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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-29-2011, 04:15 PM   #37426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oXYnary View Post
The Sanwa specifically says its for 1/12th. Here is the weird thing. It lists a Airtronics number on it - 94971. But that number isnt on the Airtronics site.
Here is a reply I got from Airtronics on it.

Quote:
The Airtronics number of that servo would be 94971. However, at this time we have no plans to bring that servo to the U.S. as our previous attempts of importing servos of this cost have resulted in less than favorable results. Simply put, customers are not willing to pay such high prices for a servo like this. What many people have been using for 1/12 scale recently is our 94819 servo. Personally, I have one in a Team Associated RC12R5.1 and like it very much.
Hmm.. So I would have to source overseas for a Sanwa-HR-141.. I also wonder, is it that much more expensive than a JR servo that they couldn't import it? The 94819 servo he mentions is a budget servo (and bigger).
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:53 PM   #37427
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Great thread !

I wonder what kind of tires to run on asphalt, will run a Vdezign V and Jaco mobgums.

Magenta/Pink rear and Magenta/2xPink front recommended on carpet but most of the time will run on an outside touring track.
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:49 PM   #37428
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I was wondering about these myself; anyone tried them yet?
Ordered some, but I doubt I'll get them in time to run tomorrow.
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:33 PM   #37429
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Default LRP X12 rotor for 1s

What is the advantage of using this rotor in the X12 for 1/12 1s operation? How does it differ than the stock rotor or any other sintered rotor for the X12 other than its diameter?

Part# LRP50639
http://teamassociated.com/lrp/parts/details/LRP50639/
http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...rotor/details/
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:55 PM   #37430
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
What is the advantage of using this rotor in the X12 for 1/12 1s operation? How does it differ than the stock rotor or any other sintered rotor for the X12 other than its diameter?

Part# LRP50639
http://teamassociated.com/lrp/parts/details/LRP50639/
http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...rotor/details/
It's just a bit smaller in diameter. Gives a tick more top-end. I actually really like that rotor in 2s TC and been running it in 1/12th too.
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:15 PM   #37431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
What is the advantage of using this rotor in the X12 for 1/12 1s operation? How does it differ than the stock rotor or any other sintered rotor for the X12 other than its diameter?

Part# LRP50639
http://teamassociated.com/lrp/parts/details/LRP50639/
http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...rotor/details/
My understanding is that the stock (large) rotor is good for blinky whilst the smaller rotor is used for boosted. Cheers!
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:36 PM   #37432
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
My understanding is that the stock (large) rotor is good for blinky whilst the smaller rotor is used for boosted. Cheers!
I don't know. In 13.5 boosted I stuck a 1s rotor in and went about .1 faster. Of course that was an old stock rotor vs. a nearly new 1s rotor so that might be the reason.
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:38 AM   #37433
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Let's talk about front tires.

Jaco vs CRC. The Jacos have a 37mm wheel while the CRCs have a 38mm. I have noticed that a lot of people are running very small tires... ie: ~40mm. With the Jacos, this leaves a decent amount of usable rubber... but with the CRC wheels, this translates into 1 or two run tires since they are so small.

Granted, for club racing, larger tires are fine. But for big races, I see most running very small.

Which brand of tires do you guys prefer and why? And what sizes do you normally run?
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:42 PM   #37434
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Let's talk about front tires.

Jaco vs CRC. The Jacos have a 37mm wheel while the CRCs have a 38mm. I have noticed that a lot of people are running very small tires... ie: ~40mm. With the Jacos, this leaves a decent amount of usable rubber... but with the CRC wheels, this translates into 1 or two run tires since they are so small.

Granted, for club racing, larger tires are fine. But for big races, I see most running very small.

Which brand of tires do you guys prefer and why? And what sizes do you normally run?
History and results show that larger diameter rims (not tires) tend to be an advantage in both real and scale racing. Going back many years when Yokomo surprised many other teams at the offroad worlds with 2.2 in rim (standard was 2")", it was a huge advantage prompting some teams to scramble to make rims larger during the event. In most racing applications, you will find that the wheels are built to the max specs allowed by the rules.

