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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-01-2012, 05:32 PM   #37441
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Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
Hi all, I'm looking to get in to 1/12 scale. I currently have a 1/10 CRC genx10le so I would like to stay with CRC. I'm just not sure between the XL or Xi. What is the difference and is the Xi that much better or as a newb to onroad would I not really notice? I will be running on carpet,13.5 blinky.
If you're buying new, I'd go Xi with the shorty pack battery. At our track a friend of mine switched from XL to Xi and went quite a bit faster. If there is a good used XL around, it's still a good car. Take it easy, ask a lot of questions and don't get discouraged if it takes a while to get up to speed
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:52 PM   #37442
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I would not go with the shorty pack for 13.5. But then, I run boosted not blinky but I can dump a 5200 pack in 13.5 boosted.
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:09 PM   #37443
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I would not go with the shorty pack for 13.5. But then, I run boosted not blinky but I can dump a 5200 pack in 13.5 boosted.
FWIW for comparison, I can take anywhere from 2500mah to 3100mah (max timing) out of a pack using 13.5 blinky in eight minutes on a fairly large track (104ft). So for stock racing the shorty should work. But wont have as much punch left at end of race as the larger mah packs will.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:00 PM   #37444
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It's starting to get serious in 1/12 at Competition Hobbies in Tucson, I may find myself doing a lot more work on my car than I used to I found a setup that it likes but I keep deviating from it and needing to go back, or I have to change tires and no two sets are exactly the same. Standard stuff, never quite satisfied.

I love the competition, but its strange, as I'm used to being the slow guy in all of my offroad classes I had somebody tell me that I am their benchmark and their goal to shoot for, and people even ask me (at 23, with less than 1 year of 1/12 scale under my belt) for advice! I'm not used to being the fast guy at my class.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:59 AM   #37445
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Thank you for the detailed response. It is much appreciated!

I ask because I did back to back sessions with Jaco and CRC fronts a few days ago. I made sure to shim the front axles appropriately so that the width remained the same. Both the Jaco and CRC fronts were at 40.5mm, and I preferred the feel of the CRCs. There was no difference in my fastest lap times and since I was just practicing, I did not have a print-out to compare average lap times... but the CRCs felt more consistent, especially at turn-in.
It can simply come down to personal feel as well. I don't like the CRC tires at all, my car feels inconsistent and weird on them. At the last big race I was at I literally went from a TQ car on Jaco's to a undrivable car that had to be pulled off the track with CRC's.

Which is why I think you gotta try everything and find what you like. Same goes for body, a lot of people run the CRC Audi at my club, I find it way too unstable and inconsistent.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:28 PM   #37446
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Originally Posted by For_the_win View Post
Does anyone use the xceed tires?

Also did you true them down a bit before you ran them, I got some sets to try but when i mounted the the i had a hard time of them rubbing on the inside of the body.
I run them. Did you check rear trackwidth? The xceeds hve a different offset to jaco and crc and most likely increas trackwidth, hence the rubbing.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:39 PM   #37447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
My understanding is that the stock (large) rotor is good for blinky whilst the smaller rotor is used for boosted. Cheers!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I don't know. In 13.5 boosted I stuck a 1s rotor in and went about .1 faster. Of course that was an old stock rotor vs. a nearly new 1s rotor so that might be the reason.
it seems with blinky and larger rollouts the higher torque rotor is a benefit compared to boosted where smaller rollouts and higher rpm benefits from the lower torque rotor.

although for the life of me i can't see how more torque can ever be a bad thing so it must be that the higher torque rotor somehow limits rpm?
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:54 PM   #37448
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I run them. Did you check rear trackwidth? The xceeds hve a different offset to jaco and crc and most likely increas trackwidth, hence the rubbing.
Yes i ran it, hince how i knew the front where rubbing. I think im going to use them for practice and buy some other brand, they feel cheapish (even though i know they where) ill try crc next. But i need a tire truer or someting first.

IF i buy the ofna tire true what else to i need to be able to true the tires. i dont know what adapter or bit to get.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #37449
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Yes i ran it, hince how i knew the front where rubbing. I think im going to use them for practice and buy some other brand, they feel cheapish (even though i know they where) ill try crc next. But i need a tire truer or someting first.

IF i buy the ofna tire true what else to i need to be able to true the tires. i dont know what adapter or bit to get.
I like the the CRC True-All Adaper best so far.
Frank has some cool stuff

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Old 01-02-2012, 02:50 PM   #37450
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I like the the CRC True-All Adaper best so far.
Frank has some cool stuff
Looks quite similar to the piece that comes stock on the cheap Ofna truer.

My only problem with using my truer is with the wheels, I don't know if its just me but it takes a bit of trial and error with the position and tension on the wheel to make sure that it is spinning true. Nothing is more annoying than finding a brand-new tire doesn't spin straight when bolted on the axle.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:06 PM   #37451
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Looks quite similar to the piece that comes stock on the cheap Ofna truer.

My only problem with using my truer is with the wheels, I don't know if its just me but it takes a bit of trial and error with the position and tension on the wheel to make sure that it is spinning true. Nothing is more annoying than finding a brand-new tire doesn't spin straight when bolted on the axle.
I've tested all the available adapters, and the CRC unit self centers the best, on every type of wheel.
It's not perfect for any one wheel, but better than the rest.

imo the best option would use wheel screws as does the wheel hub on your car.
Of course that would take more time when truing, but it would in theory, be perfect every time.

A tip, I've learned with the truer arbor.
I put the screw in the end adapter piece, and when tightening, only use the end adapter to get it barely snug, tighten the rest of the way with the wheel, this seems to help center things better.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:08 PM   #37452
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I really like CRC products in general...However I had problems with the truer arbor. Because the threaded section is not machined as part of the rest of the arbor it can be not straight and cause the wheel not to spin true. I've gone to the Hudy one and it is better but expensive.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:44 PM   #37453
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Had my first 1/12 race on Friday.
Fun with a capital F!
See the track here
Thanks to the RCtech 1/12 community for the advice I have received.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:48 PM   #37454
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
it seems with blinky and larger rollouts the higher torque rotor is a benefit compared to boosted where smaller rollouts and higher rpm benefits from the lower torque rotor.

although for the life of me i can't see how more torque can ever be a bad thing so it must be that the higher torque rotor somehow limits rpm?
Yes, a stronger or larger diameter rotor has more natural drag against the iron stator stack, which limits RPM. This effect is most noticeable off-power as drag brake. Yet another reason why optimum gearing ultimately comes down to each individual motor.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:55 PM   #37455
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I've had very good luck using hi-rpm rotors in blinky 1/12 but what I've notices is if I hit something it takes longer to get back up to speed. You have to have a very efficient car in the corners to reap the benafits of the hi-rpm rotor otherwise it will slow you down.
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