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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2012, 12:54 PM   #37741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Update on the new wheels from Exceed, and Enetti.

Now that I have had a chance to test both brands, synthetic compounds.
This is based on my experience at our 90x45 carpet track.

The new Exceed wheels are still poor quality, and out of round, white, or carbon black, both are the same, them have made some small improvements over the lightweight wheels from the past, but are still less than acceptable.



The new Enetti wheels are awesome !
The wear is slightly less than Jaco, but also with a bit less grip, now I see why they offer a yellow front compound
At a big race, with a lot of grip, this wheel could be the bees knees...



Up next, the new G12 tires that Paul L. used to win 12th mod at Snowbirds
&
The new C4 CEFX tires that Pete.R won 17.5 blinky with at Snowbirds.
I will only test the front C4's at this time, as the rears require $$ for left and right wheel hubs.
Doesn't the size of the Enneti wheel worry you just a bit? They've cut it pretty close. Otherwise, I'm sold.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:45 PM   #37742
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Doesn't the size of the Enneti wheel worry you just a bit? They've cut it pretty close. Otherwise, I'm sold.
They measured 38mm with my calipers.
same as CRC & Jaco

I really like the construction of this wheel.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:47 PM   #37743
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Originally Posted by masterhit View Post
I'm a Weldwood guy myself. I have applied it two ways, the traditional coat & dip method, and a method similar to the one Chicky described. Even the small $4ish bottle at Homedepot will do a a couple dozen tires.

I mount up the tire (after roughing up the wheel), then using a small thin flat-head screw driver I pull the foam back from the rim and use a toothpick to spread the Weldwood on the wheel. Then flip and repeat. I have trued the tires within a couple of hours with this method and used them within 12 hours with no ill effects.

It is a good time to be an olde school tire mounter these days. Lots of kewl rubber is being released in Japan were it seems that 12th carpet is surging.

I just mounted up a bunch of the new Yokomo CRT rubber. I haven't had a chance to put a durometer on it yet, but it cuts, feels, and acts like a mix of exotic, and "L" rubber.

Kyosho has new carpet rubber out as well.

I would be ecstatic if anyone knew of a source for black/yellow donuts as well that I can mount up for my Yok R12. I have tried emailing BSR a few times with no response.

Mike Slaughter
+1 on the Weldwood

I used that when I was mounting tires for my R12. The Renthal glue for grips is just a contact cement like Weldwood. In the old days we used a contact cement for wet suits.

I would love to try the Kyosho tires, but as I was told so nicely; KOS (Kyosho online shop) products are japan only.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:51 PM   #37744
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Default Gluing tires

Neoprene diving suit repair glue

Apply glue to wheel and tire. Let dry. Then dip wheel in acetone for a few seconds and slide tire on wheel. Good for 65+ mph.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:08 PM   #37745
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+1 on the Weldwood

I would love to try the Kyosho tires, but as I was told so nicely; KOS (Kyosho online shop) products are japan only.
If you google the part number there are a few shops that carry them or can get them. Futaba rc pro shop just restocked a few of the Kyosho foams. But they only seem to get a few sets at a time. Rc champ advisor has them as a special order.

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Old 02-22-2012, 03:38 PM   #37746
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I didn't know you could thin Shoe Goo...that is really good to know. I had been thinking about using that to glue the side walls instead of CA but couldn't think of a good clean way to apply it...thinning it would make it easy to apply.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:02 PM   #37747
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I didn't know you could thin Shoe Goo...that is really good to know.
I must have missed it, what do you thin shoe-goo with?
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:06 PM   #37748
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Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
I must have missed it, what do you thin shoe-goo with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
I was kind of thinking that. I thin Show Goo with xylene already and use it for other applications, I was just curious what others used. It makes sense. I just came across some good old foam and want to play.

Thanks for the info.
There you are, Bob.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:09 PM   #37749
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I used to have a tube of stuff from Permatex (discontinued I'm afraid) that I loved for various things. It was exactly like shoe goo only thinner and it smelled like xylene.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:13 PM   #37750
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Does Paragon degrade superglue or is the reason my tires come unbonded near the edges more nefarious than that?
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:23 PM   #37751
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Does Paragon degrade superglue or is the reason my tires come unbonded near the edges more nefarious than that?
I think super glue (especially the kind used by Jaco) makes the rubber brittle. Usually if you look closely, there is still a thin film of rubber/glue on the wheel but the rubber has split at the glue line and peeled away. Some of the others seem to have a glue that doesn't do that.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:27 AM   #37752
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Does the Protoform AMR-12 body offer more motor tab clearance than the Speed 12? I just mounted up a Speed 12('new old stock' I had) on a my son's 12R5.1 & no matter what way I index the motor(only 2 ways), one tab will touch way before it's low enough to look right. Also open to suggestions... Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:47 AM   #37753
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Does the Protoform AMR-12 body offer more motor tab clearance than the Speed 12? I just mounted up a Speed 12('new old stock' I had) on a my son's 12R5.1 & no matter what way I index the motor(only 2 ways), one tab will touch way before it's low enough to look right. Also open to suggestions... Thanks.
The AMR 12 sits pretty low in the back, it seems like all bodies do these days, I would suggest trimming down the motor tabs so you can run the wires and such closer to the can... probably not what you wanted but still easier than painting up new bodies
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:01 AM   #37754
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Originally Posted by Jay Boyd View Post
Does the Protoform AMR-12 body offer more motor tab clearance than the Speed 12? I just mounted up a Speed 12('new old stock' I had) on a my son's 12R5.1 & no matter what way I index the motor(only 2 ways), one tab will touch way before it's low enough to look right. Also open to suggestions... Thanks.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Show us what your motor wiring looks like, it will likely help show what the problem might be.

What kind of motor is it?
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:22 AM   #37755
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D3 & an ORCA. It's the same for both motors. The motor wires are nice & tight.(lots of clearance)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Boyd View Post
Does the Protoform AMR-12 body offer more motor tab clearance than the Speed 12? I just mounted up a Speed 12('new old stock' I had) on a my son's 12R5.1 & no matter what way I index the motor(only 2 ways), one tab will touch way before it's low enough to look right. Also open to suggestions... Thanks.
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