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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-28-2003, 10:59 AM   #3751
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
mike d i trying to find out what the street price is for the conversion kit would you happen to have an idea?
speedxl - I heard around $100. I know some people on this thread have purchased the kit and can better answer your question. Anybody?
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:03 AM   #3752
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mike i got your p m i appreciate you help iam just dissapointed with yokomo support . i dont whant to show up to the snow birds and be out to lunch on the carpet. the car is good on asphalt but of course the yoky wasnt designed for carpet. ive heared it wasnt going to be released . just a car that was designed for
masami.
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:07 PM   #3753
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fiddle Fadel
SpeedXL
You might consider getting the IRS Rugrat conversion for your Yokomo.
Thats what I did with my Yokomo.
I had my local Hobbytown get the kit for me. $85. you can see the conversion on the IRS site.
Dave @ IRS is also in the process of making the adj. front AE conversion in 12th scale. This will make a very adj. front suspension.
Also with the IRS Rugrat you can run the car as a T-plate or side damper/spring set uo. ( similar to a CRC 6-Pack, but a dedicated 4 cell chasis and adj. battery postions.)
A very nice Conversion.
Dave
Would it be possible to use the IRS conversion kit on my Carpet Knife?? Because so far I haven't liked the side spring rear end, it seems to break every time I lightly tap the sweeper at the end of the straight . Even with the speed merchent side links. The first time that I went out on the track after installing the speed merchent side links my car kinda hopped into the sweeper (there are some nasty wrinkles in our carpet at my track because it's old, which makes my car kinda hop on some places, one of them being on the inside of the sweeper turn) and it broke some pieces on the little "foot ball" pivot thing, which also stripped out the foot ball shaped piece of carbon fiber. And it pulled the piston out of the shock and spilled oil all over my battary, but the battary is no good anyway so that doesn't really bother me. So I'm looking to try a car with a t-bar rear end. I don't know if that will help at all, but I'm just looking to try it. But aside from the fragile rear end (I'm sure that all 1/12 scale cars have there fragile parts) I'm pretty happy with my CK. So I'm just wondering if the Rug Rat conversion kit would be able to work on a carpet knife?? Thanks !
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:08 PM   #3754
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speedxl-I can get you an IRS RUGRAT as I am an IRS dealer. E-mail me if your serious and I'll get you a price, and date of shipment.

Ray
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:35 PM   #3755
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
Would it be possible to use the IRS conversion kit on my Carpet Knife?? ...
racerdx - Yes, but you will need to purchase a t-bar, pivot sockets, pivot balls and t-bar spacers in addition to the IRS conversion kit. Those additional items should cost around $15.
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:21 PM   #3756
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The Pivot socket is just the thing that goes on the carbon fiber "foot ball" shaped piece right? But on the carpet knife you have to cut the pivot socket down on the sides so it clears the battary and motor. And the pivot balls are just the same as the pivot balls that came with my carpet knife right? They're about 1/4" in diameter? The pivot balls that came with the carpet knife are the same as the pivot balls that I got to convert my car to speed merchent side links.
So I'm considering doing the conversion for my carpet knife. But I want to give the car more of a chance, I'm waiting for some nice new battaries to come in and once I get the new battaries and the new carpet comes, than I'll work with the car a lot more to get it working better. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:22 PM   #3757
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Oh yeah, does anyone know the web address for IRS's web site?
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:23 PM   #3758
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racer dx mike is right youll pretty much need every thing except for axle assy, pods and shock. that pretty much what you will need if you want to convert to running a t plate car, or just buy a complete car like 12l3 and just buy the bottom plate.
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:42 PM   #3759
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http://www.teamirsrc.com/
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:50 PM   #3760
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thanks davidl
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:02 PM   #3761
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racerdx- those are not very fragile parts you are breaking, or at least from what I have seen (I would imagine that you would crack wheels, or the main chassis or something before you broke that stuff, even the axle... go figure... lol). A T-bar is much more likely to break, and its pretty much the same exact stress point as the football pivot thingie that you are breaking. Also the pivot balls on a t-bar are different (they have flanges on each side, similar to the ones on the front of a dynamic strut front end).

