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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-01-2003, 07:41 PM   #3796
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Default 2nd times a charm!!

Thanks to everyone on here for your help!!

Went out Sat. at our local indoor track and had a much different experience than the first. The car was not twitchy in the way that I described before. It was fun trying to navigate the technical layout. I could only pull the trigger 100% on part of the straight before a 90deg into a 180deg. I had to "Marshall" myself a few times though. One of the guys suggested that the rear axle have some lateral "play" in it so as to reduce drag. He removed the shims on the left rear tire and adjusted the amount that the left hub screwed onto the axle, which allowed the rear axle to spin more freely (pinion removed) by hand. I found that after a run that the left wheel/hub had tightened up on the axle again creating the drag that I had noticed before too. Does anyone know how I can solve this problem? Also, I noticed that the kingpin of the right front scored the inside of the wheel. Does that mean that the wheel was warped? The left rear wheel is visibly warped . . . I'm guessing after side swiping a board.

John Robb
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Old 09-01-2003, 09:44 PM   #3797
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marvi: thanks for the info.

impact: thanks as well. actually im not totally new to 12th scale. i ran the class in the past but not that much. i actually reviving my rc12l3 and will take it for a spin tomorrow. anyway, i had a follow-up question in my previous post that you may have an answer to .....

Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
and do these color codes equate to what other manufacturers make? like, is a Jaco purple equal to a TRC pruple compound as well?

thanks!
also, how does the car react in terms of steering when you change spring tension in the front? like if i go stiffer will it make my car more responsive and give better turn in? ... i guess im just trying to validate if the same principles for sedan apply in 12 scale. common sense would lead me to think that they should be the same but who knows, maybe 12th scales are diffrent. my question comes after you mentioned that an all green foam combo works good but needs a stiffer spring? what were you trying to gain back or take aways by using a stiffer spring?
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Old 09-01-2003, 11:20 PM   #3798
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You are looking to take away some traction. Actually the effects that common since dictates a change should make are true to form with a 2wd pancar. With 4wd sedans things are scewed due to the extra 2 wheels that are driving the car.

TRC foams seem to be alittle stiffer shore rating than Jaco foams. Which means you will get a little less traction and a little better wear.... However the effects aren't too drastic.

Personally TRC foams seem to suit my style better.... and I like the Yellow wheels better too!!
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Old 09-02-2003, 12:00 AM   #3799
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John Robb:

Re: Axel play. If your car has those plastic oval/oblong-shaped height adjusters, make sure that they are fully seated into the recesses. I recently got a steal on a pro's car and noticed he had done ALOT of work (sanding) to make them fit right. If the height adjuster isn't fully seated, you will have clearance problems!
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Old 09-02-2003, 12:58 AM   #3800
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IMPACT: thanks again bud. your replies are all a big help. i hope to get into this class more thats why im trying to understand as much as i can from the beginning. a lot of my questions will probably seem trivial or basic but i dont wanna make any wrong assumptions from the on-set. i have no problems with dialing in a sedan and hope to be as confident at tuning a 12th in due time - and guys like you and the rest in this topic are always a good resource. add to that some track time and i'll surely get the hang of this. only reason i dint stay long in this class before was because there wern't that many guys running 12s before. however, now there is a big enough group for us to really get into this. thanks again! ... more questions to come, hope you guys wont mind.
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Old 09-02-2003, 04:43 AM   #3801
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Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
and do these color codes equate to what other manufacturers make? like, is a Jaco purple equal to a TRC pruple compound as well?

thanks!
F.Y.I

Visit http://www.jacoracing.com/FAQ.html .
The same question as you and its reply are described.
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Old 09-02-2003, 07:39 AM   #3802
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Graphitedust,

Thanks for the advice. Those plastic pieces have pushed in fully so they are flush with the inside of the bulkheads. Yeah, and I had to do some sanding to get those things to fit the right side properly. Funny - the left side did not need this done for any of th pieces so far. It's weird - to screw the left rear hub completely on the axle makes binds up the rear. If I loosen it it free wheels but will bind back up during the run.

Otherwise - the car was fun to drive and QUICK!

John Robb
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Old 09-02-2003, 08:16 AM   #3803
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john- As with all 12th scale rear axles, you need to properly shim it so that A) the wheels are spaced equidistance from the center line of the car B) there is no slop, and it doesnt bind.

the car should have come with shims, however if you need more they are very cheap and worth the money. you defently need to redo the shimming on your axle because you need to be able to tighten down the axle without it binding. the axle should spin freely with the tires on (without the motor connected), it should not bind.
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:19 AM   #3804
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Stormperson,

Thanks. I had wondered about rear tire spacing from the center line of chasis. I did buy shims earlier in order to run the TRC tires, so I do have some handy. The manual wasn't very clear about what you mentioned, and I try not to stray too far from the manual until I've had some experience with a car. I'll try your suggestions.

Anybody know what's the advantage/disadvantage of rear clamping hubs?

John Robb
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:21 AM   #3805
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John,

I was about to suggest you buy the IRS left side clamping hub. They are light and very effective at stopping the problem you are experiencing. It is all I've run for a long time.

Ray

Last edited by rayhuang; 09-02-2003 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:03 AM   #3806
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Ray,

Thank you. I'll look into it after trying to shim first. Also, I'll probably invest in the IRS rear pod. Supposedly, it allows about 2.5mm more ground clearance equaling longer rear tire life.

John
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:13 AM   #3807
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I have run an IRS rear pod and diff for the past two seasons, and could never think of going back.

While you do not want to run the tire down to the rim (since if your tire is too small it will not handle properly because the shore rating of the tire is no longer accurate because there isnt enough tire left), it does allow you to run your tires longer than the normal bulkheads. Also I picked up their new graphite axle'd 12 ball diff (I ran the fiberglass 12 ball last winter) this summer for the paved nats, and was very pleased. Any 12 ball diff is much better than the 6 ball diffs. They last 2-5x as long without needing a rebuild, so you will have a smooth diff for up to a month or two of weekly racing.

I would pick up the diff before the rear pod if you can only get one or the other.

However one key thing to note, if you do run an IRS axle with clamping hub, that does not mean you can run it without proper shimming. Well you can, however one of your tires might be offset, which will really throw off your handling. Also make sure you dont clamp it on so it is too tight and it will bind, or so it is too loose. There shouldnt be too much play just enough to keep it from binding.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:17 AM   #3808
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Originally posted by che
I have never seen an off road 1/12th pan car before

i was a kid about 14 or 15 years old and remember reading competetion plus or cant remember the name of the other magazine but they use to race 12 scale offroad with the associated 12i an 12e.
what they would do is flip the car up side down and put the electronics on what is normally the bottom of the car and mount some funky looking bodies and run them on a mild offroad track. i remember the pictures if i look hard i can probly find that issue iam 33 now and and have built up a preety large collection of old magazines, any body remember them doing this with 12 scales.
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Old 09-02-2003, 11:56 AM   #3809
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Stormperson,

I was actually thinking of getting the IRS conversion, axle, and diff after learning how to drive a 1/12 with the stock AE, maybe next season.

John
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Old 09-02-2003, 02:21 PM   #3810
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When I had that problem, it turned out to be a problem wit the threaded part, it was loose in the axle. I tried CAing it, but it was never really true again. So I just got the clamping hub, much easier (and lighter)
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