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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-01-2012, 07:30 AM   #37636
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I just converted my AE 12R5.2 over to damper tubes...

Everything went smoothly enough and the Speed Merchant parts looks to be very nice quality. My only complaint would be the amount of material(or lack thereof) left around the screw holes on the pod upper plate. But as long as I am careful and dont torque the screws to death, I think everything will be fine. Overall, I am excited to try out the car with the tubes.

I have a few questions for you guys who have been using 12ths with damper tubes for a while:

1) How often do you clean/re-lube the tubes? Obviously this depends on how clean the surface/facility is... but say it is a typical club-type carpet track. Are we talking about cleaning/re-lubing once a week? Or in between every round? Etc...

2) For a typical club-race/medium bite carpet track, what are the common lubes used for a 17.5 12th? I have heard suggestions of 10k, 15k, and the Speed Merchant "Green" Spooge.

3) Are damper tubes a consumable item? Do they "wear" out or develop play after time? And are they a commonly broken item in side impacts? Basically... should I keep spares in my pit box?

Thanks fellas
1. For club racing, I usually rebuild every other raceday.

2. I have 5k, 10k, 20k, and 30k in my box. I rarely use the 5k, mostly use the 10k on front kingpins, the 20k and 30k end up in the tubes. It all depends on the level of traction, and which class of motor (17.5 or 13.5) I'm running.

3. Damper tubes are pretty tough. The tubes on my Xi, were previously used on my XL, and my X before that, so my "normal use" tubes have been in service for at least 5 years. I have spares, but I've never had to install them.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:20 AM   #37637
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
1. For club racing, I usually rebuild every other raceday.

2. I have 5k, 10k, 20k, and 30k in my box. I rarely use the 5k, mostly use the 10k on front kingpins, the 20k and 30k end up in the tubes. It all depends on the level of traction, and which class of motor (17.5 or 13.5) I'm running.

3. Damper tubes are pretty tough. The tubes on my Xi, were previously used on my XL, and my X before that, so my "normal use" tubes have been in service for at least 5 years. I have spares, but I've never had to install them.
+1
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:22 AM   #37638
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2. I have 5k, 10k, 20k, and 30k in my box. I rarely use the 5k, mostly use the 10k on front kingpins, the 20k and 30k end up in the tubes. It all depends on the level of traction, and which class of motor (17.5 or 13.5) I'm running.
Can you elaborate more on when it is appropriate to use 20k vs 30k in the tubes?

17.5 blinky here.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:26 AM   #37639
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
1. For club racing, I usually rebuild every other raceday.

2. I have 5k, 10k, 20k, and 30k in my box. I rarely use the 5k, mostly use the 10k on front kingpins, the 20k and 30k end up in the tubes. It all depends on the level of traction, and which class of motor (17.5 or 13.5) I'm running.

3. Damper tubes are pretty tough. The tubes on my Xi, were previously used on my XL, and my X before that, so my "normal use" tubes have been in service for at least 5 years. I have spares, but I've never had to install them.
Very helpful... thanks!
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:38 AM   #37640
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Can you elaborate more on when it is appropriate to use 20k vs 30k in the tubes?

17.5 blinky here.
If the car is reacting too quickly in left/right transition, thicker dampening will generally settle the car down. helps to take that "edgy" feeling out of the car.
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:16 PM   #37641
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My leads will only reach their appropriate terminals on the battery. For motor wires I strip a small bit of insulation off of some red, white, and blue 13ga. wire, and slip it over the of the end of the motor wires to designate a, b, and c.

I think I saw Jeff Cuffs do the motor wire trick, and thought it looked cool.
I use a silver Sharpie to put one, two, and three dots on the motor wires. Easy, fast, stealth.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:20 PM   #37642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3 View Post
Can you elaborate more on when it is appropriate to use 20k vs 30k in the tubes?

17.5 blinky here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
If the car is reacting too quickly in left/right transition, thicker dampening will generally settle the car down. helps to take that "edgy" feeling out of the car.
Just to add to what he said:

If the car has "double steer", where the front grabs on entry at first but then pushes wide a bit and then grabs again, this can often be helped by going to heavier lube in the tubes.

If the car is "diffing", lifting the inside rear tire in the corner and making it sound like the diff is slipping, this can sometimes be cured by going lighter on the tube lube.

