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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-19-2011, 08:18 PM   #37351
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
I am having a problem with my xl hooking/spinning and/or diffing out in one direction (fast right turns past 90). The car tweaks level (both on a station with the coins)and is balanced. Tubes have fresh grease and the rear springs are fairly new. I cant feel any binding in the rear pod.

Worked on it all day Saturday but could not get it fixed. What should I start checking? I thought maybe a weak front spring??
I have had this problem several times this season. It is usually a couple of things.

1. Take all of the screws out of the bottom of the pod and remove the screws from the bottom of the cross brace. Then with one hand move the bottom pod plate back and forth and make sure it is not bound up.

2. Castor - Measure the castor of the front end. Do not go by the amount of shims. I have had one side be 3mm and the other 6mm. Don't be surprised if you have a completely different number of shims on each side to make it right. Usually 4-5mm is a good starting point. 6mm is usually too much.

3. replace front springs. It's cheap.

This has solved this issue every time for me. Good Luck

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Old 12-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #37352
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Going over the car this week.
Fresh springs on the way.
Thanks guys.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:31 PM   #37353
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Its strange, the springs that came on my CRC 3.2R lasted forever, the ones that came on my Gen-XL were garbage very quickly. I actually skirted over the issue thinking that something other than the spring had gone bad because it had never happened to me before, like the kingpin was too long or the pivot ball was incorrect, but it was the spring. I have no explanation other than that it just needs to be checked, sometimes you get sweet springs that work great and don't collapse but other times you get the short end of the stick.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:27 PM   #37354
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Its strange, the springs that came on my CRC 3.2R lasted forever, the ones that came on my Gen-XL were garbage very quickly. I actually skirted over the issue thinking that something other than the spring had gone bad because it had never happened to me before, like the kingpin was too long or the pivot ball was incorrect, but it was the spring. I have no explanation other than that it just needs to be checked, sometimes you get sweet springs that work great and don't collapse but other times you get the short end of the stick.
After reading about several issues with springs collapsing. I had to check this out for myself. So I picked up my car and was feeling the differant tension from each wheel. I decided to measure like I heard and WOW! What a big differance. Now I buy front springs when I see them on the rack and check regulary and change every few races.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:34 PM   #37355
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What is a typical dual rate range for 12th carpet?

I did my first day of practice today with the AE 12R5.1(been 8 yrs since Ive ran 12th) and I ended up with my dual rate at 45%. That seems a bit low... but I used to run 12th on asphalt, never carpet.

I also noticed that the car would start out with gobs of steering... almost too much, to where it was very difficult to drive for the first 1 minute. Then it seemed to find a groove and would be great for the next 4-5 mins. And then it would pick up a push. The track was a little dirty and hadnt been sprayed, however.

The front tires had tons of fuzz and fibers on them when I pulled the car off(running Jaco Blacks in front). Does this indicate that I need to try a different rubber compound? Maybe a natural rubber tire instead of synthetic?
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:48 PM   #37356
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
What is a typical dual rate range for 12th carpet?

I did my first day of practice today with the AE 12R5.1(been 8 yrs since Ive ran 12th) and I ended up with my dual rate at 45%. That seems a bit low... but I used to run 12th on asphalt, never carpet.

I also noticed that the car would start out with gobs of steering... almost too much, to where it was very difficult to drive for the first 1 minute. Then it seemed to find a groove and would be great for the next 4-5 mins. And then it would pick up a push. The track was a little dirty and hadnt been sprayed, however.

The front tires had tons of fuzz and fibers on them when I pulled the car off(running Jaco Blacks in front). Does this indicate that I need to try a different rubber compound? Maybe a natural rubber tire instead of synthetic?
I have to say that my 1/12 car uses only 75% of its total steering throw before it binds, and then I turn it down to 60% of that, overall the car will turn a 6' circle or so, which can be annoying if you're pointed right at the board.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #37357
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Right...first you have to set your servo throw end points left and right then turn down your dual rate from there. If you don't set the end points first you'll end up with some very low dual rate percentages.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:46 PM   #37358
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Right...first you have to set your servo throw end points left and right then turn down your dual rate from there. If you don't set the end points first you'll end up with some very low dual rate percentages.
Yep, that is what I did. Isnt my first rodeo

The EPAs were set to 65-70% left and right. Then the final dual rate setting ended up being 45%...

