only 5v (the VTX1 goes up to 5.5v). So my question is, why would you not want the servo to be as fast as possible? Is there a situation where a steering servo can be too fast?

Also the H5020G is rated at 33oz/in@4.8v and 39oz/in@6v. Is this enough torque?

Jon.
I can tell you that a KO 951 running on a lipo rx pack is the first servo I've ever used the servo speed function on my radio to slow down. It was so fast I ended up replacing it with the modestly spec'd Futaba 9650. With the advent of 1s speedos with built in boosters, I may end up going back.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:43 PM   #38724
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What you guy`s think of my new painted body for my crc. Do i need the extra downfore spoiler that came with it?



EDIt that should fix it

Last edited by djiewie; 12-08-2012 at 02:37 PM. Reason: picture not showing
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:19 PM   #38725
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Can't see it...no pic posted.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:39 PM   #38726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gti5notrkt View Post
The Spectrum H5020G specs show it to be wicked fast at 0.05s/6v however when I looked at a setup sheet from the Viper ESC website it showed the servo BEC set at only 5v (the VTX1 goes up to 5.5v). So my question is, why would you not want the servo to be as fast as possible? Is there a situation where a steering servo can be too fast?

Also the H5020G is rated at 33oz/in@4.8v and 39oz/in@6v. Is this enough torque?

Jon.
BEC/Boosters that are built into a speedo have to be as small as possible. The higher the voltage and amp output the bigger the booster has to be to be reliable. 5-5.5v boosters that supply 1-2A are easier to package inside a speedo.

For pan car applications there is no such thing as a servo that is too fast. Servo speed lets you make corrections mid corner that you could not achieve with a slow servo.

If you are jittery or your car is unstable you can add 10-15% negative exponential to your radio to make your steering feel smoother right off center. Most mid to top grade radios will allow you slow a servo down but for 1/12th or WGT this is not a good idea and usually is done to cover up a driver or setup problem. Its better to address the root cause, a driver with the shakes, or a poor setup that is excessively responsive off center (too stiff side springs, too heavy side damping, etc).

The H5020G had more than enough torque. A Kimborough servo saver will deflect at way less than 30 in/oz of torque. I can grab my wheels and force them left and right deflecting the servo saver and my 5020 doesn't budge.

There are cases when a servo could be too fast like rubber tire sedan and off road racing. A servo that is too fast can move a rubber tire too fast for it to maintain traction. Servos much faster than .09 sec are not useful in these applications. Our foam tires do not have these issues and faster servos generally enhance our levels of control.

This is a new ground as only in the last year or so have mini servos been available to us capable of these speeds. Many of the racers here are just sticking with what they know Futaba 9650, Spektrum 5010, Airtroincs 94761, etc. However, we have better alternatives now.

Also, when it come to toughness the H5020G is a Heli Tail Rotor servo meant to be driven by a Digital Gyro. It is designed to center and actuate more precisely, deal with more inputs per second and dissipate heat levels far beyond anything it will experience in a R/C car.
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Last edited by AdrianM; 12-09-2012 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:54 PM   #38727
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So the Airtronics 94819 would work as well and be a cheaper alternativ?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:18 PM   #38728
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So the Airtronics 94819 would work as well and be a cheaper alternativ?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo

It's kind of funny shaped compared to the standard servos, but spec wise looks like it would work. It might just be hard to mount with anything other than servo tape or shoe-goo.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:24 PM   #38729
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
It's kind of funny shaped compared to the standard servos, but spec wise looks like it would work. It might just be hard to mount with anything other than servo tape or shoe-goo.
I have a 94819 mounted in my CRC Xi.
Used the standard mounts normal install.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:03 PM   #38730
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Originally Posted by Jeppi View Post
So the Airtronics 94819 would work as well and be a cheaper alternativ?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo
It looks fine but has plastic gears. It would probably be ok. The 94815 might be a better choice. It's is low torque but I bet it would still be fine and has metal gears.
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