R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-31-2012, 04:49 PM   #37951
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Default

novak speedo's are some of the best esc's made to date. run great in 1/12th with no problem either using their booster or run a rx pack. I use the 1 s havoc plenty of esc for 17.5 blinky all the way down to 10.5 blinky. I also have used the new havoc sc w/xdrive in mod 1/12th and been extremly pleased with it performance with 4.5.

today I ran my 1s kinetic with booster. fast enough to be.05 from tq and win against a few Roar national champs.

I would say buy novak first just because you can get them serviced here in states. Not many esc mfg's can say that today.
cookie1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 04:54 PM   #37952
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Default

heck if you don't want to run a booster or receiver pack novak esc also run on low voltage. only problem with low voltage is your servo won't be as fast as it can be. for beginners this sometimes is a plus.
cookie1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 11:07 PM   #37953
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cookie1 View Post
I would say buy novak first just because you can get them serviced here in states. Not many esc mfg's can say that today.
Novak stopped servicing speed controls years ago. Unless its under warranty (120days from date of purchase) where they'll replace it, you either have a choice of replacing it at a discounted cost or upgrading it at a slightly discounted cost. This has become the standard for all the speed control manufacturers. Its not worthwhile for them to pay a tech his time to repair one speed control when it is just cheaper for them to replace it.
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 10:54 AM   #37954
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, Any AE guys knows what length sensor wire to use with inline 12th car? My speed control and cap are in normal position and I have Reedy motor

They have an 85mm at shop but it seems little short

Thanks
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 12:27 PM   #37955
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I used a 100mm wire with my inline R5.1... assuming you have the speedo closest to the tweak/side brace, it should fit perfectly.
JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 07:52 PM   #37956
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
I used a 100mm wire with my inline R5.1... assuming you have the speedo closest to the tweak/side brace, it should fit perfectly.
Thanks you for your answer
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 02:14 PM   #37957
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default Trying to figure out what car I have.

Okay, I thought the car I have was a Speedmerchant Rev, but after looking at the lower pod plate, I'm beginning to wonder.

The lower pod plate on all the Speedmerchant Rev have a diagonal cut. The cut on the pod plate on my car is straight like stubby fingers. Also the chassis material is the black laminated sheet graphite not woven. It originally came with a tweek plate and top pod plate for a single tube side dampener and a 2-bolt rear axle.

When I thought it was a Speedmerchant, I was able to get a Speedmerchant tweak plate and top pod plate for dual side dampeners to fit. However then again, I probably would have been able to do the same with CRC parts for a Carpet Knife since they both are based on a pod for a 12L2/3.

I'm just curious as to what this car was originally. Could this have been a Trinity car? I couldn't find any link cars made by them through Google.


BTW, I just finished wiring in the Tekin RS but I still need the booster for it.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-rc12-1.jpg   1/12 forum-rc12-2.jpg   1/12 forum-rc12-3.jpg  
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 04:22 PM   #37958
Tech Master
 
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,141
Default

Looks like an early CRC to me.
__________________
Lonny
LonnyJ1950 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 04:46 PM   #37959
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,837
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

nm...

Last edited by RCBuddha; 04-09-2012 at 05:46 PM.
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 05:55 PM   #37960
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 734
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Original speedmerchant Carpet knife. With an ae strut front end.
JoelV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 07:16 PM   #37961
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Looks like an early CRC to me.
Okay, at first I thought it was but it didn't have the diamond shaped cuts in the chassis like the newer CRC chassis. Then when I saw the Speedmerchant Rev2 and Rev3, those had the same shape cut in the front between the suspension blocks but like I said it has different lower pod plate.

Just Googled again under Carpet Knife V1 and found this:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1255
So it was a Carpet Knife as I had thought at first.

I guess early on both CRC and Speedmerchant were very similar in design. So who was the original and who was the spin-off?
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 05:04 PM   #37962
Tech Adept
 
btsai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 132
Default

Anyone know why there is no 12R5 listed on the Associated web site now??
btsai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 05:35 PM   #37963
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by btsai View Post
Anyone know why there is no 12R5 listed on the Associated web site now??
It's listed in the discontinued area

There are still many available
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 05:35 PM   #37964
AOD
Tech Regular
 
AOD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: 9th Island
Posts: 471
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by btsai View Post
Anyone know why there is no 12R5 listed on the Associated web site now??
5.2 is coming.
AOD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 05:37 PM   #37965
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 734
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

It's there, just listed under discontinued.

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a.../Factory_Team/
JoelV is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:11 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0