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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-02-2012, 11:52 AM   #37651
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Hello 12th scale gurus...

I'm getting back into 12th scale and I vaguely recall seeing that some guys were running KO radios (receiver/servos) off of 7.4V. Could someone confirm whether this is an option? I have a Tekin RS that I'd like to repurpose rather than buy a new ESC that has a built-in booster but the local hobbyshop only has small Lipo packs to use as a receiver pack and I was hoping to be up and running this weekend.

Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:38 PM   #37652
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Hello 12th scale gurus...

I'm getting back into 12th scale and I vaguely recall seeing that some guys were running KO radios (receiver/servos) off of 7.4V. Could someone confirm whether this is an option? I have a Tekin RS that I'd like to repurpose rather than buy a new ESC that has a built-in booster but the local hobbyshop only has small Lipo packs to use as a receiver pack and I was hoping to be up and running this weekend.

Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
Im sure you can buy a lipo to put in the radio, and as the second part, you can do a rc with a novak booster, or buy the Dynamite 1/12 LiFe Receiver Pack, i chose the boost because it was just easier for me, and thats one less thing i have to charge to get going.
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:06 PM   #37653
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
It looks as though you are talking about powering the car and only have access to a 2s lipo rx pack. If you look through the Tekin RS thread you will find a diagram where is shows how to splice your lipo battery into the switch leads. This is a path internal to the speed control past the power section and only applies your extra battery to the BEC circuit. By using a 2s lipo you will end up seeing 3s equivalent at the BEC since it and the main battery are inline but it works fine. I had some 240mah single cell lipos that I wired inline and have had great results. A ten minute run uses around 38mah from the rx battery.
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:10 PM   #37654
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OK...now you've confused me ! When I ran 12th scale before with my Tekin I ran a 200mah LiFe pack that plugged directly into the battery plug on the receiver. All I have available to me right now are small 240mah 2s lipos and I was thinking perhaps I could simply plug that into my KO receiver without overloading the receiver and servo with 7.4V?

Cheers,
Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by linkless View Post
It looks as though you are talking about powering the car and only have access to a 2s lipo rx pack. If you look through the Tekin RS thread you will find a diagram where is shows how to splice your lipo battery into the switch leads. This is a path internal to the speed control past the power section and only applies your extra battery to the BEC circuit. By using a 2s lipo you will end up seeing 3s equivalent at the BEC since it and the main battery are inline but it works fine. I had some 240mah single cell lipos that I wired inline and have had great results. A ten minute run uses around 38mah from the rx battery.
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:40 PM   #37655
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I was thinking perhaps I could simply plug that into my KO receiver without overloading the receiver and servo with 7.4V?

Cheers,
Mike
http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...=24&Itemid=126

Most KO rx's handle an input voltage 4.8-7.4V
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:16 PM   #37656
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You will probably be fine going straight but if you want to be sure, you can wire the pack into the switch. It works great.

I was going to post the diagram for you but I had a crash the other day and now all my pics are missing
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:56 PM   #37657
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
You will probably be fine going straight but if you want to be sure, you can wire the pack into the switch. It works great.

I was going to post the diagram for you but I had a crash the other day and now all my pics are missing
I gotcha both covered
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:31 PM   #37658
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Thanks for the input guys!

I had since found the diagram but thank you for posting it here...I'm a "visual learner" kinda guy and couldn't wrap my head around the description of it but it makes total sense to me now that I've seen the diagram. I think I'll probably wire up a tiny Lipo that way.

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:59 PM   #37659
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Mike, get a tq booster from someone at the track. I'll show you mine on Friday night. You just solder the wires to the terminals on the esc and plug it into the receiver and use the switch on the booster. No extra pack to charge, no extra weight, don't have to worry about anything. You just need to plug a 2s pack in at the start to change the lipo cutoff and set it up using a hotwire .After that 1s will work fine to setup boost using a hotwire.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:09 PM   #37660
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Hello 12th scale gurus...

