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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-09-2012, 10:15 AM   #38551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I miss your manly touch on my football, by the way.
TMI.

Vipers are great too. It's just taken a while for people to realize it. I have been beat many times by an early prototype of one from years back.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:55 PM   #38552
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Hi guys,

I use a MMR 24A power supply and it never failed me, I think what you need is a so called switching power supply, don't ask me why cause I don't know more about it. I have seen guys using a LRP14A power supply using a hudy truer but they need to help, by giving a swing to the tyre, to get the motor to rev up!

Hope this helps a bit!
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:45 PM   #38553
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I'm getting ready to rewire my esc. What gage do most of you use? 16, 18, or 20? I'm running 13.5 blinky if that matters.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:32 PM   #38554
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TQ 16. Really flexible stuff.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:45 AM   #38555
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If you guys were to race on a cleaned, but non-sprayed concrete surface, what tires would you start with?
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:02 PM   #38556
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If it is smooth concrete it will be near impossible to get grip...maybe a capped tire might work. Rough concrete I don't know. Maybe white rears but the wear is going to be pretty fast.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:16 PM   #38557
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To anyone running a 1-2s r10 pro, how do you get it to connect with the programming box?
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:30 PM   #38558
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Woohoo, a question on the 12th thread to which I can confidently reply as the expert!

Caps for a 12th are pretty much unobtainable. I know, I've been trying for 2 years. You can occasionally find some old caps on ebay, but that is the extent of it. I wrote to Bob Stormer, and even he couldn't help me. There is a company that advertises 12th caps but when you press them for a price and minimum order they stop responding.

Anyway, back to how to get the car to work. How clean the surface is, is important. Even when you think the surface is clean its probably still a little dusty, unless it has had a lot of running. The smoother the surface too, the more difficult it will be to get the car to work.

You want to use a Japanese foam because these have the highest rubber content. I'm using Speedminds. Find the softest possible foam for the rear. Currently I'm using Speedmind 30 shores. Rub in as much Banana Boat sunscreen as you can find, bake the sunscreen into the tyre with wrap-around tyre warmers at about 50-60 degrees Celsius.

For the front Speedmind 35 shore, or 32 shore when the grip comes up are a good start. Do not sauce the fronts at all.

Now, you will still have really low rear grip, so you'll want to dial in some mechanical grip. I'm using an Associated RC12R5.1, which has a side shock. 20 wt oil is as heavy as you want to get in the side shock. You won't want to use a harder side spring than silver. Green sometimes works better. The centre shock you'll also want to run soft, I suggest 20 to 25 wt, with no stiffer than a blue centre spring. Now, because the rear is so soft, you have to run the front a little softer too. 0.018" front springs are what you need, then run as much caster as the chassis allows. I'm running around 6*, with the active caster at 10*.

Use a high downforce body. Run a diffuser if you can find one. I've also toyed with using a motor fan to suck the car to the ground a bit. It works if your surface is smooth enough. There is nothing in the rules to stop you doing this. Tape up any other holes in the bottom of the chassis.

Now, if the surface is at all dusty, then the tyres will pick up the dust, and your grip will be reduced though the night. You will either have to take a skim off the rear tyres between runs, or have a new set available to swap to after each run. Beware of any chalk used on the surface, it will kill your grip in 2 laps.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:35 AM   #38559
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I have read that 16g wire is fine for 13.5 blinky

Is it also ok for 10.5 blinky??

Also, where is a good place to fine low tooth 48p spur gears? ie, 60, with enough diff ball holes?

Cheers
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:21 AM   #38560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Caps for a 12th are pretty much unobtainable.
Hi Radio Active,

When you mentioned "Caps" are you refering to Foam Donut Tyre ?

For me, I simply order from Japan. See
http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/store/...ndex&cPath=193

I will go cheap and order the J Dash, 8 in a pack, 1102 Yen, "glue" and ture myself.
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:21 AM   #38561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
Hi Radio Active,

When you mentioned "Caps" are you refering to Foam Donut Tyre ?

For me, I simply order from Japan. See
http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/store/...ndex&cPath=193

I will go cheap and order the J Dash, 8 in a pack, 1102 Yen, "glue" and ture myself.
Thanks, but no. A cap is a soft rubber sleeve glued over the top of a foam tyre with flexible contact adhesive.

Here is a guide in Dutch, and for a Pro-10: http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/...tire-caps.html
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:40 AM   #38562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
To anyone running a 1-2s r10 pro, how do you get it to connect with the programming box?
with the supplied cable and then through the sensor port......
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:53 AM   #38563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Here is a guide in Dutch, and for a Pro-10: http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/...tire-caps.html
Your Dutch?
Haha, that's how I did it first on my pro10, and then Joost (the one from that tutorial) did it WAYYYY better!.... hahahaha... we use them as rain tyres like that.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:02 AM   #38564
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Your Dutch?
Haha, that's how I did it first on my pro10, and then Joost (the one from that tutorial) did it WAYYYY better!.... hahahaha... we use them as rain tyres like that.
No, I'm not Dutch. My German vocabulary is about 200 words, and that's as close as I can get to reading it without babelfish ha. I used the link for the pictures. Caps do work extremely well on dusty concrete, but alas no one makes them for 12th any more.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:09 AM   #38565
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Aha, fair enough.
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