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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-12-2012, 03:24 AM   #38566
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Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Thanks, but no. A cap is a soft rubber sleeve glued over the top of a foam tyre with flexible contact adhesive.

Here is a guide in Dutch, and for a Pro-10: http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/...tire-caps.html
Interesting concept. The first thing that come to my mind is to use Bicycle inner tube.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:33 AM   #38567
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Interesting concept. The first thing that come to my mind is to use Bicycle inner tube.
Most of the time not soft enough. Also, exacerbating the problem, it's unusual for the thinnest softest bike tubes to be made in a large enough diameter.

According to the bike shop guys some of the top racing bikes these days don't even use inner tubes in their tyres.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:18 AM   #38568
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
with the supplied cable and then through the sensor port......
Does not work on either of my 1-2s r10 pros.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:23 AM   #38569
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Interesting concept. The first thing that come to my mind is to use Bicycle inner tube.
I actually tried that back in the days of capped rubber tires on F1 cars...it was really really really bad.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:18 PM   #38570
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Does not work on either of my 1-2s r10 pros.
Ok.
I don't own one myself, but last week I helped somebody with the Orion 1-2S, we borrowed the program box from another Orion user who has the 2-3S version, and it didn't work either, it seems that there is a difference between the cable from a 2-3S ESC compared to 1-2S ESC.
Does that help you?
Next thing I can think about, is your motor still connected to the ESC with it's sensor cable? If so, please disconnect it.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:20 PM   #38571
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I actually tried that back in the days of capped rubber tires on F1 cars...it was really really really bad.
Also for drifting?
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:22 PM   #38572
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Ok.
I don't own one myself, but last week I helped somebody with the Orion 1-2S, we borrowed the program box from another Orion user who has the 2-3S version, and it didn't work either, it seems that there is a difference between the cable from a 2-3S ESC compared to 1-2S ESC.
Does that help you?
Next thing I can think about, is your motor still connected to the ESC with it's sensor cable? If so, please disconnect it.

Martin, Disconnecting the motor should not be a problem. I've programmed my speedo with both the box and motor plugged in.

Hobbywing box doesn't work with the Orion. It's different!

Regards Robert
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:30 PM   #38573
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Martin, Disconnecting the motor should not be a problem. I've programmed my speedo with both the box and motor plugged in.

Hobbywing box doesn't work with the Orion. It's different!

Regards Robert
I know, Where did I mention Hobbywing?
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:11 PM   #38574
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I am running 1/12 scale and I am using a Novac GTB 4cell do I need to be running a Booster pack or a reciver battery
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:27 PM   #38575
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I am running 1/12 scale and I am using a Novac GTB 4cell do I need to be running a Booster pack or a reciver battery
Maybe.

Try it and see what happens. It may depend on how much of the battery you are using in a run.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:45 PM   #38576
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I've been running a booster in one of my cars with the 4-cell novak for most of this year. The issue i had without it was as soon as i plugged a personal transponder in, everything would go crazy. Fitted the booster, no issues after that.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #38577
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Originally Posted by waltss2k View Post
I am running 1/12 scale and I am using a Novac GTB 4cell do I need to be running a Booster pack or a reciver battery
There is no servo that runs well on 3.7v. They are designed to run on 4.8v. anything less and they will run really slow. If you do not have a booster, rx pack or a speedo with a built in booster you need to get one of those 3.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:54 PM   #38578
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Aside from the sticky natural rubber tires, what setup changes are typical in swapping a car from being a 'stock' car with a premium on conserving energy in the corners to a 'modified' car where you need to use the setup and drag brake to slow the car in corners and run a tighter line? Is it really just the tires and steering throw, or is there a well-measured change to be made? I have checked setup sheets and other sources of information but it sees that for even the same driver using the same chassis the setup differences in stock and modified are minimal aside from tires and steering settings... I ask because I wound up using my 'stock' 1/12 car to run modified at the last IIC, and while I didn't embarass myself as badly as I thought I would my car had a very different way of going around the track than the experienced 1/12 racers. My car tended to look like an overpowered stock car (which it was, even with a tire swap to the soft natural rubber) and the experienced Mod racers cars basically bounced off the apexes of corners.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:22 AM   #38579
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Aside from the sticky natural rubber tires, what setup changes are typical in swapping a car from being a 'stock' car with a premium on conserving energy in the corners to a 'modified' car where you need to use the setup and drag brake to slow the car in corners and run a tighter line? Is it really just the tires and steering throw, or is there a well-measured change to be made? I have checked setup sheets and other sources of information but it sees that for even the same driver using the same chassis the setup differences in stock and modified are minimal aside from tires and steering settings... I ask because I wound up using my 'stock' 1/12 car to run modified at the last IIC, and while I didn't embarass myself as badly as I thought I would my car had a very different way of going around the track than the experienced 1/12 racers. My car tended to look like an overpowered stock car (which it was, even with a tire swap to the soft natural rubber) and the experienced Mod racers cars basically bounced off the apexes of corners.
At the nationals this past year I ran stock and mod. I use the same tires in both classes, magenta front and pink rear. For stock I ran 22 front springs, a stiffer center spring and a little less dual rate. For mod I used 20 front springs. That's all that was different. I tqed stock and was second in mod. It mainly comes down to experience, practice, and attention to detail on the cars. Any setup will work in stock, the setup will be tested in mod.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:53 AM   #38580
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Im getting a RC12R5.2 next week to race in 13.5 Blinky. I want to know if the Flow is the replacement to the Stock Spec v2. or will the Stock spec , still be relevant. Ive seen some Stock spec combos for $259 with Reedy motor but ive also seen $169 for a Flow. Which is better for Blinky 1/12?
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