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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-02-2012, 08:31 PM   #37456
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hey guys i just got back into 1/12th scale and i got a crc gen xl, i'm looking for a setup station. what station works with the huge front axles on this car? what are you guys using?
i know alot of you guys say don't bother with one, but i always liked using one in the past.
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:27 AM   #37457
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I just picked up a Gen XL from a buddy of mine and want to know what is the best body to go with? I run in 13.5 blinky class on indoor crc carpet.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:08 AM   #37458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
I just picked up a Gen XL from a buddy of mine and want to know what is the best body to go with? I run in 13.5 blinky class on indoor crc carpet.
Im using the crc pacemaker.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:31 AM   #37459
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CRC import 4 bodies from Blackart
Bomb'R=less aggressive


R8c=more aggressive


R10 LMP=Balanced


And the latest iteration R12 Mowhawk. which is apparently an improvement on the Bomb'R


These are of course all modeled after the all mighty Audi Prototype Endurance cars.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:39 AM   #37460
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Continuing on the front tire discussion. Ive noticed there are a few differents combinations that are popular for each different class of 12th. Obviously there are plenty of setups that differ from the below... But this is what I have been noticing the fast guys using at bigger races. If I am missing something, or have something wrong, please point it out.

Blinky 17.5, I see people using:
1) Black/Yellow
2) Black/Orange(Grey-Low)
3) Magenta/Yellow
4) Magenta/Pink

13.5 Open:
1) Magenta/Yellow
2) Magenta/Pink
3) Magenta/Magenta

Mod:
1) Magenta/Pink
2) Magenta/Magenta


What is the reason for this hierarchy? More to the point, what is the reason for the Black/Yellow or Black/Orange combo being so popular in Stock/17.5, but not really used in the other classes?

Im guessing that as the motors get faster, the potential for higher corner speed increases... thus you want a car with more steering to maintain that corner speed? Is this correct?

If that is the case, are there situations where you would want to use a Magenta/Magenta combo in, say, 17.5 Blinky?
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:31 AM   #37461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
CRC import 4 bodies from Blackart
Bomb'R=less aggressive

R8c=more aggressive

R10 LMP=Balanced

And the latest iteration R12 Mowhawk. which is apparently an improvement on the Bomb'R
I disagree on your body handling information.

R8C is less aggressive, car is easier to drive overall.

Bomb'R has more down force all around and definitely gives you more steering. This body is similar to the Protoform AMR12. Both these bodies are used in Mod racing which would lead one to believe they have more grip. I gained .1 to .2 seconds on average in 17.5NT by switching to the Bomb'R.

Not sure on the other 2 I've never ran them.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:44 AM   #37462
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Are either of the Protoform bodies good?
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:59 AM   #37463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Continuing on the front tire discussion. Ive noticed there are a few differents combinations that are popular for each different class of 12th. Obviously there are plenty of setups that differ from the below... But this is what I have been noticing the fast guys using at bigger races. If I am missing something, or have something wrong, please point it out.

Blinky 17.5, I see people using:
1) Black/Yellow
2) Black/Orange(Grey-Low)
3) Magenta/Yellow
4) Magenta/Pink

13.5 Open:
1) Magenta/Yellow
2) Magenta/Pink
3) Magenta/Magenta

Mod:
1) Magenta/Pink
2) Magenta/Magenta


What is the reason for this hierarchy? More to the point, what is the reason for the Black/Yellow or Black/Orange combo being so popular in Stock/17.5, but not really used in the other classes?

Im guessing that as the motors get faster, the potential for higher corner speed increases... thus you want a car with more steering to maintain that corner speed? Is this correct?

If that is the case, are there situations where you would want to use a Magenta/Magenta combo in, say, 17.5 Blinky?
Repost so it doesn't get lost on the bottom of the last page...
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:15 PM   #37464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
I disagree on your body handling information.

R8C is less aggressive, car is easier to drive overall.

Bomb'R has more down force all around and definitely gives you more steering. This body is similar to the Protoform AMR12. Both these bodies are used in Mod racing which would lead one to believe they have more grip. I gained .1 to .2 seconds on average in 17.5NT by switching to the Bomb'R.

