R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #37801
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default Receiver Wire Repair

Has anyone sent their Futaba receiver in to get new antenna?

How much was it and how long did it take?

Pre-emptive thanks
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 04:57 PM   #37802
Tech Regular
 
Misiek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Has anyone sent their Futaba receiver in to get new antenna?

How much was it and how long did it take?

Pre-emptive thanks
You can get a replacement antenna http://www.ebay.com/itm/Futaba-Repla...item35b124069a and do it yourself.
You can google it or youtube it how to do it...shouldn't be too hard
__________________
________________________________________________________
On paternity leave...
Misiek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 05:24 PM   #37803
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 328
Trader Rating: 3 (80%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Has anyone sent their Futaba receiver in to get new antenna?

How much was it and how long did it take?

Pre-emptive thanks
Once you open the recievers case the antenna just pulls straight off with no problems no need to send in. Actually I know people that run there futaba recievers without the antenna wire to make that clean wiring job with no ill affect to signal at all,used on indoor carpet race's.This is on the newer recievers614 i believe is part# but I have tried it with the older bigger recievers and it works as well.
traitor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 05:24 PM   #37804
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 328
Trader Rating: 3 (80%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Has anyone sent their Futaba receiver in to get new antenna?

How much was it and how long did it take?

Pre-emptive thanks
Once you open the recievers case the antenna just pulls straight off with no problems no need to send in. Actually I know people that run there futaba recievers without the antenna wire to make that clean wiring job with no ill affect to signal at all,used on indoor carpet race's.This is on the newer recievers 614 I believe is part# but I have tried it with the older bigger recievers and it works as well.
traitor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2012, 05:43 PM   #37805
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by traitor View Post
Once you open the recievers case the antenna just pulls straight off with no problems no need to send in. Actually I know people that run there futaba recievers without the antenna wire to make that clean wiring job with no ill affect to signal at all,used on indoor carpet race's.This is on the newer recievers 614 I believe is part# but I have tried it with the older bigger recievers and it works as well.
Just an inch of the tip is about to brake off, but if it doesn't matter I'll just leave it ...lol

I sent an e-mail to Futaba to see how much a new antenna is

Thanks for your answer
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 10:35 AM   #37806
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Futaba e-mailed me back and it would be almost 40 dollars total to replace antenna ...lol New receiver cost is $49.00

Antenna = $7.90

Labor is $40 an hour with a 1/2 minimum = $20.00

$9.99 return postage for ground service here in the US.

$7.90
$20.00
$9.99
+
______
$37.89

so $11.11 more dollars and I could have a brand new one ...lol

E-mailed them how much total to send antenna to me
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 11:21 AM   #37807
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,377
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If you have steady hands and a point-tip for your iron, you can slap any piece of wire you like (I once saw an antenna that was replaced just to be color-correct) onto the solder point and it will function as an antenna...
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 11:41 AM   #37808
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default Grease tubes

What grease do you guys use in the grease tubes for the side dampeners?

AE black diff grease?

AE clear diff grease?
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 02:23 PM   #37809
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,660
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
What grease do you guys use in the grease tubes for the side dampeners?

AE black diff grease?

AE clear diff grease?

Shur Lubehttp://www.windtunnelracingproducts....products_id=57
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 03:27 PM   #37810
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
What grease do you guys use in the grease tubes for the side dampeners?

AE black diff grease?

AE clear diff grease?
for the damper tubes, use Diff Lube, to get going 15,000 is a common choice. Losi, Assosciated, Mugen, Kyosho, Ofna, Xceed all list the thickness in centipoise. pick a bottle shape you like. the assosciated's bottle blew the cap off.

most use diff lube on the front kingpins, although Vdesizn suggests black grease on the kingpins for smooth action and no damping.
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 03:36 PM   #37811
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
for the damper tubes, use Diff Lube, to get going 15,000 is a common choice. Losi, Assosciated, Mugen, Kyosho, Ofna, Xceed all list the thickness in centipoise. pick a bottle shape you like. the assosciated's bottle blew the cap off.

most use diff lube on the front kingpins, although Vdesizn suggests black grease on the kingpins for smooth action and no damping.
Where can I find the 15000 lube? I found 5k, 10k, 20k and 30k lube.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...p_keyword=lube
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 04:20 PM   #37812
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Where can I find the 15000 lube? I found 5k, 10k, 20k and 30k lube.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...p_keyword=lube
http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...=losi+diff+oil
JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #37813
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Where can I find the 15000 lube? I found 5k, 10k, 20k and 30k lube.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...p_keyword=lube
nothing wrong with the CRC product, and nothing cut in stone for 15,000.

if you try 10k and 20k, and want in between then use 10 on one tube and 20 on the other.

i think 30k and up are less popular with 1/12 since the demise of nimh 4cell.
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 08:10 PM   #37814
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,377
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

30,000wt isn't dead, I use it all the time, both in the rear tubes and on the front kingpins of my car.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 09:10 PM   #37815
Tech Master
 
Josh-n-ya's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 1,991
Trader Rating: 70 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
30,000wt isn't dead, I use it all the time, both in the rear tubes and on the front kingpins of my car.
I use 20,000 to 30,000wt myself all the time to and no problems. It's Alive!!!
Josh-n-ya is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:10 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0