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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-28-2003, 08:47 PM   #3766
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
racer dx i run a yokomo yr12 and it runs very good in stock these cars can take a beating more so than any touring car ! except for an hpi car, man the kids can beat them to death and they run forever. but anyway sounds to me that you might be doing something wrong during assembly or your trigger finger stays full noodle when your car is driving fast straight into the wall . all cars once set up only require small adjustments once youve found the basic setup that works for you. granted there are some situations that are very rare and requires wierd adjustments. some cars like mine no matter what you do to them wont work in certain situations like mine that the chassis is to thin to run on carpet because it has flex built into it for asphalt.
Just for the record. When my car hops on a wrinkle in the carpet and kinda bumps the sweeper, of course I'm on full thottle, thats only like 2 thirds of the way down the straight. And even if I let off the thottle before I hit the pipes it still would be going about the same speed. But I do kinda see your point here though because crashes are always less worse when your not on the thottle.

How do you guys make sure your tweak is set right? I was told buy a guy at my track that you put a hobby knife in the exact center of your car at the front and lift the front of the car up. And which ever wheel lifts first you loosen that same sides tweak spring a little bit . Or mabey I have that backwards. But anyway, when I get the two front wheels to lift off the set up board at the same time, the right side of the front of the chassis is jacked up about a MM over the other side . And I can't figure it out. Also the back of the chassis on the right side sits above the bottom plate on the rear pod. But the left side is perfect . I would really really like some help here. And if it is my chassis that's tweaked than that sucks because it's been that way since the first time that my buddy adjusted the tweak. So this has been confusing me for a long time, but I was just too stupid to not mention it for a long time . Thanks for any help here.
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:49 PM   #3767
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racerdx ive never run anything other than a t plate car i would think its a lot less prone to brake than a linkage car
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:01 PM   #3768
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robk - I run the IRS prototype suspension pieces on the front of my Speedmerchant REV3. I like it a lot. Dave has said that it will be a little while longer before he can distribute production units. I think he was talking about a little before Thanksgiving, which is the Indoor Champs at Cleveland. He also said the parts would not be cheap. I don't have a clue of the prices for this thing, but I do know that they are currently all machined. I don't think there will be molds made by Cleveland, so I think that the ones you will be able to purchase will also be machined.
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:02 PM   #3769
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i set the tweak by putting car on a flat surface place coins on both front wheels and lift the car with a blade carefully which ever coin falls first is the light side. the side that fell first is the side you tighten down remember to lift the car slowly or buy a tweak board which i only use for touring car anyways
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:21 PM   #3770
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Defently want to use the pennies or the IRS (shameless plug, even though I dont run the car or run for them, lol ) scales which should set you back quite a little (on the other hand two pennies will cost you... two pennies ). The tweak boards are designed for sedans and really arent sensative enough to provide you with precise enough tweak measurements. Also its very important, make sure the surface you are tweaking on is level. you can use the level from a buddies tweak board, or go buy a level at a hardware store to judge to see if the surface is perfectly horizontal. If you need to adjust your board, your buddy Abe will come in handy again... just place him or one of his other metallically immortalized friends in a corner of the board to raise it to make the rest level.

Also the plastic peice, I think, think (so dont quote) is an AE piece that is used to hold the t-bar in place.
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:23 PM   #3771
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But if you put the coins on the front wheels won't the wheels just spin when you lift the car. I guess I'll just have to try it . Here's another thing that happened a while ago before I first adjusted the tweak. I just got back from racing sedans one night before I had the electronics for my carpet knife (but of course I brought it anyway to show off ). When I got home my sister pulled her backpack out of the car and it hooked my new 12th scale and pulled onto the street. The only thing that happened was that the aluminum spring retainer on the shock popped off the shaft. But that was the only visible damage done. Do you guys think that the chassis could of been tweaked from that. It fell out of a surburban so it was probably about a 1.5 foot drop or so.
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:26 PM   #3772
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Stormperson- The plastic piece that I broke is an associated piece, that's why I said I was lucky that I broke that and something that I would have to order.
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:46 PM   #3773
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racerdx yes when you lift the car the wheels will begin to spin there fore the light wheel will begin to spin first and that ccoin willdrop first , forget the scale thier too exspensive no oneone really uses them except for the oval guys.
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:25 AM   #3774
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Hi guys,

Any suggestion for an alternate fluid to use in a damper tube, other than the Losi hydra fluid?

Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:55 AM   #3775
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
Any suggestion for an alternate fluid to use in a damper tube, other than the Losi hydra fluid?
It was posted a copy of page back... most people use diff. oil for gas sedans & 1/8 scales.

Personally I use Ofna 5000 wt. or 7000 wt if I want the car to react faster.

Racerdx6:

T-bar cars may not break upon hard impacts, but you can pretty much bet that the t-bar will be damage causing inconsistant handeling. The fiberglass becomes over stressed (broken fibers) and thus the handeling issues.

As far as tweak scales I use the one from MIP and it is sensative enough to use to adjust my touring and my 1/12. In my opnion, all tweak scales are good for is to get you close to being flat you will still need to make adjustments based on how the car FEELS on the track.

Eric
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:59 AM   #3776
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
Hi guys,

Any suggestion for an alternate fluid to use in a damper tube, other than the Losi hydra fluid?

Thanks.
I am just using Associated 80 wt. shock oil because I kinda like my car reactive (and it was the heaviest oil I had ). But if that's too twitchy for you you can always just use a heavier oil.
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:41 AM   #3777
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racerdx i placed a small washer about .100th oh inch under the top and bottom spring on the dampner springs and use associated silicone diff lube. it maintanes consistant through the whole run, try you'll like it
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:45 AM   #3778
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
Hi guys,

Any suggestion for an alternate fluid to use in a damper tube, other than the Losi hydra fluid?

Thanks.
I use BRP #7460 thick silicone lube. The Bud's lube is thick enough to stay in the tubes but still allows the car to center quickly. It is also easier to find than the Ofna lube.

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Old 08-29-2003, 10:56 AM   #3779
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d powell i think ofna or some other 1/8 offroad company even 1/8 scale onroad car sell different viscosity silicone of a very thick consistancy for diferentials .
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:59 AM   #3780
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Thanks guys. I have some silicon diff grease 100,000 at home so I'll try that.
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