R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-04-2012, 10:05 AM   #38131
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 644
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Is it me or are they running different castor left to right?
Yes it is!
80'sracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2012, 02:32 PM   #38132
M7H
Tech Elite
 
M7H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,191
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Is it me or are they running different castor left to right?
And why not.

the track had a full speed left turn at the end of the straight, where you might want a different caster and camber setting on the right side of your car....
__________________
Serpent
M7H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 10:03 AM   #38133
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,297
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H View Post
And why not.

the track had a full speed left turn at the end of the straight, where you might want a different caster and camber setting on the right side of your car....
I've never noticed someone doing that unless they measure it and it's different.
Camber on the other had I see all the time because the outside tire might need more then the inside.
__________________
Rui Goncalves
Reds Racing USA|Hot Race Tyres USA|Team CRC|Team Trinity|
Jackson RC|Horsham RC|Floyd Bennett|Blue Diamond
Jackson curbs, ready for lift off!
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 01:58 AM   #38134
Tech Elite
 
303slowdown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rapid City SD.
Posts: 2,188
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

For those of you who race at tracks that run 17.5 and 13.5 no timing 1/12 what are your lap time differences? We recently started running 13.5 so im not sure what the split should be. At my track 9.3 is fast lap in 17.5 and 9.0 is fastest in 13.5 , that sound a little off to me but i could be wrong. Any replies would be appreciated.
__________________
Ryan Borgheiinck
303slowdown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 06:50 AM   #38135
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
For those of you who race at tracks that run 17.5 and 13.5 no timing 1/12 what are your lap time differences? We recently started running 13.5 so im not sure what the split should be. At my track 9.3 is fast lap in 17.5 and 9.0 is fastest in 13.5 , that sound a little off to me but i could be wrong. Any replies would be appreciated.
.5s split at TQ
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 06:52 AM   #38136
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Are you guys seeing the same amount of fade over the course of an 8min run with 13.5 non-timing vs 17.5?
JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 08:42 AM   #38137
Tech Adept
 
tdu verney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Del City Speed Shop
Posts: 216
Default 17.5 vs 13.5

Are we talking blinky or boosted 17.5???
tdu verney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 09:12 AM   #38138
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Blinky/non-timing...
JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 11:44 AM   #38139
Tech Fanatic
 
nrtv20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 879
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Stock classes are so fast anymore that their time splits to mod/13.5 are not that significant unless you have a big track… 15 sec. a lap track would see a larger jump, 9-11 sec. laps not so much.
__________________
http://www.trautengineering.com/ http://www.toledooneeighthracers.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/nrtv20
One Eigth Racers of Toledo; Hobby Stop West Track; "The Gate" NORCAR
FUTABA 2.4G FASST, Spec-R S1, Speed Passion SP-1, Sakura D3 FWD, Kyosho Evolva M3, Team Losi XX-4, Caster EX1.5R, HPI Wheelie King Crawler, Quanum Aquaholic, Joysway Wildcat
nrtv20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 12:00 PM   #38140
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
Stock classes are so fast anymore that their time splits to mod/13.5 are not that significant unless you have a big tracků 15 sec. a lap track would see a larger jump, 9-11 sec. laps not so much.
I guess it depends on what is considered "significant"
running 13.5 blinky in mod is quite a challenge, the mod cars are a few tenths quicker, and never fade

Mod is 1+ secs faster than 17.5 on our 90x45 rug
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 12:54 PM   #38141
Tech Elite
 
bkspeedo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Fort Fun, CO
Posts: 3,067
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I guess it depends on what is considered "significant"
running 13.5 blinky in mod is quite a challenge, the mod cars are a few tenths quicker, and never fade

Mod is 1+ secs faster than 17.5 on our 90x45 rug

At national events like IIC and Snowbirds the fast lap delta between 17.5 NT and Mod 12th is about 1.6sec and 8min race average it's about 1.7sec.

If you're only about 1sec between mod and 17.5 at TQ you better get to work son

I have a feeling 13.5NT to 17.5NT12th will be about .7 at IIC this year. 13.5 timing and 17.5 was about 1sec at Snowbirds and IIC last year.
__________________
Brent Klingforth
Sponsors: Awesomatix USA ~ Roche USA ~ ORCA ~ AVID Bearings ~ R1 Wurks
TQ Wire ~ ProtoForm ~ BSR Racing Tires ~ 2mm Design
5280raceway.com [Operated by - Colorado On-Road RC Club]
MILE HIGH INDOOR CHAMPS April 20-23rd 2017 @ www.milehighindoorchamps.com
bkspeedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 02:10 PM   #38142
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
At national events like IIC and Snowbirds the fast lap delta between 17.5 NT and Mod 12th is about 1.6sec and 8min race average it's about 1.7sec.

If you're only about 1sec between mod and 17.5 at TQ you better get to work son

I have a feeling 13.5NT to 17.5NT12th will be about .7 at IIC this year. 13.5 timing and 17.5 was about 1sec at Snowbirds and IIC last year.
If we had fresh rug like Some Tracks do, there would be more of a gap to mod

We just don't have enough grip on our 2+ yr old rug, can't even run Magenta anymore
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 02:20 PM   #38143
Tech Elite
 
bkspeedo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Fort Fun, CO
Posts: 3,067
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
If we had fresh rug like Some Tracks do, there would be more of a gap to mod

We just don't have enough grip on our 2+ yr old rug, can't even run Magenta anymore
What's the issue, tires fuzzing or gumming up really bad? Does Sean ever clean the carpet?
__________________
Brent Klingforth
Sponsors: Awesomatix USA ~ Roche USA ~ ORCA ~ AVID Bearings ~ R1 Wurks
TQ Wire ~ ProtoForm ~ BSR Racing Tires ~ 2mm Design
5280raceway.com [Operated by - Colorado On-Road RC Club]
MILE HIGH INDOOR CHAMPS April 20-23rd 2017 @ www.milehighindoorchamps.com
bkspeedo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 02:33 PM   #38144
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,634
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post

We just don't have enough grip on our 2+ yr old rug, can't even run Magenta anymore
2 years old IS fresh carpet. If you can't find grip, something is wrong. I often run on something like 8-9 year old carpet.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2012, 03:14 PM   #38145
Tech Addict
 
tim fry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 524
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

What seems to be the most common tyre choice for 17.5?
I know this is a bit open but I noticed from a few setups that black front and yellow rear seems to be a popular choice but is black for really high traction or am I missing something?
tim fry is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:53 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0