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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #38536
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What you say is true but if you don't mind a little tuning, Tekin has the flexibility to do it. The problem is that the default settings suck. For 17.5 1/12th, get rid of the ridiculously high deadband, add some push, set minimum throttle to match your motor and timing (just takes some bench testing to get right) and maybe go to a more aggressive throttle profile and rock and roll.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:09 PM   #38537
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Thank you for supporting my statement, even if that wasn't your intention. It isn't about feeling anything between no throttle and full throttle, it is about feeling too much of a difference between full throttle and 15/16ths throttle. To me, backing off a minute amount feels like I have completely gone to neutral throttle. It always felt like there was no in-between, and for classes that you don't drive like an on/off switch I found that sensation rather annoying (for instance, 17.5 12th). Could I have played around even more with ESC settings to maybe help mask that feeling? Perhaps, but I chose to just use a different product that felt better out of the box and it still seems to be an issue that Tekin users complain about.

I also enjoy being able to try and get the hole shot, which seems to be an issue that has plagued nearly every single Tekin driver here locally.

You can be fast with any of these speedos, and they all have their own individual flaws and faults. I decided that, for me, the faults with the Tekin were too high of a price to pay, that's all. I harbour no ill-will towards Tekin or people who use Tekin, it just isn't the right product for me. My only goal in responding to the initial question was to explain the options as well as my experiences. I am pretty sure that is all we are capable of with any sort of question like this.
Is there any theoretical advantage to changing the throttle profile in the ESC rather than on the radio? I'm using a radio purchased in 2000 that has the ability to set up throttle curves, and even have stepped profiles if I want. I just have to know what type of throttle curve I want to program. The only thing I'm not sure I can do is push control. There is a setting for a different steering return rate, but I haven't found the throttle equivalent yet.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:48 PM   #38538
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Thank you for supporting my statement, even if that wasn't your intention. It isn't about feeling anything between no throttle and full throttle, it is about feeling too much of a difference between full throttle and 15/16ths throttle. To me, backing off a minute amount feels like I have completely gone to neutral throttle. It always felt like there was no in-between, and for classes that you don't drive like an on/off switch I found that sensation rather annoying (for instance, 17.5 12th). Could I have played around even more with ESC settings to maybe help mask that feeling? Perhaps, but I chose to just use a different product that felt better out of the box and it still seems to be an issue that Tekin users complain about.

I also enjoy being able to try and get the hole shot, which seems to be an issue that has plagued nearly every single Tekin driver here locally.

You can be fast with any of these speedos, and they all have their own individual flaws and faults. I decided that, for me, the faults with the Tekin were too high of a price to pay, that's all. I harbour no ill-will towards Tekin or people who use Tekin, it just isn't the right product for me. My only goal in responding to the initial question was to explain the options as well as my experiences. I am pretty sure that is all we are capable of with any sort of question like this.
I rarely have an issue getting a "monster'" launch with my tekins, nor do I experience any issues with throttle feel in my 17.5 12th scale car. I just noticed that since going to blinky very few track layouts require anything more than a part throttle lift for tight corners, and then it's right back to full strapped. That situation is further compounded by the ridiculous rollouts required for the class. In boosted, the additional speed did require some throttle finesse,as does Mod. Perhaps asphalt might require some additional smoothness as well.


It was the "many people complain about the throttle feel" wording. I just took that as more of a blanket statement. As you stated above, individual results may vary (as mine have).
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:24 PM   #38539
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If the asphalt is clean and lightly sprayed with sugar water traction is really close to carpet with magenta fronts and pink rears. In FL we run 13.5 Blinky 1/12th on asphalt all the time. If your tire prep and setup is good its really hard to get the car out of shape with the throttle.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:19 PM   #38540
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
...The problem is that the default settings suck. For 17.5 1/12th, get rid of the ridiculously high deadband, add some push, set minimum throttle to match your motor and timing (just takes some bench testing to get right) ....
Could you advise how you set deadband? I lowered mine until I see ESC lights indicate throttle as soon as I move the TX throttle.

What am I looking for when setting the minimum throttle setting? Currently 17.5 blinky but also running 17.5 boosted.

I am going to try push although I've always like a little drag brake. Must be a leftover from brushed days and running on very small circuits. Now running on a large track and should try push.
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #38541
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Drag brake is great for faster motors but blinky 17.5, you're probably going to be faster with push.

Deadband I usually set to 1. Some radios have a problem with neutral drift and require more but I have had no problems using 1 with airtronics.

Minimum throttle: Pull the trigger ever so slightly until the first throttle light on the speedo comes on. Usually you will just hear a slight whine noise but no movement. Bump up the minimum setting until the motor starts turning slowly at that point. If it's spinning fast, back off the setting. This setting can vary a bit with different motors and different amounts of motor timing.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:03 PM   #38542
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IM OVERWHELMED WITH THE EXCEPTIONAL ABILITY TO BE ABLE TO DRIVE THIS CAR UNDER EXTREME TRACK CONDITIONS...THE 1/12TH IS BY FAR THE MOST EXCITING SPORT NEXT TO 1/8TH ONROAD NITRO ITS JUST MIND BOGGLING WHAT THESE CARS CAN HANDEL UNDER ENORMOUS POWER...THE TOURING CAR WAS NOT ABLE TO GIVE ME THAT POWER SLIDE. CORNERING SPEED THAT DOES PAN CAR IZ ABLE TO GIVE...IM USING A 6CELL PACK TO PUSH SPEEDZ YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE UNCONVENTIONAL WAY TO HARNESS THE ABILITY TO CONTROL CAR UNDER ENORMOUS SPEEDS..
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:40 PM   #38543
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Originally Posted by Tuner EM View Post
Could you advise how you set deadband? I lowered mine until I see ESC lights indicate throttle as soon as I move the TX throttle.