Like I said, seems bizarrely low right?
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:02 PM   #37359
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
What is a typical dual rate range for 12th carpet?

I did my first day of practice today with the AE 12R5.1(been 8 yrs since Ive ran 12th) and I ended up with my dual rate at 45%. That seems a bit low... but I used to run 12th on asphalt, never carpet.

I also noticed that the car would start out with gobs of steering... almost too much, to where it was very difficult to drive for the first 1 minute. Then it seemed to find a groove and would be great for the next 4-5 mins. And then it would pick up a push. The track was a little dirty and hadnt been sprayed, however.

The front tires had tons of fuzz and fibers on them when I pulled the car off(running Jaco Blacks in front). Does this indicate that I need to try a different rubber compound? Maybe a natural rubber tire instead of synthetic?
I am kinda dealing with the same thing from the front blacks. The best thing I have found to do is keep it in the race "line" this seems to help some. You can also vacuum the track. Blacks seem to be easier to drive, but my car (12R5.1) is doing the exact same thing. I think the push is coming from the debris they are picking up. I have also tired .18 springs in the front. This gives me a ton of steering at first then settles in to about right. The downside is if you don't round out your turns you can lift a rear wheel. Some will depend on the rest of your setup. I am a newbie stumbling with it too.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:41 PM   #37360
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The front tires had tons of fuzz and fibers on them when I pulled the car off(running Jaco Blacks in front). Does this indicate that I need to try a different rubber compound? Maybe a natural rubber tire instead of synthetic?
If you're picking up fuzz on black fronts, a natural (more real rubber), like lilac or magenta will only make your problem worse.

Perhaps try a grey front, or a slightly less aggressive rear tire. Which rear tires are you currently on?
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:44 PM   #37361
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If you're picking up fuzz on black fronts, a natural (more real rubber), like lilac or magenta will only make your problem worse.

Perhaps try a grey front, or a slightly less aggressive rear tire. Which rear tires are you currently on?
Won't the grey make the push worse? (just asking) I have black fr. Grey low rears
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:53 PM   #37362
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Won't the grey make the push worse? (just asking) I have black fr. Grey low rears
Not necessarily. A grey front should have a bit more turn-in than a black, and more exit. If the blacks are picking up fuzz, it's because they are digging in mid corner. A grey will pick up less fuzz and actually steer more center off.

I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but it's true. Same with Purple vs. Magenta.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:56 PM   #37363
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Not necessarily. A grey front should have a bit more turn-in than a black, and more exit. If the blacks are picking up fuzz, it's because they are digging in mid corner. A grey will pick up less fuzz and actually steer more center off.

I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but it's true. Same with Purple vs. Magenta.
Thanks that may solve a lot of my problems - well one of many any way. Should I keep the grey low rears?
Thanks
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:04 PM   #37364
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Thanks that may solve a lot of my problems - well one of many any way. Should I keep the grey low rears?
Thanks
Try the Grey-Low rears but have a set of Yellow rears handy as well.

There are times I've gone from Grey-Low rears/Black fronts to Yellow/Grey and been a bit quicker. It's all about balance, so be mindful of front to rear combos and how they affect your overall chassis dynamics.....

Unfortunately, there's no perfect "across the board" combination.

Just keep asking questions and we'll do our best to answer them.....
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:11 PM   #37365
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Try the Grey-Low rears but have a set of Yellow rears handy as well.

There are times I've gone from Grey-Low rears/Black fronts to Yellow/Grey and been a bit quicker. It's all about balance, so be mindful of front to rear combos and how they affect your overall chassis dynamics.....

Unfortunately, there's no perfect "across the board" combination.

Just keep asking questions and we'll do our best to answer them.....
Well you might regret the last sentence. Of course, I have been asking Dirla. Skeen and EA just look at me like "did you really just ask me that" I am getting out there....if to do nothing else than be a moving road block

Thanks
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