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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-25-2003, 08:46 AM   #3721
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
Here's another question I have about the ascari, does anyone know if this body is actually based on a real car???? If it is, can anyone post some pictures of the car for all to see. That would be really great. Thanks .
I don't have any pictures of the car, but it was raced with limited success in the European LeMans Series. I believe last year was it's final season.
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Old 08-25-2003, 09:40 AM   #3722
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Old 08-25-2003, 12:18 PM   #3723
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Default First time.

Rough first outing. Funny, really. I thought I was all ready to go after getting my tires cut to the desired diameter. I used a set of TRC (Mike D. - I know you suggested Jaco, but I'd already bought the TRC's by then.) Well, larger bearings for the front axles are needed, then the "inline" front axles because tires don't work with stock front axles and bearings, longer screws to connect the rear wheels to the hubs, and 1/4 nut driver. Washers had to be added to the right rear to space the wheel away from the chasis so it wouldn't rub. Also, I had problems with ride height. Even before hitting the track the ride height was too low, and that's with no spacers. After getting everything together, I run the car - very twitchy!!! I expected it to react more quickly than a TC, but I think that it was excessive. The inline front axle setup may have exaggerated things some. I'm giving up the TRC's and set it up again like suggested with Jaco tires.

Any ideas on why the ride height was so low?

Thanks,

John R.
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Old 08-25-2003, 12:25 PM   #3724
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Default Re: First time.

Quote:
Originally posted by John Robb
Rough first outing. Funny, really. I thought I was all ready to go after getting my tires cut to the desired diameter. I used a set of TRC (Mike D. - I know you suggested Jaco, but I'd already bought the TRC's by then.) Well, larger bearings for the front axles are needed, then the "inline" front axles because tires don't work with stock front axles and bearings, longer screws to connect the rear wheels to the hubs, and 1/4 nut driver. Washers had to be added to the right rear to space the wheel away from the chasis so it wouldn't rub. Also, I had problems with ride height. Even before hitting the track the ride height was too low, and that's with no spacers. After getting everything together, I run the car - very twitchy!!! I expected it to react more quickly than a TC, but I think that it was excessive. The inline front axle setup may have exaggerated things some. I'm giving up the TRC's and set it up again like suggested with Jaco tires.

Any ideas on why the ride height was so low?

Thanks,

John R.
What car, front end, rear pod plates and rear axle spacers do you have? What size did you cut the tires too? What was the measured ride height?
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Old 08-25-2003, 12:45 PM   #3725
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A 12th scale actually isnt very twitchy if it is set up properly. they just dont have the ineratia of a sedan so they can move easier, but they should not be nervious.

as far as the ascari body.... the real car is defunct and does not run, the team is gone, so the licence is no more. protoform didnt have to pay for any rights so thats why they chose that name. I think the body is very LOOSELY based upon the LMP 675 MG/LOLA. as far as cutting it out, besides it being illegal, i dont think it handles as well, or at least this is what i was told by some of their team drivers.

louis: no clue on roll-out (sorry). the reason i suggest a 19 turn is because they are basically stock motors on steriods (the spec ones with laydown brushes, not the regular mods). if you have both try out both, however i dont think a 12 turn can spool up fast enough for that track, but who knows. try it. i would start like a 20/100 pinion/spur.
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Old 08-25-2003, 12:55 PM   #3726
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Thanks anyway, I haven't got a 19 turn so I'll give the 12 a go and see how it runs. I'm going to get some pinions between 20-25.
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Old 08-25-2003, 01:21 PM   #3727
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Default Mike D.

I have a 12L3 that's all stock except servo mount. I cut the tires to your suggested 44m front and 49mm rear. Ride height was at best 3.02mm. Couldn't get it to 3.5. It seems that using the TRC tires and all the adjustments needed to run them got me far away from your recommended setup for that car at Mimi's.

John R.
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Old 08-26-2003, 10:53 AM   #3728
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Mike D,
Have you run your IRS Rugrat on carpet yet?
Can you share your feelings regarding the car as a T-Plate or Side Spring car?
Also, do you have any carpet setups, using the AE stock front suspension?
Thanks
Dave
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:34 AM   #3729
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Fiddle Fadel,

Look at pp. 117 for setup advice Mike D. gave me for AE. Some information may be specific to the carpet track in our area. Hope this helps.