Also, new batteries will not help solve that situation, it will problem make it worse. New carpet might, however I am doubltful. And, while it might be a handling problem that you are facing, there isnt much that you can be off with a 12th scale, its pretty much the same set up everywhere give or take a few things, but nothing that should make it feel undriveable (unless you go from asphalt to cleveland, however thats hardly the case here). What it comes down to is that, when you hit something there is a chance that you will break. When you hit something hard enough the energy has to go somewhere, and something will most likely break or warp or something. A t-bar car will be much more likely to break than a sprung car.

Except for the case of the yok (which masami had specially made for the worlds in '01), most cars can be made to work, espically in stock. So pick a car stick with it, and learn to make it fast, and with a 12th scale as I was saying above, there is normally one basic set up that works pretty decent at most club racing carpet tracks (give or take some 10-20 weights of oil, a rate of spring, etc...), but a car should not be out to lunch. If it is normally its something else is wrong with the car... tweaked, mis-adjusted side links, binding in something, etc... (and learning how to get rid of all of those problems takes time and expeariance).
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:39 PM   #3762
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Does anyone know if the IRS front end parts will be coming out? I saw prototype parts at Cleveland last year, but I heard Dave was not going to make them due to cost ..Is this true?
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:34 PM   #3763
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racer dx i run a yokomo yr12 and it runs very good in stock these cars can take a beating more so than any touring car ! except for an hpi car, man the kids can beat them to death and they run forever. but anyway sounds to me that you might be doing something wrong during assembly or your trigger finger stays full noodle when your car is driving fast straight into the wall . all cars once set up only require small adjustments once youve found the basic setup that works for you. granted there are some situations that are very rare and requires wierd adjustments. some cars like mine no matter what you do to them wont work in certain situations like mine that the chassis is to thin to run on carpet because it has flex built into it for asphalt.
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:35 PM   #3764
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
racerdx- those are not very fragile parts you are breaking, or at least from what I have seen (I would imagine that you would crack wheels, or the main chassis or something before you broke that stuff, even the axle... go figure... lol). A T-bar is much more likely to break, and its pretty much the same exact stress point as the football pivot thingie that you are breaking. Also the pivot balls on a t-bar are different (they have flanges on each side, similar to the ones on the front of a dynamic strut front end).

Also, new batteries will not help solve that situation, it will problem make it worse. New carpet might, however I am doubltful. And, while it might be a handling problem that you are facing, there isnt much that you can be off with a 12th scale, its pretty much the same set up everywhere give or take a few things, but nothing that should make it feel undriveable (unless you go from asphalt to cleveland, however thats hardly the case here). What it comes down to is that, when you hit something there is a chance that you will break. When you hit something hard enough the energy has to go somewhere, and something will most likely break or warp or something. A t-bar car will be much more likely to break than a sprung car.

Except for the case of the yok (which masami had specially made for the worlds in '01), most cars can be made to work, espically in stock. So pick a car stick with it, and learn to make it fast, and with a 12th scale as I was saying above, there is normally one basic set up that works pretty decent at most club racing carpet tracks (give or take some 10-20 weights of oil, a rate of spring, etc...), but a car should not be out to lunch. If it is normally its something else is wrong with the car... tweaked, mis-adjusted side links, binding in something, etc... (and learning how to get rid of all of those problems takes time and expeariance).
Thanks, I agree with you on this one. The reason I said that I wanted to use new battaries in the car before I converted it is because it's hard to tell how to gear the car when your battaries are so terrible. And one reason why I kinda want to try a t-bar car is that my track carries parts for them. Like the Hyper Drive and the 12L3, and the Rug Rat (which is basically a 12L3 isn't it?). I was lucky when I only broke the plastic piece on my foot ball thingy and not the carbon fiber part. Because that would of made me wait a long time to get that part fixed. Which would of really sucked even more because I already waited like over a week to get the parts for the side links.
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:43 PM   #3765
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marvi/mike d: thanks for the info.

marvi: i'll check out giocamoto, maybe over the weekend. i hope they still have it in stock. hopefuly i'll be back into 12th by mid-Sept. lets organize a race soon.
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Last edited by ROBORAT; 08-28-2003 at 09:19 PM.
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