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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-15-2012, 09:21 PM   #37861
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I cut my teeth at the same club you did (CAR) so your aware of the people that raced there, learned a lot there too bad I can't seem to put it all into practice...lol

I never mess with the d/r either always made the are unperdictable to me.
I started out in S.C.A.R but yea we have those timeless old school Jedi 12th scale ways and they are still respected in a 12th scale galaxy far far away but come say hi to me at Norcal Hobbies some time

I have my 12th ready to roll pretty much

Waiting for some rear pinks to come in but yea who want's some ...lol

12th scale forever = hence Infinite 12th

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p.s. I barely mess with d/r but have turned to the d/r side of the force a little ..lol
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:01 PM   #37862
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Originally Posted by oXYnary View Post
I still disagree on a personal level. Even if its slight like you only have a 3% fade, thats still 3% you could dial back in slowly over time. Giving you that much more concentration to race versus having to learn when to slightly turn in more or less during the race. Or having a button that you have to touch during the straight to suddenly give you more at once versus having it happen over time.

The Enduro mention is another area, or long 8th scale mains.
imo.
If you are turning the wheel on the controller to it's end points, and then needing more, or less at some point during an 8m run, that is a case of your style, and, or, your setup not tuned for 8m.

I used to do the same thing.
Now it's rare to use that much throw, and only when there is a setup issue.
That last little bit of wheel throw should pitch the car sideways if need be.

Mostly, setting the car to cut clean laps for 8m with a 3ft turning radius is money.

This should never be an issue in blinky, but in mod it can be tricky to find that 8m balance on med grip club racing rug.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:57 PM   #37863
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I've always felt that having a bit too MUCH steering is better than not having enough. Just dial it out with your steering input rather than with the radio.

My end-points rarely exceed 60% and I always have MORE steering than I actually need. I just don't go "full-lock" on the steering wheel. That way if the car happens to lose a little steering towards the end of the run, it feels natural to give it a bit more wheel. Never really seems to affect my concentration, or laptimes. Of course, if it does start to push a bit before the end of the 8, I start looking at my set-up to fix it.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:20 AM   #37864
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imo.
If you are turning the wheel on the controller to it's end points, and then needing more, or less at some point during an 8m run, that is a case of your style, and, or, your setup not tuned for 8m.

And when you have the opposite? C'mon, you can't tell me with a straight face that having to readjust your corner entry and exit during the race does not combat with your concentration. Yes, setup counts. But as established. Fade happens. Period.

You don't want to rely on having something to help make the car feel more consistent past the fade. Thats your prerogative. But if your going to be a "purest" like that. Please take all drag brake out of your car, and go back to a non proportional throttle setup like original 1/12ths had to contend with.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:23 AM   #37865
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And when you have the opposite? C'mon, you can't tell me with a straight face that having to readjust your corner entry and exit during the race does not combat with your concentration. Yes, setup counts. But as established. Fade happens. Period.

You don't want to rely on having something to help make the car feel more consistent past the fade. Thats your prerogative. But if your going to be a "purest" like that. Please take all drag brake out of your car, and go back to a non proportional throttle setup like original 1/12ths had to contend with.
Are we talking about blinky or mod ?
I never, ever run drag brake in blinky

The only fade is battery
.5s in the last minute compared to the fast lap

After a few laps, the car normally works the same for the rest of the race.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:28 AM   #37866
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Originally Posted by oXYnary View Post
And when you have the opposite? C'mon, you can't tell me with a straight face that having to readjust your corner entry and exit during the race does not combat with your concentration. Yes, setup counts. But as established. Fade happens. Period.

You don't want to rely on having something to help make the car feel more consistent past the fade. Thats your prerogative. But if your going to be a "purest" like that. Please take all drag brake out of your car, and go back to a non proportional throttle setup like original 1/12ths had to contend with.
I've raced on a track or two that might give up some rear grip in MOD, but in anything less than 13.5 BOOSTED, rear grip has NEVER been an issue for me.

And honestly, the only time it really affects my concentration is when the loss of grip (at either end) comes on suddenly. If it happens gradually, as the term fade suggests, it's pretty easy for me to deal with, but I have been racing 12th scale for 20+ years......
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:12 AM   #37867
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Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
Call me crazy, but I use the end points to set the end points.


Put dual rate at max (150% on a M11X) then set EPA, and turn down dual rate to the setting that suits you, this way you can NEVER go beyond whats physical possible on your car, to avoid the steering servo to lock-up and eventually kill your bec of your ESC.....
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:25 PM   #37868
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hello i need some help is a crc gen xi any good
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:26 PM   #37869
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hello i need some help is a crc gen xi any good
It's a great car, there are no true duds in 12th scale racing

Check the 12th info link in my sig for tons of stuff 12th scale related.
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:11 AM   #37870
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hello i need some help is a crc gen xi any good
It is a great car, in fact no bad 1/12 pan car, what influences the choice of car is really the local popularity and parts availability.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:40 AM   #37871
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crc 1/12 and 1/10 scale cars are great cars to have. you cant go wrong with them and parts are plentyful and easy to get.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:46 PM   #37872
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Had my front tires at 43mm. Then after having worn off about 1mm, took off all the shims under the front end and now I am not able to make 3.5mm in front end ride height. In fact its just under 3mm.

At this point how do I get more ride height?

There's still some rubber left in the tires are they done?

Do I need to consider a different front end that will allow me to run the tires all the way to the rim?
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:01 PM   #37873
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Had my front tires at 43mm. Then after having worn off about 1mm, took off all the shims under the front end and now I am not able to make 3.5mm in front end ride height. In fact its just under 3mm.

At this point how do I get more ride height?

There's still some rubber left in the tires are they done?

Do I need to consider a different front end that will allow me to run the tires all the way to the rim?
What ride height block are you running? I have run 41mm tires with 4mm clearance using the 3mm blocks (ish)
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:01 PM   #37874
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If it's that important to run them to the rim, try tires with larger rims, like CRC or Enneti. What kind of car is it anyway that can't run to the rim and make ride height?
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:18 PM   #37875
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Here are some pics of the 1/12 Scale 17.5 Spec Pan Car A-Main winners at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals last weekend.
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