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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-15-2012, 09:16 PM   #37531
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Originally Posted by b_recliner View Post
I fit the servo up front. The layout possibilities this way are profound. One could fit a full-size pack and all electronics down the middle. Trust me....it can be done.
Funny another local racer and I were kicking this idea around a month or so ago. I figured that the extra weight on the nose might be an advantage with todays lighter weight cars. Mabey I'll have to try it now.
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:01 AM   #37532
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A couple questions for those 12th scale racers who use the Hot Bodies center shock:

1) Do you try to build the shock with zero rebound? If not, how much do you generally use? And do you use rebound as a tuning aid?

2) How often do you replace the shock bladder itself? It appears pretty thin... are there any other bladders that work with the HB shock? Maybe the CRC encore bladders??

3) Do you mount the shock with the body up or down? My thought was to mount it with the body upwards... if any air gets in the shock, it will naturally rise to the top. And since the stroke of the HB shock is so long, the piston will never reach the area where the bubbles converge.

4) Most importantly... How does the general damping of the shock compare to other known quantities? ie: With the same weight oil, how does the damping of the HB shock compare to the Associated shock?

I built both the HB and AE shocks with 30wt oil... the damping of the HB shock felt a fair bit lighter. If I was using 30wt in the Associated shock, where should I start with the Hot Bodies? 35wt? 40wt? Higher?

Thanks
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:59 PM   #37533
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Default best center shock

I'll add one more shock question to James' thread.

5. Who makes the best center shock?

I'm in the process of building an On Point car, using a R5.1 as a donor, but I'm looking for a better center shock. I say better because I have a hard time building/bleeding the AE shock.

Jim
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Old 01-18-2012, 03:19 PM   #37534
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Been building 4 of the Asso shocks the last couple of weeks now and haven't had any problems with bleeding what so ever.
All perfect
You could try if you have the room to use a TC5 shock for the centre shock.
I am running one on my 10R5, perfect choice

regards Roy
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Old 01-18-2012, 03:28 PM   #37535
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Pretty much all of the current crop of 1/12th shocks are very good...however I gotta say the CRC Encore shock is my favorite for 1 simple reason...changing springs! The CRC Encore shock is the only one to use a removable spring perch so you can remove the spring without taking the risk of changing your shock length because the rod end stays on the shock shaft like with the larger scale cars.
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Old 01-18-2012, 03:38 PM   #37536
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I have to vote for the CRC shock as well, its easy in every way.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #37537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Pretty much all of the current crop of 1/12th shocks are very good...however I gotta say the CRC Encore shock is my favorite for 1 simple reason...changing springs! The CRC Encore shock is the only one to use a removable spring perch so you can remove the spring without taking the risk of changing your shock length because the rod end stays on the shock shaft like with the larger scale cars.
I agree that the encore is great, though I really like the HB too but if you can't change a spring on a set-screw style shock without changing the length, you're doing something really wrong.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:21 PM   #37538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
A couple questions for those 12th scale racers who use the Hot Bodies center shock:

1) Do you try to build the shock with zero rebound? If not, how much do you generally use? And do you use rebound as a tuning aid?

2) How often do you replace the shock bladder itself? It appears pretty thin... are there any other bladders that work with the HB shock? Maybe the CRC encore bladders??

3) Do you mount the shock with the body up or down? My thought was to mount it with the body upwards... if any air gets in the shock, it will naturally rise to the top. And since the stroke of the HB shock is so long, the piston will never reach the area where the bubbles converge.

4) Most importantly... How does the general damping of the shock compare to other known quantities? ie: With the same weight oil, how does the damping of the HB shock compare to the Associated shock?

I built both the HB and AE shocks with 30wt oil... the damping of the HB shock felt a fair bit lighter. If I was using 30wt in the Associated shock, where should I start with the Hot Bodies? 35wt? 40wt? Higher?

Thanks
1) I like apx 50% rebound with the HB on my Griffin w/40wt.
2) Depends how much race time is on the shock.
3) Body Down because otherwise the shock cap would bind on the top pod plate.
4) I dont have any others to compare to right now but...very smooth can "feel" soft.
You will feel a bigger difference in spring rates than +/-10wt in oil.
my $.02
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:23 PM   #37539
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Yeah...well I've had a few times where the end piece didn't sit right on the shaft and I've had the shaft get buggered up by the set screw causing it to not fully seat in either. Some of the shocks don't let you back off the shock collar far enough to get a grip on the shaft with needle nose...the Encore just makes so much sense and makes it all much easier.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:26 PM   #37540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Yeah...well I've had a few times where the end piece didn't sit right on the shaft and I've had the shaft get buggered up by the set screw causing it to not fully seat in either. Some of the shocks don't let you back off the shock collar far enough to get a grip on the shaft with needle nose...the Encore just makes so much sense and makes it all much easier.
With the AE shock, it is so easy to set the piston all the way into the shock end. The thru shock design seems a step above the rest imo.
No pliers ever touch any part of my shocks.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:31 PM   #37541
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The current AE design works great for a side shock...but the threading is too fine for a plastic cap and suffers from shock explosions in hard impacts. Many people swap out the AE center shock for something else just for the durability. I think if they changed the cap design to something more like the Encore or HB using an aluminum piece to thread on then it would be a superb shock. But until they do something about the durability it will be a problematic shock.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:49 PM   #37542
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The current AE design works great for a side shock...but the threading is too fine for a plastic cap and suffers from shock explosions in hard impacts. Many people swap out the AE center shock for something else just for the durability. I think if they changed the cap design to something more like the Encore or HB using an aluminum piece to thread on then it would be a superb shock. But until they do something about the durability it will be a problematic shock.
Actually I thought that myself until Blackstock taught me what to do to them: You have to change the red o-ring everytime you remove the cap. Especially if it has been on there for any length of time. After he taught/showed me that all of my shock problems were gone.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:58 PM   #37543
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I've seen the shock caps strip off the first time the car was on the track never having been rebuilt before...On my F1R I nearly stripped the plastic cap just in tightening the cap by hand. The problem with shock durability is the cap. The explosions I mentioned earlier were not leak explosions but the shock itself coming apart.

Don't get me wrong...I really like the design concept and think the double sided shock and shaft is a great idea. I just feel the application of the design in a key area is weak.
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:07 PM   #37544
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I've seen the shock caps strip off the first time the car was on the track never having been rebuilt before...On my F1R I nearly stripped the plastic cap just in tightening the cap by hand. The problem with shock durability is the cap. The explosions I mentioned earlier were not leak explosions but the shock itself coming apart.

Don't get me wrong...I really like the design concept and think the double sided shock and shaft is a great idea. I just feel the application of the design in a key area is weak.
I've seen Encore shocks bent and broken from Hard impacts.
Hit something hard enough, and something is goin to give, just sayin

Did you get that spacer yet ?
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:16 PM   #37545
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Oh I agree...I've seen many different shocks bend or break in hard impacts. No shock is perfect.

I got it yesterday thanks! I just gotta swing by the hobby shop tonight to pick up some diff balls and the F1R will be set.
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