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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-29-2012, 07:56 PM   #38206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Stick
No Stick

It's still 12th scale

The coolest class of RC racing cars ever !

Right ?
Who's with me
Oh yeah, I'm with you all the way.
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:23 PM   #38207
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I tried running without the rollover "stick" for a while. Now it is back. Although wrecks were pretty rare, I found that when they did happen the probability of race ending damage was pretty high.

Because a 12th scale on the lid slides pretty damn fast and far and usually hits on a corner. I was racing timing 13.5 - so a decent amount of speed.

After a season of no antenna I had managed to break a pod, an arm, and bend a few axles. All from long fast slides on the lid.

Before that it was VERY rare to break anything and since going back the worst I've done is a broken bearing.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:35 PM   #38208
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I have a small piece of the hook side of velcro on the top of my body stops it almost instantly and it's only less than 10x10mm I just put it on the top of the canopy part where a normally black duct is painted and it blends right in. And it's not too much that is really sticks when the marshal picks up the car
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:04 PM   #38209
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Default length of roll over antenna

I used to have a CRC car that has a roll over antenna a while back. But I sold it away and my current Yokomo R12 doesn't have one.

Anyone know what is the length of the roll over antenna ? I am thinking of getting some carbon stick, cut it to be used as a roll over antenna.
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:07 PM   #38210
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Default Weight on the Drive Shaft

Hi,

I am using the Airtronics MT-4 and playing around with the telemetry function. I figure out that the easilest way to do RPM monitoring is to attach a 1/4 inch Wheel Collar on the shaft with the black & white sticker for the RPM sensor to pick up the speed.

However, the Wheel Collar is around 5gram. Any guidance if the additional 5 gram of the weight will affect handling ?
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:24 AM   #38211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Stick
No Stick

It's still 12th scale

The coolest class of RC racing cars ever !

Right ?
Who's with me
For sure!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
You can also treat with something like Jack a couple days before, it will soak in and be dry before you race, but the tires will be softer.
That's on old trick that is used fo decades. But still works pretty wel.. Just soak the tires at home a couple day's before, it will make the tire softer, but no one can tell...

Regards Robert
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:56 AM   #38212
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Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
I used to have a CRC car that has a roll over antenna a while back. But I sold it away and my current Yokomo R12 doesn't have one.

Anyone know what is the length of the roll over antenna ? I am thinking of getting some carbon stick, cut it to be used as a roll over antenna.
You want to make the mast about 34 cm long (~13.5") that way it should be under 35 cm no matter your ride height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IFMAR Technical Rules, Section 4 1/12 Technical Rules
4.0.1 Rollover antenna may be fitted. If fitted, it must have a blunt end for safety reasons. If a rollover mast and radio antenna are fitted, the antenna must be part of the mast along its length. Maximum height from ground 35 cm.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:02 AM   #38213
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I'll second Jason's post:

If you are running on carpet and don't want to run a rollover antenna, do the following: Place your car upside-down on a flat surface and find the portion of the body that touches the surface near the center of the car. Attach a small piece of Velcro hook material (the prickly stuff, not the fuzzy stuff) on the body at that point. Now when your car goes sliding on it's top, it won't go nearly as far, and the Velcro often has enough traction to flip the car back on its wheels again.

Yes, it's a bit ugly, but probably no more than a rollover antenna.
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Last edited by howardcano; 08-30-2012 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:04 AM   #38214
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You want to make the mast about 34 cm long (~13.5") that way it should be under 35 cm no matter your ride height.
Wut? 35cm

That's hugh! My antenna's are not longer then 12cm and work perfect. For sure it's 35cm?
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:10 AM   #38215
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
I'll second Jason's post:

If you are running on carpet and don't want to run a rollover antenna, do the following: Place your car upside-down on a flat surface and find the portion of the body that touches the surface near the center of the car. Attach a small piece of Velcro hook material (the prickly stuff, not the fuzzy stuff) on the body at that point. Now when your car goes sliding on it's top, it won't go nearly as far, and the Velcro often has enough traction to flip the car back on its wheels again.

Yes, it's a bit ugly, but probably no more than an a rollover antenna.
Technically against the rules:

Quote:
Originally Posted by IFMAR Rule Book
4.2.1 No additional items may be fastened to the body exterior other than the rear trim tab /Gurney strip.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:57 AM   #38216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Technically against the rules: Originally Posted by IFMAR Rule Book
4.2.1 No additional items may be fastened to the body exterior other than the rear trim tab /Gurney strip.
Against IFMAR rules; okay by ROAR rules. And probably safer than a rollover antenna.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:03 AM   #38217
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Against IFMAR rules; okay by ROAR rules. And probably safer than a rollover antenna.
How can a 1/12 sliding towards your ankles at Mach 1 be safer than a rollover antenna ?? ;-)
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:06 AM   #38218
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For sure!!!



That's on old trick that is used fo decades. But still works pretty wel.. Just soak the tires at home a couple day's before, it will make the tire softer, but no one can tell...

Regards Robert
Lonny has been around for decades... DOH!! :-). I'd ask him to teach me some of tricks (skills) but I don't think he wants be to beat him.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:26 AM   #38219
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How can a 1/12 sliding towards your ankles at Mach 1 be safer than a rollover antenna ?? ;-)
E
The purpose of the Velcro is to slow the car. But if it still hits your foot, it might hurt.

I am accident-prone (just ask the guys I race with!), so I prefer not using rollover antennae so I don't get my eyes poked out. (My wife even makes me eat my steak with a spoon.)

Also, as a precaution, I try to keep my 1/12 scale car below Mach 1.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:09 PM   #38220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
The purpose of the Velcro is to slow the car. But if it still hits your foot, it might hurt.

I am accident-prone (just ask the guys I race with!), so I prefer not using rollover antennae so I don't get my eyes poked out. (My wife even makes me eat my steak with a spoon.)

Also, as a precaution, I try to keep my 1/12 scale car below Mach 1.
I like that Velcro idea, never thought of it

Also for the weight conscience
Carbon Fiber sticks
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