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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-15-2012, 01:51 PM   #37846
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I find expo almost (almost, but not quite) useless. Dual rate is a much better adjustment and usually adjustable via a thumb wheel or button.
Argh! Thats what I meant! *hits head on desk*
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:54 PM   #37847
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Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
Thatís a very interesting request; never thought about that one before. The main thing I want out of radio manufactures is a AMB transponder built into ALL receivers.
But I also would like a cheap portable AMB timing set up so I can use it at home with friends.
+1
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:54 PM   #37848
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Why don't you just work on your car setup so that it doesn't fade and/or you don't need expo to drive it?
All cars fade. Even yours. Maybe not as much as others. But over the time the steering characteristics change.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:04 PM   #37849
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I use expo to set the end points so I don't over stress the servo or have it stress the suspension trying by trying to steer past the physical limits of the suspension. After that I use just dual rate for tuning.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #37850
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I use expo to set the end points so I don't over stress the servo or have it stress the suspension trying by trying to steer past the physical limits of the suspension. After that I use just dual rate for tuning.
Call me crazy, but I use the end points to set the end points.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:28 PM   #37851
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Originally Posted by oXYnary View Post
All cars fade. Even yours. Maybe not as much as others. But over the time the steering characteristics change.
In my honest opinion, your car should not fade badly enough over the course of 8 minutes that you need to consistently change dual rate to account for said fade.

I can entirely understand testing different setups and maybe getting 7 minutes in and realizing you want another couple clicks of dual rate to try to get more steering back, for instance if you are playing around with dope timing. But consistently needing to change dual rate over the course of every 8 minute run, to the point where you think it should be a feature implemented in radios? That sounds like problems that could first be addressed through chassis setup changes.

I think it is an interesting idea, don't get me wrong, and I think it could truly be useful in Enduro events where tire and chassis fade are significant. I just think that with regards to 12th scale racing it is indicative of other problems that are a lot easier to solve than what you are requesting, that's all.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:34 PM   #37852
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I personally Run the Futaba 3pm and the Dual rate switch is located just on my thumb of my trigger hand and I find I can only adjust it down the straight and even then my attention diverts and I stop steering properly and can never get a fast lap while changing settings


But I can change them so that's ok too.


I would like to see something easier to switch or automatic as no matter what you do on low traction surfaces you will need more steering over the course of a race.


Cheers
We practice for all kinds of reasons, adjusting your radio while racing is something you can spend time on so it doesnt affect your laptimes as much.

I have seen some cheap radios from HK, that had two settings for Dual rate, and a switch on the thumb. I thought it was quite neat. Set the early part of the race to say 80%, then the second half to 60% when the tires gum, and just switch between the two settings.

I did the practice to be able to adjust my Helios on the fly, takes a bit of getting use to, but once your comfortable with it, should be quite easy. Ive now added the brakes to the second thumb button, so i can adjust either, had to use this a few times!
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:43 PM   #37853
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I started off racing carpet oval way back in the day on a track that didn't allow sauce. You absolutely HAD to crank up the dual rate for the first few laps or the car would not turn. After a couple laps, you could dial it ALL out so just the tiniest amount of angle on the front tires was all it took to get around. Got used to adjusting on the fly pretty quick.

Then there is 1/8th onroad where brake fade can be an issue. Fortunately, I have a button for that too.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #37854
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Seems like a crutch to me. Why not just turn the wheel less when traction is up then turn more when it is needed? Same with the trigger, these things aren't on/off switches.
Maybe I'm too old, but that's how I learned and was taught by racers in my area at the time. Names many would recognise.
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:07 PM   #37855
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Call me crazy, but I use the end points to set the end points.
D'oh! You are correct sir! I always called it steering curve and often get exponential and EPA confused.
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:52 PM   #37856
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Originally Posted by HawaiiBob View Post
Seems like a crutch to me. Why not just turn the wheel less when traction is up then turn more when it is needed? Same with the trigger, these things aren't on/off switches.
Maybe I'm too old, but that's how I learned and was taught by racers in my area at the time. Names many would recognise.
Nah, your too young and hypocritical. Because your same argument could be used for having a computerized radio, ability to adjust dual rate, drag brake, etc. at all with the original controllers used in our sport. Things we take for granted these days.
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:57 PM   #37857
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I think it is an interesting idea, don't get me wrong, and I think it could truly be useful in Enduro events where tire and chassis fade are significant. I just think that with regards to 12th scale racing it is indicative of other problems that are a lot easier to solve than what you are requesting, that's all.
I still disagree on a personal level. Even if its slight like you only have a 3% fade, thats still 3% you could dial back in slowly over time. Giving you that much more concentration to race versus having to learn when to slightly turn in more or less during the race. Or having a button that you have to touch during the straight to suddenly give you more at once versus having it happen over time.

The Enduro mention is another area, or long 8th scale mains.
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:10 PM   #37858
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Originally Posted by HawaiiBob View Post
Seems like a crutch to me. Why not just turn the wheel less when traction is up then turn more when it is needed? Same with the trigger, these things aren't on/off switches.
Maybe I'm too old, but that's how I learned and was taught by racers in my area at the time. Names many would recognise.
Your not the only one who learned to adjust yourself or car not the radio

But these times they are a changin ...lol

Sometimes I turn down my d/r a little but never mess with expo stuff

Maybe you are too old ...lol

JK
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:51 PM   #37859
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My problem is always the opposite, the car goes loose toward the back end of the race and I have to turn down the steering throw.
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:59 PM   #37860
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Your not the only one who learned to adjust yourself or car not the radio

But these times they are a changin ...lol

Sometimes I turn down my d/r a little but never mess with expo stuff

Maybe you are too old ...lol

JK
I cut my teeth at the same club you did (CAR) so your aware of the people that raced there, learned a lot there too bad I can't seem to put it all into practice...lol

I never mess with the d/r either always made the are unperdictable to me.
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