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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-01-2012, 10:51 AM   #38491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I have never seen a discussion of how the position of the motor inside of the pod affects the car handling... it would seem relevant because of the growing difference i pod length between various cars. My new CRC xti has a very short pod compared to the old Xi/XL pod dimensions, and in order to run my usual gear set I had to grind away a large amount of the football. I know moving the motor forward effectively removes unsprung weight, putting the weight on the center shock instead of just the rear tires, but does anybody know how that changes the car attitude aside from the age-old less unsprung weight is better argument?
I think the CRC Xti's rear pod being shorter is a design concession made to make room for everything to fit on the chassis in line. I do not feel that a reducing the distance from the rear axle to the cent pivot is a positive step. Neither does anyone else as pods have gotten longer (even CRC's) over the last 10 years. Part of this was due to changes in gearing for BL but in testing the longer pods were faster.

I raced and worked for BMI and over the years developing the DB12R, RR and Copperhead 12 we tested different rear pod lengths. I can say with certainty that shorter is NOT faster. This is true of live axle rear suspension systems in full scale cars too.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:14 PM   #38492
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Hi guys, just a quick question about rear motor and diff orientation..

Could anybody explain why I haven't seen any cars with the motor the other way round and the diff on the left side of the car...? Im sure there are speed controls that run with reversed settings on so it would be possible as far as I can tell..

I ask because it would give me a benefit in pod/motor balance at the moment, just wondering if there was some negative reason its not done?

Regards,

Andy
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:03 PM   #38493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone View Post
Hi guys, just a quick question about rear motor and diff orientation..

Could anybody explain why I haven't seen any cars with the motor the other way round and the diff on the left side of the car...? I'm sure there are speed controls that run with reversed settings on so it would be possible as far as I can tell..

I ask because it would give me a benefit in pod/motor balance at the moment, just wondering if there was some negative reason its not done?

Regards,

Andy
1. Brushed Stock and Spec motors had timing advance and were designed to run in a certain direction. This is why the gears are on the right.

2. Some BL motors have timing advance built in so they can run in only one direction. I think the Trinity D3.5 has 20 degree of timing advance at the lowest timing setting. Motors with timing at true Zero don't care how they spin, this is controlled by power wire orientation and the speed control.

3. Due to the size and weight distribution of BL motors pods have evolved into asymmetrical shapes so there would have to be a special left drive pod to accomplish this.

Most car designers make the rear pods balanced side to side for most motor combos. Is it really off by that much? Is everything on it...axle, wheels, etc?
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:06 PM   #38494
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I like the look of that Serpent. I drove a serpent at the IIC and it was always easy and responded well to changes. I think I may pass this Xti off to a guy at my track who wants to get started in 1/12 and just keep the XL and Serpent... but I will probably prove to be too lazy.

I measured the difference in pod length from the XL to the Xti and its nearly 0.2", or roughly 10% of the total pod length. The Xti main chassis is close to a half inch longer from the front axle to the pod, giving it an overall longer wheelbase. XL and Xti both double-steered like a bitch with the stock setup, but radical shock changes fixed that.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:28 PM   #38495
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need help everytime i build my diff and grease them up and i run them to break them in and there griddy even wit new ball pads n gear and how u get a smooth diff
and im using rc12r5.1
thx
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:31 PM   #38496
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If you're using new balls and rings then the problem has to be the outer bearing. Try a new one.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:32 PM   #38497
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How to build a diff
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:34 PM   #38498
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Reedy126
When was the last time you changed the outter bearing hub? If you've side smacked any boards you have most likely killed the bearing. Change it out and see I that fixes the diff feel.
E
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:41 PM   #38499
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Quote:
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Reedy126
When was the last time you changed the outter bearing hub? If you've side smacked any boards you have most likely killed the bearing. Change it out and see I that fixes the diff feel.
E
well everthing is new haven't ran this set yet the axel hub balls and pad are new but the old one would feel the same way
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:51 PM   #38500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone View Post
Hi guys, just a quick question about rear motor and diff orientation..

Could anybody explain why I haven't seen any cars with the motor the other way round and the diff on the left side of the car...? Im sure there are speed controls that run with reversed settings on so it would be possible as far as I can tell..

I ask because it would give me a benefit in pod/motor balance at the moment, just wondering if there was some negative reason its not done?

Regards,

Andy
The Mardave car runs that way round:

http://s4db7d0eddc5f2.img.gostorego..../dsc053771.jpg
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:23 PM   #38501
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can anyone share their experiences with tires as far as quality and performance... Ive run jacos and crcs but looking to try enneti's and possibly gravity's.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:01 AM   #38502
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can anyone share their experiences with tires as far as quality and performance... Ive run jacos and crcs but looking to try enneti's and possibly gravity's.
The gravity rc tires work very well in any type of traction (i prefer tha medium/medium) the rear wheels are the same offset as crc but the wheel itself is wider so if your club doesnt care what your rear width is i think youll like them as for the enettis i havent ran them but the only thing ive herd is their not glued very well
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:53 AM   #38503
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Anyone try this servo in a 1/12th car? It has great speed and torque.

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...dID=SPMSH5020G
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:37 AM   #38504
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which most economical solution for rear tires off normal set of Yokomo r12?
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:41 AM   #38505
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Arrow help

Which most economical solution for rear tires off normal set of Yokomo r12?
which parts are needed?
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