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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #38281
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I've thought about trying these: http://www.reflexracing.net/QTEQ-Pow...pe_p_1058.html
Haven't tried them yet though.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:52 AM   #38282
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Default First 12th season - which kit?

I basically have the choice between the TOP Racing Rebel and the Corally. Both have local parts support. Can someone point out the main differences between the two cars?

I'm new to 12th scale, but have raced 8th scale offroad for years.

As this is my first winter with 12th I'm mostly looking for easy maintenance, durability and "friendly" handling.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:28 AM   #38283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ux226 View Post
I basically have the choice between the TOP Racing Rebel and the Corally. Both have local parts support. Can someone point out the main differences between the two cars?

I'm new to 12th scale, but have raced 8th scale offroad for years. but I'd personally go with the Top car between those two. The wealth of knowledge guys like

As this is my first winter with 12th I'm mostly looking for easy maintenance, durability and "friendly" handling.
They're both excellent cars, but the wealth of knowledge guys like Fairtrace and Hannulec have shared on RCTech and Mike's wikipage are invaluable. Of course there's another brand of red car as well.......
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:15 PM   #38284
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So I am going to start running 1/12th again when i get out of Afghanistan. I am moving near Watertown, New York. I know that CRC is in Rome, are there any other tracks in that area? Any recommendations for an ESC? I looked at the line CRC carries, but I don't know if they are any good. Cost really isn't an issue for an ESC. I have run Novak and Tekin in the past with good success, and I know their stuff works well, but I am curious what most guys are running. I will probably be running 17.5 since I am pretty sure I will suck since I haven't touched a controller in forever, but would like to get something that can handle any motor I throw at it in 1/12. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:29 PM   #38285
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I just switched from the Tekin RS ESC in my 1/12th to the Viper VTX1. Both are great ESCs but the VTX1 is smoother on the throttle and doesn't need a voltage booster for the receiver. Even though the specs say differently they are both identical in size. I put mine back to back to check. The aluminum heat sink case is really nice but is also the ESCs only real drawback...the weight. The next closest in small size that does not need a voltage booster or RX pack is the LRP SXX. The Hobbywing and Speed Passion ESCs also work well but are pretty big.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:40 PM   #38286
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What gage wire are most of you using in mod? I have 14 ga and it seems to be tweeking the pod, any help would be great. Thanks
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:44 PM   #38287
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I run 13ga but cut and route my wires in such a way that theres is slack both front to back and side to side.
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:55 PM   #38288
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Hi guys, ran my new Corally chassis for the first time last night at our local club here in the UK. You can run the LiPo either down the length or across the back of the chassis, plus it accepts CRC or AE type front end plus the 'beam' front end that was very popular a few years ago. As I had it last night (in the pic), it had so much steering it was crazy! It seems that running the LiPo down the length of the chassis requires the rear end to be set softer than when running across the back, so have now softened the whole rear end up and will try it again at the next meeting. Either way, I think it is always better tho start with too much steering and then get rid of some, rather than not have enough and try to find more!! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Cheers, Chris.



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Old 09-15-2012, 05:33 PM   #38289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, ran my new Corally chassis for the first time last night at our local club here in the UK. You can run the LiPo either down the length or across the back of the chassis, plus it accepts CRC or AE type front end plus the 'beam' front end that was very popular a few years ago. As I had it last night (in the pic), it had so much steering it was crazy! It seems that running the LiPo down the length of the chassis requires the rear end to be set softer than when running across the back, so have now softened the whole rear end up and will try it again at the next meeting. Either way, I think it is always better tho start with too much steering and then get rid of some, rather than not have enough and try to find more!! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Cheers, Chris.



That steering and the front arms/suspension is very interesting to say the least. How sturdy does the linkage feel?
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:18 AM   #38290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, ran my new Corally chassis for the first time last night at our local club here in the UK. You can run the LiPo either down the length or across the back of the chassis, plus it accepts CRC or AE type front end plus the 'beam' front end that was very popular a few years ago. As I had it last night (in the pic), it had so much steering it was crazy! It seems that running the LiPo down the length of the chassis requires the rear end to be set softer than when running across the back, so have now softened the whole rear end up and will try it again at the next meeting. Either way, I think it is always better tho start with too much steering and then get rid of some, rather than not have enough and try to find more!! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Cheers, Chris.




Why did you choose the Corally front end and not fit an AE or CRC?
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:19 PM   #38291
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The 'centre-point steering' goes right back to the original Corally chassis in 1986. It's a good idea that works well and have never had a problem with it. There is a small amount of play built into the hoops that go around the screw in the servo saver. This is intentional to make the car less 'nervous'. The Beam front end first came out on the SP12G, and the factory just want to try it out with a leightweight LiPo to see how it goes. I will leave it as it is for now (I like the beam front end very much) but will try it out with a AE front end sometime soon. Cheers, Chris.
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:24 PM   #38292
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So did it come with that style front end in the box as an option?
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #38293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
The 'centre-point steering' goes right back to the original Corally chassis in 1986. It's a good idea that works well and have never had a problem with it. There is a small amount of play built into the hoops that go around the screw in the servo saver. This is intentional to make the car less 'nervous'. The Beam front end first came out on the SP12G, and the factory just want to try it out with a leightweight LiPo to see how it goes. I will leave it as it is for now (I like the beam front end very much) but will try it out with a AE front end sometime soon. Cheers, Chris.
I was just going to say that the front end is from the old SP12G. I had that car back in the day. It was a great car.
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:01 PM   #38294
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Not too sure what the final production car will have to be honest. The factory is sending out prototypes to get feedback from the team drivers and will then make their decision. The beam front end has been tweaked over the years however, the way it works in principle is the same. How's everything at BMI mate?!
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:12 PM   #38295
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I had to put my BMI car stuff on hold for a bit to catch up on the work that I missed when My son was born. I fell really far behind with my customers and need to keep them happy. I was with my son for close to 3 months in the NICU and really didnt make it into the shop often. I couldnt leave his side. He has been home for a few months now but I havent caught back up yet. About all I have been able to do is release a line of batteries as it doesnt slow down my production at the shop.
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