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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-10-2012, 04:13 PM   #37486
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Having blown compressed air over my car with the body i know that the increased downforce can be significant in comparison to the overall weight of the cars, but most of the handling of the cars is given by its foam tires and not the body downforce.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:28 PM   #37487
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Hi to all 12's
my first 1/12 car is a Κyosho AXIS EX back in early 90's.A bit expensive,a bit tricky to set up but when you find his "button" it handles like a dream...Still in my own in a almost perfect condition! (see photo 1)
...an few months ago,another AXIS joined my r/c garage! (photo 2)

Forgot to write that my old AXIS has a home made modification on front and rear end to accept RC12 tires due to difficulty finding tires with Kyosho hexagon for it....(see pics for details) yeah I know It was a bit dirty...
The second AXIS (photo 2) is original to everything.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-axisexrszd.jpg   1/12 forum-270420111127.jpg   1/12 forum-axis2.jpg   1/12 forum-axis4.jpg  
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:25 PM   #37488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Recently my 1/12 has been "Square'ing up" corners if you know what I mean .. the car enters the corner well and about mid corner the rear looses traction, slides a bit and centers itself on corner exit, resulting in loss of corner-speed.

What is this a sign of? I've been messing around with front and rear track width, camber and tweak and have not found the issue yet .. Anyone have suggestions for this behavior?
i have been having the same problem with my gen xl. i have been messing around with front springs, i went stiffer on the front it seemed to help a little but it was pushing on entry then hooking back up mid corner and exit.
hope some of the experts on here will chime in with some good advise.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:29 PM   #37489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Recently my 1/12 has been "Square'ing up" corners if you know what I mean .. the car enters the corner well and about mid corner the rear looses traction, slides a bit and centers itself on corner exit, resulting in loss of corner-speed.

What is this a sign of? I've been messing around with front and rear track width, camber and tweak and have not found the issue yet .. Anyone have suggestions for this behavior?
It sounds like you are getting a bad case of double steer

excerpt from my cobbled together setup guide


Side Damping:
Thinner - helps to increase rear traction & allows the car to transition faster and turn-in a little better. Decrease front traction, decrease steering.
Stiffer Increase front traction, increase steering. Slows transition & soften steering in fast sweeper. If car is double steering on power use, thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go too far, inside rear tires will lift in tight corners.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:30 PM   #37490
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attached guide
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Last edited by jdeadman; 05-19-2014 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:57 PM   #37491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
attached guide
Love that guide. Last season (my first in 12th) my travelling copy of it was passed all over the pits!

I found that it applies to 10th WGT as well.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:18 PM   #37492
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Love that guide. Last season (my first in 12th) my travelling copy of it was passed all over the pits!

I found that it applies to 10th WGT as well.
Thanks a coulple years ago I got tired of hunting around to different places for all of the 1/12th scale info so I put together that

it has served me very well. I also really like the New rc workbench (IPhone app) from the guy who wrote the XXXMain setup giude

Very Nice
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:34 PM   #37493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Recently my 1/12 has been "Square'ing up" corners if you know what I mean .. the car enters the corner well and about mid corner the rear looses traction, slides a bit and centers itself on corner exit, resulting in loss of corner-speed.

What is this a sign of? I've been messing around with front and rear track width, camber and tweak and have not found the issue yet .. Anyone have suggestions for this behavior?
I also have a theory that i need to prove out which could cause this phenomenon.

If you run the servo flat it creates a fair amount of bump steer (front tires toeing in when the suspension is compressed). If you turn in a slight bit to hard the car will lean over more and bump steer will increase your steering angle causing the car to over-steer. If you can drive smooth this effect won't be noticed because the car is not leaning over as hard.

This is just a theory but ever since I've gone to flat servo's in both my 12th and WGT I've noticed this happening. The vertical position of the links does not seem to help the bump steer affect.

I can now see why CRC uses the angled servo mounts, it completely removes the bump steer affect. The problem with this design though is controlling ackerman.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:45 AM   #37494
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Hi 12th gurus..

What is the optimum tires sizes to run on carpet and asphalt??

Would 44mm front and 46mm rear good for both?
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:30 AM   #37495
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Hi 12th gurus..

What is the optimum tires sizes to run on carpet and asphalt??

Would 44mm front and 46mm rear good for both?
There is no optimum size, it all depends on the track, the grip you have and the motor you run.
Generally the slower motor you run the higher tyre you can use.
For good handling on carpet use 43mm rear 41.5mm front as a starting point
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:11 AM   #37496
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Hi 12th gurus..

What is the optimum tires sizes to run on carpet and asphalt??

Would 44mm front and 46mm rear good for both?
If your running at a big race starting tires in the 41mm range is good. The problem with starting this small is you won't get very many runs from the front tire.

For club racing start fronts around 43 and rears 44mm.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:12 PM   #37497
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For asphalt I would run no less than 45 in the rear and about 1mm less in the front

but it really all depends on what you are doing

Big races with an F tonne of traction then 41 rears are not uncommon

blinky 17.5 club racing 45 mm is not too uncommon
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #37498
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Do you guys find that your front tires or rear tires wear out faster?
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:44 PM   #37499
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I find my rear tires rarely wear out, they are usually chunked to death. Fronts last a really long time.
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:46 PM   #37500
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Thank you all guys.

At the local club, we run asphalt and the veterans are saying the car would not have enough clearance if the tires are smaller than 52mm..

is that possible?
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