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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-05-2003, 05:05 PM   #3841
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three links car made the main (i was one of them, with the [and I found this out after I saw this body, or else I would have just run white bodies] MikeD look alike paint job, lol), one Knife and two Merchants. On asphalt the plate cars are faster. Although in Mod, come on, it was josh, lol , he could have wheeled a radio shack car to first place, lol. (and I think there were only 3 links cars total who showed up for 12th stock, so it could have been worse, lol)

Although just a note, links cars have pretty much dominated on carpet (Frank has won master for the past ever at cleveland, bailes won regular stock last year. at the nats Rev. 3's have won for the past 3+ years in stock), but do I think at the higher levels of racing plates vs. links, makes a difference? no. anything can defently be fast, from what I have seen with guys starting up with 12th scale locally, its been easier with links cars.

Also just a note, I was wondeirng about the spring rate retention as well. So i made a jig to test out springs that have had pretty much a full season on them (like 30+ race days) vs. NIB springs. I used Big Jim's Fiddle Stick II (which is used to measured how much the rate in motor springs goes down), and found that the difference between new and old side springs was negligable. So believe it or not, when BIC ships off their springs to Wolfe, who tips em in paint and bends them out, and then ships them to CRC and SpeedMerhcant, they are actually getting very high quality springs, lol

BTW, anyone going to any USTC races this fall/winter/spring?
I dont think I will be able to make the first two, however I will be most likely at the Jam, Scotty's race and the nats incase anyone might care
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Old 09-05-2003, 05:08 PM   #3842
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Thumbs up Same Ol Story.....Chevy...Ford

Just race!! Everyone has a personal preference. I chose the CRC because the battereis don't have to be taped in and I could adjust fore and aft independantly from side to side. This is for both dampening and spring rate. It works for me.

I have a spring 1/10 car and a T-plate 1/10 car, both have their advantages. I just don't like changing the T plate. Personal thing.

GET ANY 1/12 AND RACE IT!! They are all in the $150 to $250 range. Then you can decide.

I think Racerdx has had some really bad crashes, I have never broken the things he has.

Rule # 1 Have Fun!

David Root
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Old 09-05-2003, 05:45 PM   #3843
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I concur pretty much
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Old 09-05-2003, 10:27 PM   #3844
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My crashes may sound bad. But all they really are is just a decent wack to the sweeper, I'm sure that people have seen/had worse crashes but it may just be the way I hit the pipe. Or mabey its just that I'm trying to take too tight of a line (but the car hopping on the old wrinkly carpet doesn't help much either ).
I would reccomend the speed merchent rev. 3 over the carpet knife 3.1 (I don't know anything bout the 3.2, I'll go check CRC's site to see what they changed). Mainly just because of the side links, so far I haven't broken a speed merchent link yet. And don't worry bout the speed merchent not having holes drilled in it for the servo mounts. I've recently mounted my servo flat on my carpet knife because the servo saver would hit the body anyway so I couldn't get the body down low enough. The rev. 3 also has an adjustable battary position. I would of chosen the rev. 3 but I was so paranoid bout not having the holes in it for the servo, but mounting the servo is always better, unless you have to remove your servo often. You get a lower CG, less weight, and you can get your body lower in some cases. Hope this helps for anyone getting into 1/12 scale.

Here's some good news about my carpet knife. I installed some motor shims in the rear foot ball thing and so I got my rear pod to sit level (for some reason one side was about 1.5 mm lower than the chassis. And I got the tweak "perfect" , so to speak. Im sure it could be better. But its as perfect as I can tell, and the only way to get it better would probably to spend about 2 more hours screwing with it.
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Old 09-05-2003, 10:29 PM   #3845
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Don't get me wrong though, I'm not trying to say that I don't like the carpet knife or its not a good car. Just because of my experiance, I think that I might of been happier to just of gotten the rev. 3. But either way you'll be happy. Because your still racing 12th scale either way, and 12th scale is a blast!
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Old 09-06-2003, 12:33 AM   #3846
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Default When's the "new" SpeedMerchant car available???

Any of you "big dogs" know when a regular "Joe" can get a Rev3 with the V-Force front end??

Love to just order it with the "new" frontend and the blue "shiny stuff" but you can't ever seem to reach anyone to ask about availability...

Help?? If you know something I don't or you are a "team guy" .. .. ..I'd be happy to make your efforts worthwhile for brokering the deal....

thx!

