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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-30-2012, 10:56 AM   #38671
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
.Cool build though
nice to see the hobby aspect of 12th scale is alive and well
I miss the days of building cars from fiberglass and plywood!
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:08 AM   #38672
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I miss the days of building cars from fiberglass and plywood!
I miss watching Lucas whittle pieces of delrin and carbon into works of art
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:10 PM   #38673
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I miss watching Lucas whittle pieces of delrin and carbon into works of art
+1 He had some of the most interesting cars I've ever seen.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:15 PM   #38674
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Hey guys. I just purchased a Serpent S120LT and noticed that Serpent did away with the thrust bearing in the diff for this model... I noticed that the S120L had the thrust in it with a slightly different washer. What should I do? Should I setup my rear end with the original thrust bearing setup or this new Cone spacer/ washer setup? Thanks
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:52 PM   #38675
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Hey guys. I just purchased a Serpent S120LT and noticed that Serpent did away with the thrust bearing in the diff for this model... I noticed that the S120L had the thrust in it with a slightly different washer. What should I do? Should I setup my rear end with the original thrust bearing setup or this new Cone spacer/ washer setup? Thanks
You'll have a hard time finding all the parts for the thrust washer set up. You can substitute the Slapmaster one or use the cone washer, both will work very well.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:11 PM   #38676
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Recently an on-road track opened up a convenient distance away and so after a 16yr hiatus I am about to pull the trigger on a new set of 1/12 equipment. I will be running 17.5T blinky and maybe a small amount of 13.5T on a 80x40 CRC carpet. I have already sourced;

Tekin RS w/hotwire
Revtech Putnam 17.5T with tuned rotor/ceramic brgs
Trinity D3 13.5T tuned
Sanwa SRG-HR servo
Fasst radio/AMB

I therefore am faced with two key sourcing decisions;

Batteries;
I see the brand name lipos selling for $60-80ea, 5400-6800mAhr and 50-100c. What should I be looking for 17.5T? I don't want to be buying different batteries for 13.5T. How many packs, 2?

Chassis;
Narrowed this down to the RC12r5.2 or Serpent L120 ltx. In the early 90's I ran associated and had a hard time with consistency. When is was fast it was a dream, but the tuning envelope was fairly narrow for a bottom half of a club race A-main type runner like me. I switched to a Corally SP12G and got a far more consistent ride albeit at maybe slightly less raw speed.

Are the Associated and Serpent equally easy to tune? Cost of the chassis is not the main concern. Durability and ease of tuning/maintenance is. I'm leaning towards the Serpent as I think the engineering quality is superb.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Jon.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:33 PM   #38677
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Don't forget...your going to need a voltage booster or receiver pack with the RS.
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:46 PM   #38678
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Originally Posted by gti5notrkt View Post
Recently an on-road track opened up a convenient distance away and so after a 16yr hiatus I am about to pull the trigger on a new set of 1/12 equipment. I will be running 17.5T blinky and maybe a small amount of 13.5T on a 80x40 CRC carpet. I have already sourced;

Tekin RS w/hotwire
Revtech Putnam 17.5T with tuned rotor/ceramic brgs
Trinity D3 13.5T tuned
Sanwa SRG-HR servo
Fasst radio/AMB

I therefore am faced with two key sourcing decisions;

Batteries;
I see the brand name lipos selling for $60-80ea, 5400-6800mAhr and 50-100c. What should I be looking for 17.5T? I don't want to be buying different batteries for 13.5T. How many packs, 2?

Chassis;
Narrowed this down to the RC12r5.2 or Serpent L120 ltx. In the early 90's I ran associated and had a hard time with consistency. When is was fast it was a dream, but the tuning envelope was fairly narrow for a bottom half of a club race A-main type runner like me. I switched to a Corally SP12G and got a far more consistent ride albeit at maybe slightly less raw speed.

Are the Associated and Serpent equally easy to tune? Cost of the chassis is not the main concern. Durability and ease of tuning/maintenance is. I'm leaning towards the Serpent as I think the engineering quality is superb.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Jon.
All of the 1s link cars work about the same, especially in 17.5, where handling far exceeds power output
Even cars from a few years ago are competitive today
Every car is dialed to go, no bad 12th scales

However, each car has it's unique little features/idiosyncrasies, that's the fun part

Any lipo pack with 5000mah will suffice for all but mod
The higher mah batteries will have a higher voltage curve throughout the run, and it's why most racers just go with 6500+ even for 17.5
2 packs for racing should be fine

