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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-20-2011, 11:22 PM   #37366
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
What is a typical dual rate range for 12th carpet?

I did my first day of practice today with the AE 12R5.1(been 8 yrs since Ive ran 12th) and I ended up with my dual rate at 45%. That seems a bit low... but I used to run 12th on asphalt, never carpet.

I also noticed that the car would start out with gobs of steering... almost too much, to where it was very difficult to drive for the first 1 minute. Then it seemed to find a groove and would be great for the next 4-5 mins. And then it would pick up a push. The track was a little dirty and hadnt been sprayed, however.

The front tires had tons of fuzz and fibers on them when I pulled the car off(running Jaco Blacks in front). Does this indicate that I need to try a different rubber compound? Maybe a natural rubber tire instead of synthetic?
I heard from our track owner that spraying a carpet track makes the grip worse! I asked him if they would spray our track when we uncovered it for the winter series because it had no grip whatsoever. Surprisingly the grip came in later in the first race! I dont know, maybe thats part of the problem if it had been sprayed before? Thus you having to try out all kinds of tire combos.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:23 PM   #37367
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Well you might regret the last sentence. Of course, I have been asking Dirla. Skeen and EA just look at me like "did you really just ask me that" I am getting out there....if to do nothing else than be a moving road block

Thanks
They're all douches, (just kidding), but everyone has a different take on things. I've been beaten by all three,(but rarely by Nash), and EA always has more HP than sense(), Skeen is your only reasonable source of knowledge locally, and he's not even running 12th scale is he?

We all drive differently, and there are changes that can benefit some more than others. Look for a "GURU" to ask questions, or absorb info from as many reputable sources as possible. We all look at set-up from our own angle.......
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:30 PM   #37368
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They're all douches, (just kidding), but everyone has a different take on things. I've been beaten by all three,(but rarely by Nash), and EA always has more HP than sense(), Skeen is your only reasonable source of knowledge locally, and he's not even running 12th scale is he?

We all drive differently, and there are changes that can benefit some more than others. Look for a "GURU" to ask questions, or absorb info from as many reputable sources as possible. We all look at set-up from our own angle.......
Dirla has honestly helped me more than anyone. Skeen and EA pitch in. I just feel like the pestering child sometimes. lol. There is a lot to learn about 12th scale. I won't confirm Skeen having a 12, but he was doing something on the driver stand when they were running them.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:44 PM   #37369
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Dirla has honestly helped me more than anyone. Skeen and EA pitch in. I just feel like the pestering child sometimes. lol. There is a lot to learn about 12th scale. I won't confirm Skeen having a 12, but he was doing something on the driver stand when they were running them.
They are all great guys. I hope you got my sarcasm. All three of them are a wealth of info, (though Nash's is junior league), you're in good hands bro......
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:55 PM   #37370
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They are all great guys. I hope you got my sarcasm. All three of them are a wealth of info, (though Nash's is junior league), you're in good hands bro......
I caught it. They have been a wealth to me thus far. Dirla is kind of a mad scientist or something. He has proven CRC makes a tough car and I am doing the same for Associated. Mine just doesn't have the flux capacitor power his does. He actually changes the layout when he wrecks.lol
Thanks
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:36 AM   #37371
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I caught it. They have been a wealth to me thus far. Dirla is kind of a mad scientist or something. He has proven CRC makes a tough car and I am doing the same for Associated. Mine just doesn't have the flux capacitor power his does. He actually changes the layout when he wrecks.lol
Thanks
Dirla is straight-up Dr. Who. If he goes faster on the clock, but stops in the bus-stop, It's because he stepped into the tardis and moved forward in time. Just ask Craig Ferguson........
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:24 AM   #37372
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Anyone know where I can buy diff balls in bulk for a decent price? thanks
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:56 PM   #37373
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Anyone know where I can buy diff balls in bulk for a decent price? thanks
1 set of good ceramic balls is worth more than a 1000 bulk diff balls.
Save yourself a lot of work and just buy a good set of ceramics, they will last longer than any other component in the diff.

2nd most important thing in a diff is a very high quality bearing for the thrust cone. Actually this is THE most important component.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:16 PM   #37374
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I bought my pure silicon carbide (no metal) differential balls from Avid at $1 each, best money I ever spent on a R/C related product.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:19 PM   #37375
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Anyone know where I can buy diff balls in bulk for a decent price? thanks
RC4Less has some good prices on ceramic balls, and bearings. I have used them in my 1/10 pancar outside for 4 seasons now, and the diff is still butter smooth. (replace the bearing in the hub every season though!)

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Old 12-21-2011, 05:08 PM   #37376
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Thanks guys!
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:09 PM   #37377
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When running reactive caster, what should be the relationship between its resting angle and its compressed angle? Is the objective to bring the caster angle to zero at full compression or is that a bad starting point? I have read the canned version of what all of the different settings can do for the car performance at X-Y-Z in the corner but what is the preferred motion to go for for maximum corner speed?
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:19 AM   #37378
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Has anybody tried the new Team Orion Vortex VST Pro Stock Brushless Motor (17.5T) in 1/12??? I'm currently using Trinity motor's and wondering how they compare performance wise!
Thanks
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:23 AM   #37379
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Originally Posted by luckyhomes View Post
Just got my first 12th scale car and I'm hooked. Also my wallet is a lot lighter, so I'm thinking of using a old Sherline lathe to true the tires. I intend to mount a SaburrTooth burr in the tool post at a similar angle as the Hudy burr. I haven't made the arbor or the burr mount yet. Before I spend time on this, I have a few questions.

I has anyone measured the run out at the arbor on a quality tire truer? Depending on how my 3 jaw chuck closes I could have as much as 5 thous. run out.

Is the foam dust corrosive or likely to melt when sticking to oil and grease on the lathe?

What rpm do tire truers run?

Thanks
Hudy tier truer about 6000 RPM

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Old 12-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #37380
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I hear a lot of different arguments for and against running hardened diff balls.

For those of you who are no longer running the stock steel balls, are you using the ceramic/silicon-nitride balls? Or the tungsten-carbide balls?
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