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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-19-2012, 02:19 PM   #37876
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Here are pics of the 1/12 Scale Modified Pan Car A-Main winners at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals last weekend.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:25 PM   #37877
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I wanted to go, but I had other responsibilities that I couldn't get around...

Curse you, Day Job, if not for you I may have been a great toy car racer!!!
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:01 PM   #37878
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
If it's that important to run them to the rim, try tires with larger rims, like CRC or Enneti. What kind of car is it anyway that can't run to the rim and make ride height?
BMI DB12RR It has the old AE reactive caster front end from a 12L3/4. Should I switch it back to the IRS front end that was on it?
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:08 PM   #37879
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Had my front tires at 43mm. Then after having worn off about 1mm, took off all the shims under the front end and now I am not able to make 3.5mm in front end ride height. In fact its just under 3mm.

At this point how do I get more ride height?

There's still some rubber left in the tires are they done?

Do I need to consider a different front end that will allow me to run the tires all the way to the rim?
That BMi you have, may have an old associated front end on it, that could be the problem.
They were made for smaller wheels back then.
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:19 PM   #37880
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
BMI DB12RR It has the old AE reactive caster front end from a 12L3/4. Should I switch it back to the IRS front end that was on it?
If you like it keep using it, but I know IRS makes lower A-arms for that car that have had the mount posts milled an extra 1.5mm or so, allowing you to run the tire to the rim and still get the ride height. I use them on my car.

WHERE I GOT MINE FROM!!!
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:25 PM   #37881
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Here's the video of 1/12 scale A2 Main during the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals held in Dallas, TX last Sunday --> http://youtu.be/a-wIjF0IQe8.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:30 PM   #37882
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Anyone get some close up pics of the new prototype Associated this weekend @ Nats?

I only caught a few glimpses... looked like a new rear pod and damper tubes.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:00 PM   #37883
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Originally Posted by wwddww34 View Post
Here's the video of 1/12 scale A2 Main during the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals held in Dallas, TX last Sunday --> http://youtu.be/a-wIjF0IQe8.

That is actually Q2 not A2 Nice video though. Wouldnt mind seeing some of the other races or quals. Are they going to be all posted some where?
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:25 PM   #37884
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Default C.Andy's RC-Car Prototypes

Today is a good day

I just received a parcel from Germany from Andy @ C.Andy's RC-Car Prototypes.

This is his new C1 Tire Grinding tool for the Hudy Machine.
It is simply AWESOME !
Ran the tool through a box of rear wheels from...
CRC, Jaco, Exceed, Enetti, TRC & Gravity RC
It worked perfectly true on them all

No more playing around to get the wheel lined up correctly
Just bolt on and go

Perfect every time
This tool even reveals run-out on nib wheels

Thank you Andy.
Well done sir



http://rccarprototypes.de/pages/produkte.php
Quote:
The tool is designed for the Hudy Tire Grinding Machine.
1/12th adapter is designed and in place of the outer fixing nut screwed on.

The 3 stainless-steel locking pin mimics 3 screws used to fasten the wheel.

A plastic nut prevents overspeeding and thus a warp of the rim, so the trued tires have a high concentricity and provide a smooth ride !

This tool is suitable for Hudy Pan Car Adapter!
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-reifentool.jpg  
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:40 PM   #37885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Today is a good day

I just received a parcel from Germany from Andy @ C.Andy's RC-Car Prototypes.

This is his new C1 Tire Grinding tool for the Hudy Machine.
It is simply AWESOME !
Ran the tool through a box of rear wheels from...
CRC, Jaco, Exceed, Enetti, TRC & Gravity RC
It worked perfectly true on them all

No more playing around to get the wheel lined up correctly
Just bolt on and go

Perfect every time
This tool even reveals run-out on nib wheels

Thank you Andy.
Well done sir



http://rccarprototypes.de/pages/produkte.php
Dude looks awesome

Does it work for ft's or just rears?

Nice find

p.s What is runout?

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Old 03-20-2012, 10:44 AM   #37886
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
BMI DB12RR It has the old AE reactive caster front end from a 12L3/4. Should I switch it back to the IRS front end that was on it?
The BMI front end as delivered comes with the IRS lowered arms,
you should have no trouble running the tires down to plastic and make ride height on the front and rear.

i have some used arms laying around somewhere you can try. Next time i get to TQ i will leave them with Dave or Sean if you aren't there.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:07 AM   #37887
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
The BMI front end as delivered comes with the IRS lowered arms,
you should have no trouble running the tires down to plastic and make ride height on the front and rear.

i have some used arms laying around somewhere you can try. Next time i get to TQ i will leave them with Dave or Sean if you aren't there.
Thanks. I won't be at TQ this weekend because its going to be jam packed for the series final. May go there on the next race day at the start of the next series in April.

Just looked over the BMI instructions again and found out why my rear end was so stiff. Turns out the tweak screws are not needed because the rear end renders the chassis tweakless. Hopefully by loosening the rear end I'll gain some more corner speed.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:01 PM   #37888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Today is a good day

I just received a parcel from Germany from Andy @ C.Andy's RC-Car Prototypes.

This is his new C1 Tire Grinding tool for the Hudy Machine.
It is simply AWESOME !
Ran the tool through a box of rear wheels from...
CRC, Jaco, Exceed, Enetti, TRC & Gravity RC
It worked perfectly true on them all

No more playing around to get the wheel lined up correctly
Just bolt on and go

Perfect every time
This tool even reveals run-out on nib wheels

Thank you Andy.
Well done sir



http://rccarprototypes.de/pages/produkte.php
That's a great idea! I was trying to make something like that using a left side hub but couldn't get it to work right...how do I get me one of them?
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:06 PM   #37889
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
BMI DB12RR It has the old AE reactive caster front end from a 12L3/4. Should I switch it back to the IRS front end that was on it?
Which ride height adapters are you using for the front? When I ran the stock front end I could easily make ride height with the BMI machined front spacers. How much droop do you have in the front? Maybe your springs are too compressed?

The IRS front end works well...RacerRobert ran his at the IIC and did very well. I'd still be running mine if I hadn't stacked it hard into a wall and bent up the upper mount.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #37890
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Which ride height adapters are you using for the front? When I ran the stock front end I could easily make ride height with the BMI machined front spacers. How much droop do you have in the front? Maybe your springs are too compressed?
Front droop? How do you measure that? Also, how is it adjusted? What effects results from having more or less front droop?
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