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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2012, 08:19 AM   #38521
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
12th scale guys..... I am looking for a power supply that I can run my Hudy truer off of.

The current 12v/25A supply I use for my GFX doesn't have the juice to run the Hudy. I suspect I need something with at least 30A or more, and I can't seem to find many(any) RC oriented pwr supplies that fit those requirements.

Should I be looking at PC type supplies? Etc?
On our truing bench, we use the Rivergate 90A PS. I've seen 5 people truing tires without issue.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:31 AM   #38522
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I use a Dell Power Supply -- 500W/41A with my charger. I've used it with an OFNA truer. For some reason it popped the internal voltage/load protection a couple of times at first, but then I trued about 10 tires right after that with no problems. (It resets internally in just a couple of seconds...).

The nice thing -- they're CHEAP. If you want to know more, PM me -- I can even hook you up with one.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:12 AM   #38523
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Hey James,

I use the 45 amp Rivergate more power than you will ever need. I cut my 12th & 8th scale tires on a Hudy.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:17 AM   #38524
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
12th scale guys..... I am looking for a power supply that I can run my Hudy truer off of.

The current 12v/25A supply I use for my GFX doesn't have the juice to run the Hudy. I suspect I need something with at least 30A or more, and I can't seem to find many(any) RC oriented pwr supplies that fit those requirements.

Should I be looking at PC type supplies? Etc?
Is your current power supply fully regulated, or a switching power supply? I used to use a 25 amp Pyramid, and it would cut 8th scale rears without issue. Alot of switching supplies can't keep up with the initial draw demand of the Hudy.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:27 PM   #38525
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I am getting into onroad and I was curious why the Tekin Rs is preferred? Is there anything udesirable with novak kinetic spec? Thanks for any help
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:33 PM   #38526
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I am getting into onroad and I was curious why the Tekin Rs is preferred? Is there anything udesirable with novak kinetic spec? Thanks for any help
I would not say the Tekin RS is "preferred" persay, as there are lots of speedos out there that are popular. Lots of people like the Tekin because it is small, but you will have to use either a booster or a receiver pack with it. Also, lots of people complain about the throttle feel with Tekin.

Other good options include the Hobbywing 1s speedo, which is larger but doesn't need a booster or receiver pack. The Viper 1s speedo is a great choice, as it is nearly as small as the Tekin but doesn't need a booster or receiver pack.

I would personally look at the Viper or the Hobbywing before I used a Tekin, but I know others will differ in opinion.

Novak isn't bad...but is "lacking" when compared to the other options. I will leave it at that.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:40 PM   #38527
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Well, if size is the issue, I know the novak spec with its newer low profile heat sink is not that much larger then the Tekin. What do you mean by laking? Is it not as smooth?
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:42 PM   #38528
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Tekin is popular for its performance, adjustability and versatility. It will do stock, mod, blinky, boosted, anything you want and there is plenty of set-up help available both locally and online. The free firmware updates have made it the only speedo that has been around basically from the beginning and has never been made obsolete.

That being said, Viper and Hobbywing are excellent alternatives.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:14 PM   #38529
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Well, if size is the issue, I know the novak spec with its newer low profile heat sink is not that much larger then the Tekin. What do you mean by laking? Is it not as smooth?
I personally supremely dislike the Novak solder tabs, and it also has to be programmed via a computer (no programming box). Same holds true for the Tekin. I don't typically like to base the merits of a product upon how many "fast" people are using it, but it is also a little disconcerting to see that very very few people use Novak. I know Dustin uses Novak for TC, but I don't think I have ever seen a Novak in a 12th scale (on-road, oval may differ).

Tekin is very versatile, there is no doubt. With that said, I find the throttle feel definitely to be a little on/off. If you are running mod you just need to be sure to have a fan blowing on the solder posts and be sure to pay attention to temps.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:20 PM   #38530
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I personally supremely dislike the Novak solder tabs, and it also has to be programmed via a computer (no programming box). Same holds true for the Tekin. I don't typically like to base the merits of a product upon how many "fast" people are using it, but it is also a little disconcerting to see that very very few people use Novak. I know Dustin uses Novak for TC, but I don't think I have ever seen a Novak in a 12th scale (on-road, oval may differ).

Tekin is very versatile, there is no doubt. With that said, I find the throttle feel definitely to be a little on/off. If you are running mod you just need to be sure to have a fan blowing on the solder posts and be sure to pay attention to temps.
Tekin with latest 223 software has at least 5 base selectable profiles (blinky + 4 boost from mild to wild), no need to connect Hotwire for anything but custom boost, or feel settings I think ?

Throttle feel has improved a lot as well since v208

There may be similare "sized" speedos, but the RS is very light, that's why it is popular in 12th
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:54 PM   #38531
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Also, lots of people complain about the throttle feel with Tekin.
I still love this statement. If you're running 17.5 blinky or 13.5 blinky, and you can feel anything for the .2 of a nanosecond between no throttle and full throttle, you're doing it wrong.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:10 PM   #38532
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I know the Hobbywing 1s is fast, and the Viper seems to be quick as well, though I've yet to see a VTX1 in action.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:17 PM   #38533
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... A lot of switching supplies can't keep up with the initial draw demand of the Hudy.
Ah! That would explain why mine needed a couple of trial runs before actually working. I'm still happy with mine considering the price.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:23 PM   #38534
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Ah! That would explain why mine needed a couple of trial runs before actually working. I'm still happy with mine considering the price.
I had a supply I had to "kickstart" to get going, but once I spun the wheel up manually then flipped the switch, all was well.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:26 PM   #38535
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I still love this statement. If you're running 17.5 blinky or 13.5 blinky, and you can feel anything for the .2 nano seconds between no throttle and full throttle, you're doing it wrong.
Thank you for supporting my statement, even if that wasn't your intention. It isn't about feeling anything between no throttle and full throttle, it is about feeling too much of a difference between full throttle and 15/16ths throttle. To me, backing off a minute amount feels like I have completely gone to neutral throttle. It always felt like there was no in-between, and for classes that you don't drive like an on/off switch I found that sensation rather annoying (for instance, 17.5 12th). Could I have played around even more with ESC settings to maybe help mask that feeling? Perhaps, but I chose to just use a different product that felt better out of the box and it still seems to be an issue that Tekin users complain about.

I also enjoy being able to try and get the hole shot, which seems to be an issue that has plagued nearly every single Tekin driver here locally.

You can be fast with any of these speedos, and they all have their own individual flaws and faults. I decided that, for me, the faults with the Tekin were too high of a price to pay, that's all. I harbour no ill-will towards Tekin or people who use Tekin, it just isn't the right product for me. My only goal in responding to the initial question was to explain the options as well as my experiences. I am pretty sure that is all we are capable of with any sort of question like this.
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