Also, the overall diameter of of the tire is really not the key, we believe that the sidewall size is more important than the overall diameter. For most grip conditions experienced in road racing, small sidewalls give the car a solid planted feel that a large rubber-to-wheel ratio (tall sidewall) will not give. We feel that a 40 mm tire on a 38 mm wheel will out perform a 40 mm tire on a 37 or 35 mm wheel. IMO, the 40 mm size mentioned is not the key or the target, it is the tire size relative to the wheel.

Obviously, both sizes have won many races, so this is more grey than black and white, but if small wheels are as good as large wheels, why aren't we using the old 1.4 (35 mm) rims from the old days? The reason... bigger is better. (pun intended) :-)

My good friend and racing teammate, Terry Rott has been bugging me to make a 1.2" wheel for many years. He enjoys harassing me about it every chance he gets in a joking manner. I suppose there are some occasions when the small wheel would be better, but history shows big wheels and small sidewalls make fast lap times. That is why we designed CRC rims to the max dimensions of the rules.

Sizes we normally run...
Speaking for the Rome, NY based drivers, Brian Wynn and I usually start at 1.63 (~41.4) fronts and 1.67 (~42.4) rears. Most of the time at large events, by the 2nd or 3rd round we end up running about 1 mm smaller. Tom Firsching has had some excellent results with larger tires, 1.65 front, 1.70 rear. Similar to Tom, John Firsching and Mark Calandra tend to run larger tires as well.


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Old 12-31-2011, 01:30 PM   #37435
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Thank you for the detailed response. It is much appreciated!

I ask because I did back to back sessions with Jaco and CRC fronts a few days ago. I made sure to shim the front axles appropriately so that the width remained the same. Both the Jaco and CRC fronts were at 40.5mm, and I preferred the feel of the CRCs. There was no difference in my fastest lap times and since I was just practicing, I did not have a print-out to compare average lap times... but the CRCs felt more consistent, especially at turn-in.
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Old 12-31-2011, 09:52 PM   #37436
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Just got the new Enneti tires from Stormer, and I'm a little disappointed. This doesn't look or smell like Exotic rubber (Yellow, Gray etc). It looks and smells like their gas rubber. We'll see how they work, but for our track, I'm not hopeful.
Ran the Enneti Yellow 30 last night and they worked great. 2 thumbs up!!
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:13 PM   #37437
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something also to take note is the hardness of the rims and the flex each brand provides.... My personal experince at this one trackwhich is a smaller low to med bite track i race at is that i ran back to back also with the same prep and rutine as i do and making sure the width is the same between jaco/parm and crc tires i was instantly .2 to 3 tenth slower a lap with crc and the car felt i dunno hard to explain like it was still fast but "ontop of the carpet" compared to jac/parma but like i said it is just at this one track im thinking cause gthe track is smaller the flex and give of the jaco/parma gives it that little bit of extra i needed...

But on other tracks dont have a prob....

Def like the way the front bearings firin the crc though..
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:48 AM   #37438
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Does anyone use the xceed tires?

Also did you true them down a bit before you ran them, I got some sets to try but when i mounted the the i had a hard time of them rubbing on the inside of the body.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:57 AM   #37439
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Originally Posted by For_the_win View Post
Does anyone use the xceed tires?

Also did you true them down a bit before you ran them, I got some sets to try but when i mounted the the i had a hard time of them rubbing on the inside of the body.
You will typically want to true down any and all tires you purchase, no matter the brand. When millimeters can make such a big difference in 12th, it makes sense to make sure you are always starting from the same point when testing new parts. I personally true down all of my tires to 1.7" straight out of the box, but that is for club racing, so you will likely want to go smaller for higher level events. The other thing is that if you aren't paying attention to tire diameter but are making different setup changes (springs, camber, whatever), as your gear ratio and rolling speed change you could find yourself lapping slower or faster completely independent of the setup changes you are making.

In regards to the xceed tires themselves. I bought a couple different pairs to mess around with. I normally use CRC Blacks/Greylows, so I was trying to find a combo of the xceed tires that might drive similarly but be cheaper $. I was able to get pretty close with Hard/Soft and playing with dope width. I did have poor experience with the xceeds chunking a lot more than I was used to with CRC tires though.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:22 PM   #37440
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Hi all, I'm looking to get in to 1/12 scale. I currently have a 1/10 CRC genx10le so I would like to stay with CRC. I'm just not sure between the XL or Xi. What is the difference and is the Xi that much better or as a newb to onroad would I not really notice? I will be running on carpet,13.5 blinky.
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