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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-26-2011, 09:27 PM   #37396
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
So I currently race both 17.5 12th and touring, and am trying to figure out my motor choice for both of them. I have a D3 as well as a Speed Passion handout from this past IIC with the 10 degree endbell. Is one of these motors better suited to 12th scale than the other? I have tried swapping them back and forth between the two cars and the only real difference I notice is that the SP feels "smoother" than the D3, but not necessarily faster. Lap times are about the same for both, even with gearing changes to account for the SP's timing. Both motors are running fairly cool (come off at 110 degree max after 8 mins), so I can't help but wonder whether I am just missing something. Really though, I am curious whether one of the motors is widely regarded as being better suited for 12th scale than the other one? Any thoughts? Thanks for any and all help or advice, it is greatly appreciated.
Use the D3 in the 12th then throw away the touring car then you have the Speed Passion as a back up!
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:29 PM   #37397
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Use the D3 in the 12th then throw away the touring car then you have the Speed Passion as a back up!
LOL That is exactly what I did!
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:31 PM   #37398
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The JR servo is a good piece. I have no complaints other than it might be a bit heavy, as it is metal gears.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:42 PM   #37399
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Originally Posted by THE GOOCH View Post
Which would be better a booster(which one), or a reciever pack( any recomendations on size and brand)?

Thanks for the quick replys
I prefer the booster(TQ Cells booster) because I have only one charger and I dont want to buy another to charge the rec pack.
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:29 PM   #37400
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The JR servo is a good piece. I have no complaints other than it might be a bit heavy, as it is metal gears.
There is a plastic gear version of it too. Borrowed one from a friend once when a pulled a wire out of mine.
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:42 PM   #37401
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Default chassis help

Can you guys help me pick a chassis to build?
Also what esc is a good one?
Also what do you guys mean by boosted?
Does that have to do with extra timing?
Thanks! B55
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:01 PM   #37402
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All of the chassis are basically equal, only setup matters and the kit stock setup is usually pretty good. In your FIRST build get a reamer and drill bits to make sure all of the suspension components move absolutely free and then some, a tiny amount of binding can ruin an otherwise perfect car.
Boosting means having dynamic timing advance built into your ESC, giving the motor far more RPM capability than it could have with static timing.
Most ESC's on the market today are pretty good, but Tekin and LRP seem to have the 1/12 market curbed. If you get the LRP Stock Spec V2, Orion 1s, or Viper 1s, you can run 1 cell without a booster.
The biggest advantage you can get for 1/12 racing is an old-timer at your track who knows all of the tricks and you actually LISTEN.
The biggest mistake I made when I started off was I didn't realize that the wrong tires look like the right tires but certainly don't work like the right tires.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:30 PM   #37403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
All of the chassis are basically equal, only setup matters and the kit stock setup is usually pretty good. In your FIRST build get a reamer and drill bits to make sure all of the suspension components move absolutely free and then some, a tiny amount of binding can ruin an otherwise perfect car.
Boosting means having dynamic timing advance built into your ESC, giving the motor far more RPM capability than it could have with static timing.
Most ESC's on the market today are pretty good, but Tekin and LRP seem to have the 1/12 market curbed. If you get the LRP Stock Spec V2, Orion 1s, or Viper 1s, you can run 1 cell without a booster.
The biggest advantage you can get for 1/12 racing is an old-timer at your track who knows all of the tricks and you actually LISTEN.
The biggest mistake I made when I started off was I didn't realize that the wrong tires look like the right tires but certainly don't work like the right tires.
An Oldtimer says Thankee sonny!
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:34 PM   #37404
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As does this one! I sit in my pit listening to a new guy telling his mates how it's done and realise that I have been doing it wrong for the last 30 years!!

The nuc thing about 12th is that everyone shares because they know that the only thing that gets you an A Final place is the ability to drive. No amount of money buys places, just the knowledge of how to set them up and drive the wheels off them. Enjoy it, and so will the old-timer who helps you.
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:41 PM   #37405
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What is the verdict on micro servos? Like just under 30X30 mm (L/W). I have read about some racers in the EU having goodluck with this setup. But everyone thus far in the states including servo manufacturers have expressed doubt.

They make fast enough servos with the required torque. There is the theory they might strip easier. But its easy enough to make adapters for existing savers.
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:48 PM   #37406
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Like others have mentioned, the JR servo does the job reliably, it's what I stick to.
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:05 PM   #37407
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I hear the Graupner DES676BB is also a choise a lot of guys in europe use.

regards Roy
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:26 PM   #37408
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I have a JR (which is 33X26X16). THe Graupner above is (32x16x33mm). If you look at the dimensions of most 1/12th servos they are usually 2-3mm larger per side (especially length and height). I'm talking the next size down.

Like this specifically:
Sanwa-HR-141 (27x12.1x30.5mm)
http://www.redrc.net/2011/04/sanwa-h...tal-112-servo/

Or the KO Propo PDS-3101 (30x12x26 mm) (Not really per no bearing)
http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...104&Itemid=150

Heck I even heard of someone using a real micro servo once like the HS-5065MG (24x12X24). That might have worked for their purposes, but I wouldn't trust it to have enough torque.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:08 PM   #37409
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How about the savox SH1357 35.0x15x29.2 0.07 sec sec/60 @6.0V
Aluminium gears and 2.5KG@6.0V
Nice smaal servo and Futaba teeth for servo saver.

regards Roy
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:18 PM   #37410
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Thats even larger than your previous suggestion! I'm speaking about micro/sub. Anyone here with knowledge on these?
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