Check the 12th scale info link in my sig for tons more info
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:34 PM   #38679
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From the cars I've seen the Serpent has the best build quality, it's just a whole heap tighter, which would help consistency. There is nothing wrong with the Associated car though.
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:02 AM   #38680
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70% through my Serpent S120lt build and all I can say is WOW! So far best build I have had, and I've owned alot of different cars... Only problem I will have is support, as alot of people do not drive them, kinda like my Durango cars. But I enjoy finding setups, and parts lol no biggie.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:39 AM   #38681
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Originally Posted by gti5notrkt View Post
Recently an on-road track opened up a convenient distance away and so after a 16yr hiatus I am about to pull the trigger on a new set of 1/12 equipment. I will be running 17.5T blinky and maybe a small amount of 13.5T on a 80x40 CRC carpet. I have already sourced;

Tekin RS w/hotwire
Revtech Putnam 17.5T with tuned rotor/ceramic brgs
Trinity D3 13.5T tuned
Sanwa SRG-HR servo
Fasst radio/AMB

I therefore am faced with two key sourcing decisions;

Batteries;
I see the brand name lipos selling for $60-80ea, 5400-6800mAhr and 50-100c. What should I be looking for 17.5T? I don't want to be buying different batteries for 13.5T. How many packs, 2?

Chassis;
Narrowed this down to the RC12r5.2 or Serpent L120 ltx. In the early 90's I ran associated and had a hard time with consistency. When is was fast it was a dream, but the tuning envelope was fairly narrow for a bottom half of a club race A-main type runner like me. I switched to a Corally SP12G and got a far more consistent ride albeit at maybe slightly less raw speed.

Are the Associated and Serpent equally easy to tune? Cost of the chassis is not the main concern. Durability and ease of tuning/maintenance is. I'm leaning towards the Serpent as I think the engineering quality is superb.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Jon.

As mentioned you will need a booster or RX pack, personaly you will only need one batt pack but having a spare is not a bad idea. I have the serpent car and your correct the quality of the componets is on par with BMI and IMO those two are well above the rest in that department. But as mentioned all the kits on the market are solid and can win any given race with the right setup and driving skill.

One thought, as you've been out of the game for abit you were likely driving a t-bar car then and almost all of todays cars are a link style design. Like you I ran 1/12th back in the 80's and then dropped out for a while so going to link cars was a change for me that I really cannot get used to. Its not the cars but just that I like the feel of driving a t-bar car, thay are just more consistant for me. Thats whay I still run the BMI car more than any other car I've tried, and I've tried all of them except for the newest CRC and Speedmerchant; just food for thought.
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:12 PM   #38682
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
All of the 1s link cars work about the same, especially in 17.5, where handling far exceeds power output
Even cars from a few years ago are competitive today
Every car is dialed to go, no bad 12th scales
Is 1S lipo 17.5 comparable to 4-cell NiCad with 27 turn stock motor from back in the day? I last raced my Trinity Magic Carpet Ride some 12-13 years ago but recently I took it out to a carpet track with all the vintage equipment still in it, (4-cell Sayno 1800 SCRCs, Novak 410 Hpc, Reedy Firehawk 27 turn ROAR 91 brushed motor) and I think I'm hooked again.

I have been looking at the CRC Xti and the Serpent S120LT to get into this millenium as far as equipment goes. My MCR (and also an AE 12L something I have) is a t-bar chassis so trying to fit a lipo would be a challenge.



The body I ran didn't have much downforce but traction wasn't really an issue with 4 cell stock. The racing was really close and sometimes brutal hence the enormous front bumper and the side guards. The body is pretty beat up from some of our "battles".



Anyway, I'm interested in building a new car and starting out at or near the same speed as I used to race. Which would be closer, 1s 17.5 or 2s 25.5 perhaps?



Sean
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:17 PM   #38683
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Anyway, I'm interested in building a new car and starting out at or near the same speed as I used to race. Which would be closer, 1s 17.5 or 2s 25.5 perhaps?

Sean
Nice Paragon wheels there !

1s 17.5 no timing (aka Blinky) is the most popular 12th scale class in the US
This could be considered the new 4cell 27T class
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:26 PM   #38684
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Both Hobbywing and Viper have 1s speed controls that work very well. Take a look at what the locals are running and don't be afraid to ask questions.

chuck
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:36 PM   #38685
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Nice Paragon wheels there !
Haha, and look at all that foam on 'em! I can crank the preload up and run the off-road track!

Quote:
1s 17.5 no timing (aka Blinky) is the most popular 12th scale class in the US
This could be considered the new 4cell 27T class
Thanks.



Sean
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