Not sure on the other 2 I've never ran them.
This is my first 1/12 scale so it sounds like the R8C would be best for me. I race WGT now and do pretty good so I decided to give 12th scale a shot.
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:19 PM   #37465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Continuing on the front tire discussion. Ive noticed there are a few differents combinations that are popular for each different class of 12th. Obviously there are plenty of setups that differ from the below... But this is what I have been noticing the fast guys using at bigger races. If I am missing something, or have something wrong, please point it out.

Blinky 17.5, I see people using:
1) Black/Yellow
2) Black/Orange(Grey-Low)
3) Magenta/Yellow
4) Magenta/Pink

13.5 Open:
1) Magenta/Yellow
2) Magenta/Pink
3) Magenta/Magenta

Mod:
1) Magenta/Pink
2) Magenta/Magenta


What is the reason for this hierarchy? More to the point, what is the reason for the Black/Yellow or Black/Orange combo being so popular in Stock/17.5, but not really used in the other classes?

Im guessing that as the motors get faster, the potential for higher corner speed increases... thus you want a car with more steering to maintain that corner speed? Is this correct?

If that is the case, are there situations where you would want to use a Magenta/Magenta combo in, say, 17.5 Blinky?
I haven't done much testing in 17,5 in a long time but most guys run the yellow/black combo because it has less grip and makes the car run a little more free. Less steering and less rear grip. If the track has low grip the pink/magenta family could certainly be faster, I have even seen it at big races but it is less common.

My personal experience with 13.5 and faster is the yellow family just does not have the traction the pink/magenta family of rubber does. The yellow rears have less forward bite than pink or magenta and usually chunk and wear out much easier/faster. I have seen them used and work but only in certain circumstances.

Hope that helps a little.
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Last edited by chicky03; 01-04-2012 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:08 PM   #37466
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Hello 1/12th scale racers.
I'm looking at getting into 1/12 scale 17.5 boosted. Two members at my club have offered to sell me their used 1/12 rollers.
1st
Associated 12R5.1
2nd
Serpent S120L
both in great shape.
Which one would you buy if you were just getting into 1/12 scale & Why?
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:13 PM   #37467
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I gotta try one of those R12 Mohawks, just on the basis of looking badass.
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:18 PM   #37468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Pink View Post
Hello 1/12th scale racers.
I'm looking at getting into 1/12 scale 17.5 boosted. Two members at my club have offered to sell me their used 1/12 rollers.
1st
Associated 12R5.1
2nd
Serpent S120L
both in great shape.
Which one would you buy if you were just getting into 1/12 scale & Why?
I would look at condition of the cars first. Second, I would look at how much help is there for a particular car. If everyone else is running AE you would probably do better quicker with it. As a newbie, I would not go buy something that no one else is running and can't help you with. Third look for parts support at your local track. Something is going to break and you are not going to have it. I just think it is easier for a person getting into a class for the first time to go with the flow. Then, after you have mastered it, you can go your on direction.
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:23 PM   #37469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Pink View Post
Hello 1/12th scale racers.
I'm looking at getting into 1/12 scale 17.5 boosted. Two members at my club have offered to sell me their used 1/12 rollers.
1st
Associated 12R5.1
2nd
Serpent S120L
both in great shape.
Which one would you buy if you were just getting into 1/12 scale & Why?
All of the cars are about equal, just get the one that has better part support at the track (probably not the serpent)
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:35 PM   #37470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
I haven't done much testing in 17,5 in a long time but most guys run the yellow/black combo because it has less grip and makes the car run a little more free. Less steering and less rear grip. If the track has low grip the pink/magenta family could certainly be faster, I have even seen it at big races but it is less common.

My personal experience with 13.5 and faster is the yellow family just does not have the traction the pink/magenta family of rubber does. The yellow rears have less forward bite than pink or magenta and usually chunk and wear out much easier/faster. I have seem them used and work but only in certain circumstances.

Hope that helps a little.
Thanks for the input... Very helpful.
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