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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-06-2012, 10:04 AM   #38011
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Another tire question...

If you are gluing @ a big race, etc, is it common practice to glue the tires prior to truing? Or after? And do yall sand the glued area/sidewall on the truer to get a nice concentric thickness?
always after truing. the problem with gluing is that it is easy to mess up, or do differently tire after tire. it is really an art form.

gluing is only necessary for two reasons
1- your tires are tall and you don't want the fronts to bit too much (so why don't you just cut your one run tires smaller??)
2- your rear tires are peeling and your applying some safety glue (not all tire brands fall into this category)

ever since i switch over to BSR tires i've i haven't been gluing. the tire side walls are very short because of the big rim, and the glue job has been fantastic. taking one less step/potential failure point out of my race day.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:40 PM   #38012
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Hey guys I need some advice. I tend to think of myself as fairly knowledgeable when it comes to 12th set-up these days, but every time I go to a particular track I have huge problems with the car pushing on the high speed corners. I've even gone to the trouble of setting my car up identically to other cars there and it is clearly only a problem with my car. Pod movement is free and the vehicle is well maintained.

The track is a large outdoor track used for Nitro racing as well. When I race indoors I have no such problems.

The only thing I can think of is the diff setting. I tend to run the diff fairly tight. A lot of what I've read suggests that you should always set your diff the same way, while other people think it should be used as a tuning aid. Should I be running the diff looser outdoors for the high speed corners?
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:03 PM   #38013
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Being a big track, it's probably aero. Try a different body or the same body mounted farther forward. AMR12 can be very pushy in fast sweepers so if that's what you're running, try something else.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:52 PM   #38014
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I agree. Moving the body forward 1/8 makes a huge difference. It's surprising.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:45 AM   #38015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Being a big track, it's probably aero. Try a different body or the same body mounted farther forward. AMR12 can be very pushy in fast sweepers so if that's what you're running, try something else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
I agree. Moving the body forward 1/8 makes a huge difference. It's surprising.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Hey guys I need some advice. I tend to think of myself as fairly knowledgeable when it comes to 12th set-up these days, but every time I go to a particular track I have huge problems with the car pushing on the high speed corners. I've even gone to the trouble of setting my car up identically to other cars there and it is clearly only a problem with my car. Pod movement is free and the vehicle is well maintained.

The track is a large outdoor track used for Nitro racing as well. When I race indoors I have no such problems.

The only thing I can think of is the diff setting. I tend to run the diff fairly tight. A lot of what I've read suggests that you should always set your diff the same way, while other people think it should be used as a tuning aid. Should I be running the diff looser outdoors for the high speed corners?
In addition to Aero
Make sure you have enough ride height
Outdoor tracks mostly have more bumps than indoors, check the bottom of the chassis to see if it's dragging, that can cause all sort of handling issues
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:20 AM   #38016
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Thanks for the ideas. The bottom of the chassis looks clean, and I've tried 3 different bodies including the AMR, CRC Audi and Bomber R.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:21 PM   #38017
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Hello, I am new to the on-road seane and have a few questions. A local track will be re-opening soon (Coral Springs) and I would like to know what tires for 1/12 (gen-x) on asphalt, I should use. The tires I would like to use have shore ratings and I am clueless. Do to the fact that there is a limited number of on-road tracks in my area, I can not just go to a track and ask. I would also like to know what body would be good for this track. I was told by the race director that 1/12 would be 17.5 blinky.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #38018
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I would get Pink (30 shore) rear tires, and purple (40 shore) fronts. Both are natural rubber and have good abrasion resistance. The darker the color of the compound, the harder it is, hence white is softest and black/purple or even double purples are the hardest. I like to run a nice hard front tire, but not everybody agrees with me.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:24 PM   #38019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiostatechamp View Post
Hello, I am new to the on-road seane and have a few questions. A local track will be re-opening soon (Coral Springs) and I would like to know what tires for 1/12 (gen-x) on asphalt, I should use. The tires I would like to use have shore ratings and I am clueless. Do to the fact that there is a limited number of on-road tracks in my area, I can not just go to a track and ask. I would also like to know what body would be good for this track. I was told by the race director that 1/12 would be 17.5 blinky.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:17 PM   #38020
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subscribed.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:26 PM   #38021
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here is my homebuilt RC supra 1/12 scale
built for as part of my GCSE Engineering project
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-100520121320.jpg   1/12 forum-100520121321.jpg   1/12 forum-100520121309.jpg  
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:29 AM   #38022
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Turnigy TrackStar One Cell 120A 1/12th And 1/10th Scale Sensored Brushless Car ESC

is this likely to be ROAR approved?

website says
Quote:
Timing Indicator LED.
To conform with ROARs Sportsman Class racing rules and assist race organizers monitor driver compliance in non-timing modified race classes the TrackStar 1/10th ESC includes a timing mode indicator LED. At all times when the ESC is powered on and dynamic motor timing is set to a value greater than zero the white LED will illuminate indicating that the timing mode has been modified.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:04 AM   #38023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Question about tires at big races(IIC/Birds/etc)...

When you guys do "one-run" tires, do you scrub them in first? Or do you run them straight off the truer? And, if the latter, do you spend time smoothing them out with a finer grit file/sander/etc?
What also helps fresh tires is putting masking tape on the tread area and then pull it off. It gets all the loose rubber dust off and makes the tire come in much quicker.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:44 AM   #38024
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
What also helps fresh tires is putting masking tape on the tread area and then pull it off. It gets all the loose rubber dust off and makes the tire come in much quicker.
Hmmm... very interesting. Ive never heard of this before.

You just wrap the entire foam surface in masking tape after truing? Then pull it off right away?
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:58 AM   #38025
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I just blow the tires off with the air compressor after truing them.
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