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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-18-2012, 03:49 PM   #38596
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Whats the preferred rotor setup for 1s 13.5 blinky racing? Standard, high torque 12.3 or high torque 12.5? I have TP Z3R and a Trinity D3 13.5 to try out.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:43 PM   #38597
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Whats a good road car, new or used for a beginner to start out with? I'll be racing ozite in the winter and asphalt in the summer. Since its ozite time tire recomendations would be great also. Thanks.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:40 AM   #38598
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I made this to my Xray X12 to make it as inline as possible except for battery position plus I hate using tape to fasten the battery.
So I milled my own chassis with three new additional braces to fix the battery. Two on the sides and one right over the top center of the pack. The top brace unscrews from the bottom to release the battery. I used 10mm aluscrews so no need to loosen them complacently. Underneath the top brace I used high density foam with a double sided tape fixing it. It all works like a charm and mu chassis weighs 15grams less than stock. despite more parts!
Then I used a Sanwa SRG-HR servo in between the front wheels. The Tekin RS and Rx fits inline the center of the car now. Got a 45/55 weight ration front to back. Loving it

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Old 11-19-2012, 07:17 AM   #38599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRR View Post
I made this to my Xray X12 to make it as inline as possible except for battery position plus I hate using tape to fasten the battery.
So I milled my own chassis with three new additional braces to fix the battery. Two on the sides and one right over the top center of the pack. The top brace unscrews from the bottom to release the battery. I used 10mm aluscrews so no need to loosen them complacently. Underneath the top brace I used high density foam with a double sided tape fixing it. It all works like a charm and mu chassis weighs 15grams less than stock. despite more parts!
Then I used a Sanwa SRG-HR servo in between the front wheels. The Tekin RS and Rx fits inline the center of the car now. Got a 45/55 weight ration front to back. Loving it

Very cool. I like the looks of it.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:27 AM   #38600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MWShelton View Post
Whats a good road car, new or used for a beginner to start out with? I'll be racing ozite in the winter and asphalt in the summer. Since its ozite time tire recomendations would be great also. Thanks.
All the current 12th scale cars are great
If you're starting out, check to see what are the more popular cars at your local club
It's easier to get rolling when you can hit up the local fast guys for info about what works at your track

Click HERE for more info
---------------------------
Nice ride WRR
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:15 AM   #38601
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Looks great...nice job WRR!
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:52 PM   #38602
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Thanks inspector Pretty happy with it.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:16 PM   #38603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Whats the preferred rotor setup for 1s 13.5 blinky racing? Standard, high torque 12.3 or high torque 12.5? I have TP Z3R and a Trinity D3 13.5 to try out.
With the TP motor, just stick with the red rotor. Going to the higher torque rotors seem to fade off more towards the end of a run. Set your timing around 35 and a rollout between 85-90mm and let her rip!
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:29 PM   #38604
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It's funny how all of these new kits seem to have laydown servos. My favorite car that I own is a CRC Gen-XL, and in its steering setup I went for elimination of bump steer with the stand-up servo, and I have it pretty close... but with these new laydown servo setups you can't get there. Doesn't bump-steer make a car twitchy? Especially bump toe-in, as in your hardest steering with the most front suspension compression, it would try to turn even more and take ackerman out of the car instead of how zero pump or even bump toe-out would try to make the car corner more softly with hopefully more predictable movements...

Am I nuts for questioning the trend?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:34 PM   #38605
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
It's funny how all of these new kits seem to have laydown servos. My favorite car that I own is a CRC Gen-XL, and in its steering setup I went for elimination of bump steer with the stand-up servo, and I have it pretty close... but with these new laydown servo setups you can't get there. Doesn't bump-steer make a car twitchy? Especially bump toe-in, as in your hardest steering with the most front suspension compression, it would try to turn even more and take ackerman out of the car instead of how zero pump or even bump toe-out would try to make the car corner more softly with hopefully more predictable movements...

Am I nuts for questioning the trend?
You are not nuts. If you use the middle holes on the servo saver, have your ride height right and shim up your spindle ball studs you will get little to no bump toe.

The trend for lay down servos is mostly about lowering the CG.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:35 PM   #38606
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Originally Posted by WRR View Post
So I milled my own chassis with three new additional braces to fix the battery. Two on the sides and one right over the top center of the pack.
Very nice. I am using Yokomo R12 and constrainted by the roll shocks.

For me, I just milled 0.5mm off from the botton chassis and use velcro strap.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:42 PM   #38607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
It's funny how all of these new kits seem to have laydown servos. My favorite car that I own is a CRC Gen-XL, and in its steering setup I went for elimination of bump steer with the stand-up servo, and I have it pretty close... but with these new laydown servo setups you can't get there. Doesn't bump-steer make a car twitchy? Especially bump toe-in, as in your hardest steering with the most front suspension compression, it would try to turn even more and take ackerman out of the car instead of how zero pump or even bump toe-out would try to make the car corner more softly with hopefully more predictable movements...

Am I nuts for questioning the trend?
Frankly, you've always been a bit off.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:49 AM   #38608
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Desert...the closer you can get the steering links to level with the ground the less bump steer you will have. You may need to move the ball studs down on the servo saver and space up the ball studs on the steering knuckle.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:25 AM   #38609
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Actually the turnbuckles need to be parallel with the upper arms to eliminate bump steer. It is close to impossible to eliminate bump steer with a flat servo but you can get get it close to gone with taller ball studs on the steering spindles.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:56 PM   #38610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
You are not nuts. If you use the middle holes on the servo saver, have your ride height right and shim up your spindle ball studs you will get little to no bump toe.

The trend for lay down servos is mostly about lowering the CG.
CG is important, true that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Frankly, you've always been a bit off.
If you thought my old XL car was weird before, you should see it now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Desert...the closer you can get the steering links to level with the ground the less bump steer you will have. You may need to move the ball studs down on the servo saver and space up the ball studs on the steering knuckle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Actually the turnbuckles need to be parallel with the upper arms to eliminate bump steer. It is close to impossible to eliminate bump steer with a flat servo but you can get get it close to gone with taller ball studs on the steering spindles.
On cars with long front arms without any real angle to them such as the Associated front end, it seems fairly simple to get the bump-steer out of it by making the angle the same. Other cars, such as the new CRC XTI, have very short upper arms with lots of angle built into them. Somehow this doesn't seem to matter very much, as the bump-steering is XTI is laying down the law at the IIC, the Halloween Classic, and other races with this front end. Kudos to Knapp and Tortorice and the rest of the CRC crew. Also, Knapp ran the fastest single lap of the 1/12 modified A-main at the IIC... so I evidence is mounting that I really don't know shit.

(note: Tortorice won 17.5 at the IIC with a stand-up servo in a Xi chassis)
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