What am I looking for when setting the minimum throttle setting? Currently 17.5 blinky but also running 17.5 boosted.

I am going to try push although I've always like a little drag brake. Must be a leftover from brushed days and running on very small circuits. Now running on a large track and should try push.
try a little bit of drag brake, you may like it. I personally run a tiny bit of drag brake in my cars allllllllll classes and when i ran stock 17.5 i believe i ran about "9" or so on my tekin. it fits my driving style a little better and allows be to drive the car harder into the corner.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:36 PM   #38544
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
try a little bit of drag brake, you may like it. I personally run a tiny bit of drag brake in my cars allllllllll classes and when i ran stock 17.5 i believe i ran about "9" or so on my tekin. it fits my driving style a little better and allows be to drive the car harder into the corner.
Bear in mind that drag brake adds quite a lot of heat for the slight advantage it gives. In the blinkly classes heat kills, and also can hamper your ability to run up front with the top level guys who aren't running any drag brake and can gear higher as a result.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:03 PM   #38545
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I dont see why you would need Drag Brake in 17.5/13.5 blinky. It could cover up a setup problem like an off power push. With a good setup you barely need to slow down for hairpins.

Mod is a different story though. Drag brake is necessary when you are running boosted 4.0 motors.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:24 AM   #38546
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Thank you for supporting my statement, even if that wasn't your intention. It isn't about feeling anything between no throttle and full throttle, it is about feeling too much of a difference between full throttle and 15/16ths throttle. To me, backing off a minute amount feels like I have completely gone to neutral throttle. It always felt like there was no in-between, and for classes that you don't drive like an on/off switch I found that sensation rather annoying (for instance, 17.5 12th). Could I have played around even more with ESC settings to maybe help mask that feeling? Perhaps, but I chose to just use a different product that felt better out of the box and it still seems to be an issue that Tekin users complain about.

I also enjoy being able to try and get the hole shot, which seems to be an issue that has plagued nearly every single Tekin driver here locally.

You can be fast with any of these speedos, and they all have their own individual flaws and faults. I decided that, for me, the faults with the Tekin were too high of a price to pay, that's all. I harbour no ill-will towards Tekin or people who use Tekin, it just isn't the right product for me. My only goal in responding to the initial question was to explain the options as well as my experiences. I am pretty sure that is all we are capable of with any sort of question like this.
Come on now ,youve only had the viper for a week and its that much better ? Just because you run with Ficco doesnt meen you have to all of the sudden be a tekin hater.
Ive ran Pauls car with the viper and it feels exactly like my tekin so your setting must bee jacked.
And by the way tekin is the fastest in all our blinky classes at 5280
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:35 AM   #38547
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Default no faster with new motor

just changed my speed passion v3 10.5 motor for a speed passion mmm 10.5 motor in my rc12r5.1 12th car max motor timing on v3 was 10 degrees on the mmm its 20 degrees which i run last night i run the core rc speedo in blinky mode i thought the mmm would be quicker having the extra 10 degree motor timing but was a lap slower with the mmm has the v3 on the same track layout has the week before i also run the same roll out (gearing) any ideas ?
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:43 AM   #38548
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I don't typically like to base the merits of a product upon how many "fast" people are using it, but it is also a little disconcerting to see that very very few people use Novak. I know Dustin uses Novak for TC, but I don't think I have ever seen a Novak in a 12th scale (on-road, oval may differ).
I've used the Havoc 1s in my 1/12 scale car. It worked well, but was a tank. I'm currently using the Edge plus Smartboost, and it also works well. Neither has dynamic timing, so I use a separate timing module when needed.

And I'm not one of the "fast" people!
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:51 AM   #38549
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Is there any theoretical advantage to changing the throttle profile in the ESC rather than on the radio?
Yes. If the resolution (granularity, or number of discrete steps) that the ESC can read from the input pulse is too limited, then it's best to make profile changes in the ESC to help maintain a smoother response.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:48 AM   #38550
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
Come on now ,youve only had the viper for a week and its that much better ? Just because you run with Ficco doesnt meen you have to all of the sudden be a tekin hater.
Ive ran Pauls car with the viper and it feels exactly like my tekin so your setting must bee jacked.
And by the way tekin is the fastest in all our blinky classes at 5280
I don't hate Tekin! Is Brent using a Tekin in his WGT? I will admit that his car is fast, but I don't think we can really use you as a benchmark for blinky speeds at CORRC. You would wipe the floor with all (most) of us no matter the speedo you were using, let's be honest.

I had lots of issues with my Tekins, so I choose not to run them now. Simple as that.

I miss your manly touch on my football, by the way.
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