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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-27-2012, 08:18 AM   #37771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FST4RD View Post
Hi all, with WGT dying at our club and 12th getting bigger and bigger I thought about getting into 12th scale.
Been offered a Serpent S120 t-bar for real cheap. Only thing is that the metal rear end is slightly bent and needs replacing.
Been looking online and not able to find new rear ends for them.
Am I better off just splashing out and getting a S120L?
I really just wanted a cheapish car to get into it and see if I like it. Are there any other good cars that are bang for buck?
I would try to find a link style car, instead of t-bar. 1S lipos really don't fit the t-bar cars, so you will be at a definite disadvantage right off the bat. Racing is always more fun if you are doing well, so don't set yourself up failure.

Try to find a newer car... plenty of people have liquidated their AE 12R5.1s and CRC XLs since the newer cars have come out. In fact, I would seriously try looking for one of those 2 cars. They are very popular, easy to find parts for, easy to find setup info, etc. And, most of all, easy to drive and very competitive.

If you like WGT, there is no reason why you won't like 12th. The real difference between the two classes relates to the size and wheelbase.... 12ths are inherently more twitchy and nervous than their 1/10th brothers. But they are, hands down, one of the funnest types of RC cars to drive IMO. It doesn't get much better than carpet 12th scale
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:29 AM   #37772
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Can anyone write up a quick summary of the principle of reactive caster and how it works on track?
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:34 AM   #37773
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Originally Posted by J.Gonzalez View Post
Can anyone write up a quick summary of the principle of reactive caster and how it works on track?
Quote:
Front.
Caster: This is front grip. If you need more grip then move the upper arms forward. If its too much, move it back.
Reactive caster: This is where you want your grip. Going into the corner (10deg), even all the way threw the corner (5deg) or mid corner to exit (0deg).
Start with .018 front spring. If the traction is high or you have to dope heavy in front then .020's would probably be better.

Unless your having rear traction issues or your tires are WAY off then I would start with caster.

When you have that set, next is the side spring/shock spring combo. The two have a balance to each other where they work in side grip and forward grip evenly. That seems to be:

Silver side/blue shock
Blue side/gold shock... I would start here for stock/ss on carpet.
Gold side/red shock.

A really good starting setting for the shocks is 30wt/30wt.

Set your side springs as soft as the lay out will let you. And by that I mean find the fastest, tightest direction change and see if the car goes threw it or if your waiting for the car to change direction. You shouldn't have to lift off the throttle for the car to change direction. Too stiff of a side spring and the steering will get twitchy right off center and it will start to throw the rear into the corner. This action starts to show up as double steer then gets worse. When I went from a gold side spring to a blue one, the car went a tenth faster. Then from the blue to silver it didn't get faster but it was more consistent. Any softer and I bet it would have slowed down. Pretty quick and easy to find the right side springs. Then fine tune the shock spring for the on-power steering you like.

There you go. Caster and side springs will get your chassis 90% there. Then fine tune the tires, aerodynamics and oils to finish it off.
It's all HERE
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:42 AM   #37774
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Originally Posted by J.Gonzalez View Post
Can anyone write up a quick summary of the principle of reactive caster and how it works on track?
My own personal opinion and experience.

When the car dives into the turn the king pins stand up giving less castor. Less castor is less steering mainly in the middle of the turn. So basically more reactive has less steering. If you want the car to diff out less more reactive will help. I dont think the initial steering feel changes with more or less reactive as long as you are starting out with the same degree of castor. If you change from 5-10 and dont readjust the castor it will not be the same as before. Also don't assume just because the clips or spacers are the same side to side your castor angle is the same. Its best you use a camber gauge against the front of the arm/steering block/upper eyelet to tell you if they are the same. I personally like 4-5 deg castor measuring it this way.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:49 AM   #37775
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Castor: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.
Increase the angle - Make the car more stable out of the turn as well as down the straights and increase steering entering a turn.
Decreasing the angle - Make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and help steering while exiting the turn. Less Castor – More front grip, more steering.
Lower Castor Angle – Better on slippery, inconsistent & rough surface.
Higher Castor Angle – Better on smooth, high traction track.


Reactive Castor – Amount of castor change when the front end of the car is compressing (diving) or decompressing (rising).
Increase the angle – Make the car react quicker & offer more steering.
Decrease the angle – make the car easier to drive smoothly into corners.

My experience is that with less static and reactive caster, the car tends to corner in an almost linear manner, holding a certain grip through the corner without a heavy turn-in or push on exit. More static and reactive caster tends to make the car "twitch" into the corner as you go off power, and then push a bit on exit. I would suggest less static and reactive caster for a flowing track, and more for a track (such as mine) that has lots of tight hairpins.

Just remember, what works for one car and driver might not work for another.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:54 AM   #37776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FST4RD View Post
Been offered a Serpent S120 t-bar for real cheap. Only thing is that the metal rear end is slightly bent and needs replacing.
Been looking online and not able to find new rear ends for them.
Am I better off just splashing out and getting a S120L?
That was a solid car, but the rear pod is about $80 USD to replace. You can get one here:

http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...&cat=29&page=1
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:33 PM   #37777
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Thanks for all the replies guys!
So what's the difference between the Associated RC12R5 and the 12R5.1 apart from the $60usd odd price tag?
Is it worth spending the extra money?
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:54 PM   #37778
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Originally Posted by FST4RD View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys!
So what's the difference between the Associated RC12R5 and the 12R5.1 apart from the $60usd odd price tag?
Is it worth spending the extra money?
This is your money best spent

Associated 1/12 12R5.1 Kit w/LiPo Conversion Kit
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:58 PM   #37779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FST4RD View Post
Hi all, with WGT dying at our club and 12th getting bigger and bigger I thought about getting into 12th scale.
Been offered a Serpent S120 t-bar for real cheap. Only thing is that the metal rear end is slightly bent and needs replacing.
Been looking online and not able to find new rear ends for them.
Am I better off just splashing out and getting a S120L?
I really just wanted a cheapish car to get into it and see if I like it. Are there any other good cars that are bang for buck?
If you decide that you want to go this route lmk, I have a brand new rear pod I'd sell for $30. I also have a 1s saddle pack for this car if your interested in that also.

Chris
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Last edited by chris moore; 02-27-2012 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:33 PM   #37780
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+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #37781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
My own personal opinion and experience.

When the car dives into the turn the king pins stand up giving less castor. Less castor is less steering mainly in the middle of the turn. So basically more reactive has less steering. If you want the car to diff out less more reactive will help. I dont think the initial steering feel changes with more or less reactive as long as you are starting out with the same degree of castor. If you change from 5-10 and dont readjust the castor it will not be the same as before. Also don't assume just because the clips or spacers are the same side to side your castor angle is the same. Its best you use a camber gauge against the front of the arm/steering block/upper eyelet to tell you if they are the same. I personally like 4-5 deg castor measuring it this way.
Nice in depth analysis there chicky.
Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:53 PM   #37782
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Anyone tried these
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:33 PM   #37783
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I was thinking about getting one or two.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:42 PM   #37784
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Default Xray 1/12 Scale

I was wondering what parts would be needed to convert the X11 link car to the X12.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:53 PM   #37785
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TCHR in Minnesota. www.twincityhobby.com
thanks for the link.hope it will make sense.
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