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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-11-2011, 06:36 AM   #37276
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Thanks guys I just wanted to know what will just solder battery plugs, motor and speedo meaning will a 25 Watt get hot enough or should I get the 40 Watt

I don't want to spend bucks I don't have to since I'll only use it once in a while

And also what diff lube is everyone using lately

We use to just get the associated diff lube in the little container with black lettering

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Old 12-11-2011, 06:50 AM   #37277
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The Weller SP40 is all the iron you will need and under $20 last I checked.

AE lube is still the best.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:27 AM   #37278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelV View Post
Love that iron. Still probably have that setup somewhere. Was especially awesome with the big tip for soldering packs back in the days of cells.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
Buy yourself a professional Iron, Hakko 936 or something similar. I have that high heat Weller Iron, and it was good for doing battery bars because it heats up over 900 degrees, but it's a very clumsy iron.

Get something like this...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXATBK&P=ML

Adjustable, durable, and easy to use. Most come with two tips, one for general soldering and one for smaller stuff. You can dial the heat up for applications like taking the leads off a LRP speedo; or dial it down for doing lower temp stuff like a circuit board.

60/40 solder is best for almost everything;
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...4oz-MNT1064004

I disagree with the silver solder. You don't need it for most things, it requires more heat, and will wear your tip faster. For most motor, and small wire soldering the 60/40 is the best to use. Silver solder really is only needed sometimes with battery leads, and usually only in modified. Not a bad idea to have it on hand, but a small roll should last you years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Thanks guys I just wanted to know what will just solder battery plugs, motor and speedo meaning will a 25 Watt get hot enough or should I get the 40 Watt

I don't want to spend bucks I don't have to since I'll only use it once in a while

And also what diff lube is everyone using lately

We use to just get the associated diff lube in the little container with black lettering
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
The Weller SP40 is all the iron you will need and under $20 last I checked.

AE lube is still the best.
Sorry guys, I wasn't saying he needed my setup, just passing along what I use. Every time I get ready to pull the trigger on a nice adjustable solder station like I have at work, I find something else to spend that much money on.

For 12ga and under, 40W should be plenty, you get less component heat with 60W with larger wire. My 80W isn't used for fine work, I have an off-brand cheap 25W iron for that, but the original question was about battery, motor and ESC connections.

For silver solder, most will find it unnecessary, but I do a lot of electrical work outside of RC also, so I always need it, and it saves against potentially disastrous mix-ups if I don't have multiple grades of solder around.

Regardless of what you're using, the Radio Shack Tip Cleaner/Tinner that I linked is AWESOME for keeping your tip shiny, long lasting and flowing great. It's non-abrasive, and is a lot cleaner to use to leave a protective layer on the tip when storing than solder itself, and leaves a larger, more even layer to prevent tip oxidation. Seriously, for anyone that hasn't tried it, spend the $10 and get it, you'll thank me later, just like I thanked the buddy that introduced me to it.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:24 PM   #37279
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Thanks for the advice for the 1/12 guys, what I eventually went to on my Gen-XL was 30,000wt in the side dampeners, blue side springs with almost no preload, 50wt in the center shock with a CRC "white" center spring, 0.018" front springs preloaded about a half millimeter, and some 30k fluid on the front kingpin, and that heavily damped but softly sprung combination (sharing nothing with the nearly box-stock setup I had been running) went almost three tenths a lap faster than I had ever gone. The pulsing steering is gone, the car carries energy well, and I think its going to be a good ending.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:29 PM   #37280
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question to all the 12th scale gurus:

When you put your car to a tweak station and the bubble is on the left do you adjust the side springs? if so then is it ok, let say the left side has more turn than the right? if that's not how to do it can you guys explactuate.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:12 PM   #37281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
I'm actually more looking forward to running some different rims on the car for a change.

Link to Enneti tires.
We're gonna blow 'em at $9.99 see if it generates interest. Did I mention I personally can't wait to run the rim?
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
.
.
.

Bob, do you have an expected arrival date for these?
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:16 PM   #37282
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Hey 12th guys... Of you guys using the LRP speedo, how many are using the stock large/single cap? What about the Works team caps?

Another question... Ive seen someone using the larger 7.4v Works cap for blinky 17.5 12th? Is there a particular reason for using the larger cap in the slower non-timing classes vs using the smaller 3.7v Works cap?
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:17 PM   #37283
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Bob, do you have an expected arrival date for these?
Tuesday the Dec 13th 2011, or Wednesday Dec 14th 2011. Next day or so.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:57 PM   #37284
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im going get a 4x4in sheet of glass to sand me diffs and was wondering what would be the best thickness 1/4 or 3/8?????
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:24 PM   #37285
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You lost me at sheet of glass. Are you using a powder abrasive or something?

I found that the smoothest and longest-lasting diff I could produce was with nitride balls that I reuse, standard steel rings as opposed to lightweight ones, and a thrust bearing to hold it all together. Its expensive only once.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:40 PM   #37286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
Tuesday the Dec 13th 2011, or Wednesday Dec 14th 2011. Next day or so.
Excelent thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
You lost me at sheet of glass. Are you using a powder abrasive or something?

I found that the smoothest and longest-lasting diff I could produce was with nitride balls that I reuse, standard steel rings as opposed to lightweight ones, and a thrust bearing to hold it all together. Its expensive only once.
I belive that he plans on using the glass for a flat surface to sand on rat. I would recomend 3/8 lexan instead of glass, you can carry that around in your pit box without the worry of it breaking and having glass schards all over the place.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:54 PM   #37287
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Have a question about piston sizing..


In my TC use a 1.1mm hole on the pistons, anyone using different piston sizes on the center shock?

Just been using standard holes but was thinking of experimenting
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:15 PM   #37288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
You lost me at sheet of glass. Are you using a powder abrasive or something?

I found that the smoothest and longest-lasting diff I could produce was with nitride balls that I reuse, standard steel rings as opposed to lightweight ones, and a thrust bearing to hold it all together. Its expensive only once.
If you can get the standard rings flat and run both the inner and outer diff ball holes you will get a very smooth diff...the more diff balls you can use the smoother it will be.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:18 PM   #37289
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Ok thanks for the advice right now im running the crc 72 spur with 16 3/32 ceramaic balls
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:20 PM   #37290
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That's the great thing about the CRC gear...16 diff balls all in the outer ring...that's more diff balls than most gears have in total.
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