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Old 09-06-2003, 05:22 AM   #3847
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From the last I heard its still in development. I dont think anyone has talked to bruce (the owner of speedmerchant) in the past few months, so not sure about when it will be out, since I was talking to a few of their team drivers who are currently unaware of the status ofthe V-Force in reguards to its release. Although I wouldnt get too preoccupied with it. The old style front end is still very fast, cheap and durable.

I think Davidl could answer your question better though. (being a "team driva'" and all )
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Old 09-06-2003, 07:06 AM   #3848
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Default Another One for Davidl

You seem to be here a lot and answered the question about 1/12 scale old shcool front end having -2? camber.

what about 1/10 old front end, Same thing?

Slap me for using the wrong fourm.

Thanks DavidL

David Root

Last edited by David Root; 09-06-2003 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 09-06-2003, 07:10 AM   #3849
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Default Re: Anotyher One for Davidl

Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
You seem to be here a lot and answered the question about 1/12 scale old shcool front end having -2? camber.

what about 1/10 old front end, Same thing?

Slap me for using the wrong fourm.

Thanks DavidL

David Root
They are the exact same part.
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Old 09-06-2003, 08:08 AM   #3850
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CMW - I didn't know that! WOW, glad you jumped in

Now regarding the V-Force front suspension. As most of you know and others have figured, I am a team driver for Speedmerchant. I have run the V-Force in a race at the Snowbirds, got 4th after falling to 10th in the first corner. I started running it at club races in Taunton, MA last Oct. So here goes.

1) The production version of the V-Force suspension is not available for purchase as I write this. I talked with Bruce yesterday and the feeling I got was that there are things to do with the manufacturing of the parts and it is not a high priority. I can't give you any hope of a date when the suspension will be available for sale.

2) Bruce told me directly that the V-Force suspension is only valuable for tracks that are wide open with sweeping corners. So if you are running on tracks that have tight 180's, for example, you should look to another suspension for optimum performance. The Old Skool and the dynamic strut should do a nice job on those tracks. The V-Force actually may have a good application in oval, but that is just my opinion.

3) Last night was a setup night for me. I installed my V-Force prototype on a spare car with some additonal insight from Bruce and I finally have the bump-steer under control. Next is to run the car with this configuration and see what I can get out of it. More later.

I hope that helps those of you that have been inquiring about the V-Force suspension. I hope you can be patient until it is ready to go. As with anything new, it takes time to work things out, and I recognize that it also puts an element of interest and intrigue in the consumer. So the bottom line is that it isn't ready yet. Please be patient. You will be able to get it when it is worked out.
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Old 09-06-2003, 09:22 AM   #3851
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DavidL-The Halloween Classic is filling up fast!!! We have 92/150 entries already!!
Ray Huang
Kelly Bean
Dave Morrow
Bud Bartos
Ron Mick
Chuck Lonegran
Rick Worth
Eric Jones
Mark Sweeney
Eli Ezro
Bill Jeric

All signed up already!!! Dont misss out on all the fun!!

Ray
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Old 09-06-2003, 04:05 PM   #3852
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I just got and IRS axle for my Rev3. It's the large ring with 12 balls. It seems that the balls are very close to the edge of the rings. I'm using a Kimbourgh Spur. Is there a different spur that would get the balls closer in to the axle and in the middle of the rings more? I looks like the diff would get dirty pretty fast the way it is set up right now. Thanks for any info.
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Old 09-06-2003, 05:44 PM   #3853
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Use the snap on dust covers
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Old 09-06-2003, 07:35 PM   #3854
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Ray - my entry went into the mail this evening.

Scrad, don't worry about the positon of the balls and dirt. It will be fine. You can use the white covers if you want, but they are not necessary. The most important thing to do is sand both sides of the diff ring flat on a smooth, flat surface with 600 paper. That will equalize the force on each ball and give the balls a very good surface to ride on. You will be surprised how smooth it is when done correctly and the times you can run it without rebuilding. Oh, the next most important thing is to use a new outside bearing when you start. It will last a long time, too.
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Old 09-06-2003, 07:44 PM   #3855
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I got a yellow axle, so I didn't get the covers you guys are talking about. I got last years model for 23 dollars. But it sounds like I shouldn't worry about it too much. Thanks for the info.
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