John R.
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:41 AM   #3730
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Default Re: Mike D.

Quote:
Originally posted by John Robb
I have a 12L3 that's all stock except servo mount. I cut the tires to your suggested 44m front and 49mm rear. Ride height was at best 3.02mm. Couldn't get it to 3.5. It seems that using the TRC tires and all the adjustments needed to run them got me far away from your recommended setup for that car at Mimi's.

John R.
John - I used to run a 12L3 and I don't remember having those problems. I think you said before that you ran inline front axles. Those will make the car very twitchy but they also make your front ride height 1-2mm lower. Are you using the standard #1,2,3 rear axle spacers? There is an optional #4 rear axle spacer that will raise the rear ride height more. I am also using the IRS rear pod plates that raise the rear ride height 2.25 mm vs the stock asc plates.
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:54 AM   #3731
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Mike D.,

Yeah, I did use the inline axles. Now it makes sense. The only reason I tried those was to use the TRC tires I had already bought. The manual states explicitly that they will make the car turn in more aggressively. Also, with the front being so low I changed the rear height spacers which threw stuff off. Another thing I tried was the inserts that reduces rear chasis roll which also makes the car more responsive, thinking that it shouldn't be that bad, because without it the rear seemed to (by hand) travel a lot side-to-side. I think I'll be fine with your original suggestions. Going to Mimi's sometime this weekend to try it again.

Thanks,

John R.
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Old 08-26-2003, 12:02 PM   #3732
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I only have a spring car, but a roll limiter will make the car act and re act more.

thicker damper fluid will take away the twitchy better than anything else. I think I know what you are talking about, it takes the slightest imput and does that and more.

more or thicker damper disk lube will take that right away.

Are you running the .063 or .075 Tbar?

I have a carpet knife, and the damper tube fluid makes a big difference just like anything else in a 1/12.

If you have plenty of steering, set your car so the front is slightly higer than the rear. Stiffer king pin springs will take away some of the re action, and like you said trailing axles.

Time behind the wheel is your best friend.

David root Enjoy your 1/12!
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Old 08-26-2003, 12:28 PM   #3733
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David R. -

I'm using the .075 T-bar. I was thinking of adding more AE diff. lube to the discs. At some point I'll try the damper tubes . . . I thought I'd make the basic kit my starting point before venturing out. Really want to drive a stock motor well first so I won't just be in the way of the other racers. Even if I'm a "back marker" at first, I'll be able to drive a line and make space when others pass. =)

John R.
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Old 08-26-2003, 12:32 PM   #3734
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fiddle Fadel
Mike D,
Have you run your IRS Rugrat on carpet yet?
Can you share your feelings regarding the car as a T-Plate or Side Spring car?
Also, do you have any carpet setups, using the AE stock front suspension?
Thanks
Dave
Fiddle Fadel - Yeah, I have run the IRS Rugrat on carpet alot. I ran a 12L3 for about 4 or 5 years and found that the IRS car steered better and has more rear bite on turn exit. I used to run a Carpet Knife a looooong time ago, but I found it easier to setup and drive a t-bar car. No one car has a superior advantage, it comes down what is more comfortable to drive. The following is my carpet setup on my IRS Rugrat:

Trailing front axles (stock kit parts), reactive front end, castor shims - one front and one back, 18 or 20 springs depending on traction,.063 t-bar(modified) and .078 t-bar(stock), tweak screws, 30 wt in the shock with silver(associated) spring and medium ball stud front and rear, batteries back, Losi thick hydra fluid in the IRS damper tubes, 3-4mm ride height front and rear, Jaco purple front and pink or white rear(mod) and grey rear(stock), 4mm of tire stagger (ie 43mm front/47mm rear, 44mm front/48mm rear, etc)
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Old 08-26-2003, 01:03 PM   #3735
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Hey Mike D.,

Is that 4mm tire stagger generalized or what you use for your IRS?

John R.
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