Something else you can try, run a bit to get the feel for the car, then pop off one of the tubes and try again. If the car works better, rebuild them with lighter fluid.

With previous cars, I ALWAYS used 5 or 10k, anything heavier was junk. My current car seems to like a bit more. 10k minimum and right now it's working with 20k.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:36 PM   #37643
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Default Hudy Truer vs. Jaco tires

Has anyone solved how to trim Jaco Rear tires using a huddy trimmer? Due to the tire design the arbor isn't able to thread onto the truer shaft without using a lot of force. It works, but I'm worried that over time the threads on the truer are going to get wrecked. I'm also concerned that with the arbor not fully seated on the tire that I might not be trimming the tires as round as possible.

Does anyone else have this problem?
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:42 PM   #37644
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Are you sure you are using the right arbor? I have the Hudy universal pan car arbor on my truer and have no problem with the Jaco rear rim.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:37 PM   #37645
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I have a couple different arbors, both Hudy, and pretty old. One fits the Jaco rears and one is short as described. Perhaps the Hudy universal arbor is the solution. I've heard that the CRC arbor works well also.

Jaco wheels are always a PITA to get on any arbor straight. The wheel design is such that there is no flat area for the nut part of the arbor to ride on. I always have to tighten the nut very carefully and check the concentricity before starting to true; it usually takes a few tries to get it straight
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:41 PM   #37646
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I have a couple different arbors, both Hudy, and pretty old. One fits the Jaco rears and one is short as described. Perhaps the Hudy universal arbor is the solution. I've heard that the CRC arbor works well also.

Jaco wheels are always a PITA to get on any arbor straight. The wheel design is such that there is no flat area for the nut part of the arbor to ride on. I always have to tighten the nut very carefully and check the concentricity before starting to true; it usually takes a few tries to get it straight
Thanks for the help, it looks like I have an older arbor then. I might just make due and then graduate to CRC's once I've gotten the hang of 1/12. I went with Jaco's because I heard they were less prone to cracking on impacts with the wall!!
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:51 PM   #37647
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I was reading somewhere here on the forum about tire prep for 1/12, but can't find it again now.

So you guys are using CA on the outside edge of the front tires? Regular, thin CA? (Not foam safe)

And someone also mentioned something about putting contact glue on the sidewalls of the rear tires. Is that purely a protection thing (against hitting walls), or is the idea to also glue the tire to the wheel a bit? And what kind of glue? Welders? Shoo Goo?

Oh -- one more question -- I was checking out an ESC I may use, but the main wires seem HUGE/heavy. What gauge wire would be recommended to replace it with? (I'll probably never run anything hotter than 13.5 boosted...)

As always, any helpful advice is appreciated!
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:54 PM   #37648
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http://tqracing.com/16%20gauge.htm
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:58 AM   #37649
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I was reading somewhere here on the forum about tire prep for 1/12, but can't find it again now.

So you guys are using CA on the outside edge of the front tires? Regular, thin CA? (Not foam safe)

And someone also mentioned something about putting contact glue on the sidewalls of the rear tires. Is that purely a protection thing (against hitting walls), or is the idea to also glue the tire to the wheel a bit? And what kind of glue? Welders? Shoo Goo?

Oh -- one more question -- I was checking out an ESC I may use, but the main wires seem HUGE/heavy. What gauge wire would be recommended to replace it with? (I'll probably never run anything hotter than 13.5 boosted...)

As always, any helpful advice is appreciated!
I've ceased gluing up the sidewalls on my front tires. All I do is run a very small bead of glue (f&r tires) at the glue joint between the wheel and tire for a little extra insurance against peeling. Use a QUALITY tire CA. I prefer AKA's thin.


Wire wise 16AWG is plenty.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:00 AM   #37650
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Thanks for the help, it looks like I have an older arbor then. I might just make due and then graduate to CRC's once I've gotten the hang of 1/12. I went with Jaco's because I heard they were less prone to cracking on impacts with the wall!!
Get the CRC true-all Arbor. It will fit EVERY wheel on the market except maybe the Yokomo.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719061
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Last edited by CypressMidWest; 02-02-2012 at 07:05 AM. Reason: added link
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