I'm getting back into 12th scale and I vaguely recall seeing that some guys were running KO radios (receiver/servos) off of 7.4V. Could someone confirm whether this is an option? I have a Tekin RS that I'd like to repurpose rather than buy a new ESC that has a built-in booster but the local hobbyshop only has small Lipo packs to use as a receiver pack and I was hoping to be up and running this weekend.

Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike

you are correct that the ko servo and receiver can tolerate the 2s lipo voltage but NOT the tekin rs.

you need to add a booster to the 1s battery, or use the 2s life battery, or do the BEC wiring trick on the picture above.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:17 PM   #37661
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you are correct that the ko servo and receiver can tolerate the 2s lipo voltage but NOT the tekin rs.

you need to add a booster to the 1s battery, or use the 2s life battery, or do the BEC wiring trick on the picture above.
I've actually been running the same RSPro for three years with a 7.4 lipo plugged directly into my rx. MAy not be recommended but I haven't had problem one, and I race twice a week.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:22 AM   #37662
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I gotcha both covered
Take care!! That works for a Tekin because it can handle up to 3S input voltage. It will not work with any speedo that is designed for a maximum of 2S input voltage - you will release the built-in smoke!!!

It will not work at all for a Hobbywing, and I think it will make an LRP turn from blue to black! HTH
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #37663
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I am having difficulty figuring out the best way to set kingpin length on my CRC gen-xl. I know that both the manual and Mark Payne's blog mention that while the front end is off the car, you just thread the kingpin in until there is a slight amount of preload and the spring just touches the e-clip the whole way around.

However, I am also familiar with the CRC driver's .404" is god method. This method appeals to my precise nature (more so than "screw in until just a slight amount of preload"). But, given the nature of CRC parts (inaccuracies, imperfections, etc), you essentially never get two front springs of equal length. Thus, the .404" method is no longer valid.

What I have been trying to do is set the kingpins at a certain length equal on both sides, and then placing the complete car (with electronics, battery, etc) on a level surface. I then adjust kingpin length until droop looks equal on both sides of the car. This method seems to work ok, but I really dislike the imprecision of it all. My eye certainly can't see a difference that could potentially make for a poorly handling car.

Anybody have any recommendations? Am I overthinking all of this? Thanks for any and all help, it is much appreciated.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:02 PM   #37664
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:36 PM   #37665
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I am having difficulty figuring out the best way to set kingpin length on my CRC gen-xl. I know that both the manual and Mark Payne's blog mention that while the front end is off the car, you just thread the kingpin in until there is a slight amount of preload and the spring just touches the e-clip the whole way around.

However, I am also familiar with the CRC driver's .404" is god method. This method appeals to my precise nature (more so than "screw in until just a slight amount of preload"). But, given the nature of CRC parts (inaccuracies, imperfections, etc), you essentially never get two front springs of equal length. Thus, the .404" method is no longer valid.

What I have been trying to do is set the kingpins at a certain length equal on both sides, and then placing the complete car (with electronics, battery, etc) on a level surface. I then adjust kingpin length until droop looks equal on both sides of the car. This method seems to work ok, but I really dislike the imprecision of it all. My eye certainly can't see a difference that could potentially make for a poorly handling car.

Anybody have any recommendations? Am I overthinking all of this? Thanks for any and all help, it is much appreciated.

Personally I don;t do either. Here is what I do.

I usually buy a few of each spring rates at a time and I will open all the packages of each rate at a time ad using my calipers measure each one and match them up by height. this way I get as close to the same springs as possible. I also double check the thickness of the spring wire as I have had packages with 2 different spring rates in them.

Then with the springs installed on the kingpins I leave them just loose where there is some play in spring to retainer.

Put the car with freshly cut tires and check the ride height and then adjust the ride height so it;s equal and both sides have a little droop in the front.


Then set the side springs to tweak the car and poof ready to run
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