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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-26-2003, 01:07 PM   #3736
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Robb
Hey Mike D.,

Is that 4mm tire stagger generalized or what you use for your IRS?

John R.
I ran the same stagger on my 12L3.
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Old 08-26-2003, 03:08 PM   #3737
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I finally realized that my servo saver on my carpet knife was hitting my Ascari body, so I removed my angled servo mounts and mounted the servo flat on the chassis with shoe goo. So I'm happy about making that decision, because doing that made my car get a lower center of gravity, it removed weight, and now my body can be even lower .

Here's a question I have about my Cyclone speedo I have in my carpet knife. I bought it used from a guy for 50 bucks and it had a big capacitor on it. It's like a half inch by 3/4's of an inch. It's probably not that exact size, but I haven't measure it yet. I was wondering if it's completly neccessary to use a capacitor in stock 12th scale? I've heard some people say you don't need it, I was just looking for some more opinions. Thanks
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Old 08-26-2003, 03:40 PM   #3738
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mike d how you doing you might remember me the big guywith the yokomo at the nats i finished 6th in the a,hey still enjoying the win? i want to trade in the yoke, ive been having hard time on carfpet with the chassis is to thin and they wont have a thicker unit until october can you talk to irs for me !
congratulations on the win again .
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Old 08-26-2003, 03:41 PM   #3739
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Default IRS Rugrat

Mike D
Thanks for the info! Have you run the Rugrat with the side spring/damper setup? If so what was your impression compared to using the T-Plate. EX. Did it handle differently?
I have been driving a Speedmerchant Rev 3 and want to get back to the T-plate car.
The Rugrat is interesting in that you can do both with the same car.
Thanks for you help
Dave
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Old 08-26-2003, 05:24 PM   #3740
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Racer DX 6 I dont' think you will need the cap for stock. Remove it and see if you have glitching problems at a long distance when pulling the throttle ALL THE WAY.

I doubt it does any good in 1/12 stock.

David Root
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Old 08-26-2003, 06:49 PM   #3741
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
mike d how you doing you might remember me the big guywith the yokomo at the nats i finished 6th in the a,hey still enjoying the win? i want to trade in the yoke, ive been having hard time on carfpet with the chassis is to thin and they wont have a thicker unit until october can you talk to irs for me !
congratulations on the win again .
Just throw an Associated 12L3 chassis on yer Yok. The chassis is much more suited for carpet and that way you won't need to buy a whole new car. Unless you want a new one .
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:28 AM   #3742
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thanks racer i was just tring to get hooked up. i know you can run the regular assoc. chassis i just kinda disapointed with the way yokomo has handled marketing the car and giving support to someone the put the car in the A main athe nats and ran well. not looking fro free stuff but a little bit of a heads up on parts would be nice.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:44 AM   #3743
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speedxl- you could double up the stock chassis, I've seen Brian Kinwald do this with his 1/12 car.
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Old 08-27-2003, 11:32 AM   #3744
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i already trid it it does help but i dont want the extra wieght my car wieghs in at 29.6 oz's already that s including reciever pack.
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Old 08-27-2003, 03:33 PM   #3745
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SpeedXL
You might consider getting the IRS Rugrat conversion for your Yokomo.
Thats what I did with my Yokomo.
I had my local Hobbytown get the kit for me. $85. you can see the conversion on the IRS site.
Dave @ IRS is also in the process of making the adj. front AE conversion in 12th scale. This will make a very adj. front suspension.
Also with the IRS Rugrat you can run the car as a T-plate or side damper/spring set uo. ( similar to a CRC 6-Pack, but a dedicated 4 cell chasis and adj. battery postions.)
A very nice Conversion.
Dave
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Old 08-28-2003, 03:39 AM   #3746
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Default Re: Re: Mike D.

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
John - I used to run a 12L3 and I don't remember having those problems. I think you said before that you ran inline front axles. Those will make the car very twitchy but they also make your front ride height 1-2mm lower. Are you using the standard #1,2,3 rear axle spacers? There is an optional #4 rear axle spacer that will raise the rear ride height more. I am also using the IRS rear pod plates that raise the rear ride height 2.25 mm vs the stock asc plates.
Mike D: would you know what the part number for that optional #4 rear axle spacer would be? i wanna get more runs out of my tires and that would surely help a lot. thanks.
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:26 AM   #3747
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robo: are you asking about the part where the rear axle bearings and rear shaft go through? if yes ...

part no. 4351 - axle height adjuster #4 offset

i think i bought one of these in giocamoto (shaw blvd)
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:36 AM   #3748
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Default Re: Re: Re: Mike D.

Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
Mike D: would you know what the part number for that optional #4 rear axle spacer would be? i wanna get more runs out of my tires and that would surely help a lot. thanks.
ROBORAT - marvi is right, part no. 4351
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:44 AM   #3749
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mike d i trying to find out what the street price is for the conversion kit would you happen to have an idea?
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:48 AM   #3750
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Default Damper question from a 1/12 newbi

Can anyone tell me what is hydra fluid? Does it come with different viscosity? And what other fluid can I use instead to fill the damper tube? Thanks a lot.

Ron
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