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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-29-2003, 11:16 AM   #3781
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Guys... any diff lube for gas cars will work, it does not need to be made by Ofna.

100,000 wt... that might be a little TOO THICK.

If you can drive it with that, more power to ya.

Eric
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Old 08-29-2003, 12:01 PM   #3782
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fike i didnt mean to insinuate just ofna but there are other brans out its just what poped up in my mind at moment, but they do have a nice viscosity rating and a broud range from thick to thin.
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Old 08-29-2003, 02:28 PM   #3783
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speedxl: no problem, I wasn't offened or anything.

E
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Old 08-29-2003, 02:35 PM   #3784
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i am trying to type as fast as i think.
hey new moto for this forum should be
12 SCALE FOR LIFE !
what do you think!
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Old 08-29-2003, 03:12 PM   #3785
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HeY! I'm wondering what would be a good 1/12 scale car to get started w/ for on-road??? Also for about how much would it cost??? Ummmm i'd also like to know if it's hard to keep the pack make threw out the whole race and how often would i have to rebuild the diffs, and the shocks??? My last question is if it's funner then 1/10 scale and is it cheaper??? and thanx to all who will help me!!!
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:01 PM   #3786
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshR 85
HeY! I'm wondering what would be a good 1/12 scale car to get started w/ for on-road??? Also for about how much would it cost??? Ummmm i'd also like to know if it's hard to keep the pack make threw out the whole race and how often would i have to rebuild the diffs, and the shocks??? My last question is if it's funner then 1/10 scale and is it cheaper??? and thanx to all who will help me!!!
I have never seen an off road 1/12th pan car before
"rebuild the diff's" .. only one diff, build it correct and it will last a while.
"and the shocks" ... usually only one shock to deal with (centre).
"is if it's funner then 1/10 scale and is it cheaper" usually less expensive (less wear and tear, easier on batts/mottor).
If it is set-up properly it is an absolute blast!


"Also for about how much would it cost" ...
Like anything else in this hobby, about as much as you are willing to spend!
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:46 PM   #3787
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Quote:
Originally posted by che
I have never seen an off road 1/12th pan car before
CHE- I don't see anyone asking about off-road 1/12th??? BTW: yes they have built a few 1/12th off-road cars thru the years, none have been produced or ever meant for racing purploses....

BTW: they weren't pancars through....
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Old 08-30-2003, 09:20 PM   #3788
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Losi is making an mini off road xxx-t. not sure what scale its supposed to be, but its smaller. They have a pic in the new rcca.
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Old 08-31-2003, 10:02 PM   #3789
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HeY!!! thanx alot for the info and i thought it would be a little more difficult then what it sounds. i also heard about the mini losi off-road xxx-t and i think it's like 1/16, or 1/32 i heard that from a freind so i dk all i know is that it's gonna be tight.
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Old 08-31-2003, 11:20 PM   #3790
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Default Best motor

What would you guys say is the best motor for 1/12 scale 4cell racing? What type of armature, brushes and springs do you use?

I've heard that the new Reedy Kr is no good for 1/12 4cell because of the laydown brushes.
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Old 09-01-2003, 12:27 AM   #3791
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i just need some help here guys. i know this is a basic question but unfortunatley i am not familiar with foams yet since i only recently started 12th scale and run only rubber in sedan.

anyway, what are the shore ratings of the following compounds:
-jaco green
-jaco blue
-jaco purple
-jaco white
-jaco gray

and do these color codes equate to what other manufacturers make? like, is a Jaco purple equal to a TRC pruple compound as well?

thanks!
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Old 09-01-2003, 01:37 AM   #3792
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Default JACO COMPOUND INFORMATION

Roborat: here's a list that ive copied from one of my proline/jaco cardboard tags ...

yellow = soft (20) = high wear/very good traction
green = medium (25) = high wear/very good traction
blue rears = firm (30) = moderate wear/good traction
blue fronts = very firm (40+) = low wear/good traction
blue/orange = med-firm (30-40) = moderate wear/poor traction
aqua = medium-firm (27) = moderate wear/very good traction
white = medium-soft (25) = moderate wear/excellent traction
grey = medium (30+) = moderate wear/excellent traction
pink = soft (25) = excellent wear/excellent traction
purple = medium (40) = excellet wear/very good traction
red = firm (40+) = excellent wear/moderate traction
silver = soft (20) = very good wear/very good traction
gold = medium (25) = very good wear/very good traction

for carpet/asphalt application = yellow, green, blue rears, blue fronts
for carpet application = blue/orange, white, grey
for asphalt special application = aqua
for asphalt application = pink
for asphalt/carpet application = purple, red
for dusty asphalt application = silver, gold
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Old 09-01-2003, 09:09 AM   #3793
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In general I have found that with a stock motor....

on asphalt

purple/pink- works best good traction, great wear

green/green- works well, with higher wear, and needs stiffer front springs

Blue/green- almost as good as purple/pink- higher wear- slightly less traction

On carpet

Purple/grey- works best, great traction, great wear

blue/green- works almost as good as purple/grey, higher wear

However as with anything if the tuning is off even the best tire set-up the car will be aweful... and even with the wrong tire set-up the car can be tuned to be managable, even fast..... but using the proper tires makes tuning alot easier.....

Purple/
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Old 09-01-2003, 10:37 AM   #3794
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Go to www.teamcrc.com, and look at tech info. They have an excellent description of the different kinds of foam, and what they do. The shore isnt the only thing you need to look at
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:08 PM   #3795
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I was looking to get an IRS axle kit for my Rev3 and I was wondering what some of you guys use. I see that have a Big D ring and the ultimate II and some others, any info would be great.

Also what sixe bearing does the Rev3 have in the axle and front wheel bearings. Thanks.
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