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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-10-2011, 01:09 PM   #37261
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You just have to try the synthetic rear foams to see how they work for you.
I have tried white a few times, don't care for them as they don't offer more grip than yellow, and they wear faster.
Grey, Orange, Yellow are fairly comparable on grip, Yellow being my fav as it seems the most consistent of the 3, however Orange and Grey won't chunk as easy if you are hitting things
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:11 PM   #37262
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
You just have to try the synthetic rear foams to see how they work for you.
I have tried white a few times, don't care for them as they don't offer more grip than yellow, and they wear faster.
Grey, Orange, Yellow are fairly comparable on grip, Yellow being my fav as it seems the most consistent of the 3, however Orange and Grey won't chunk as easy if you are hitting things
I don't think CRC makes orange are they harder or softer than grey? Or is orange a combo tire like grey low and what did you experience using greylow

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:18 PM   #37263
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I don't think CRC makes orange are they harder or softer than grey? Or is orange a combo tire like grey low and what did you experience using greylow

Thanks
Yes, Orange = Grey/Low as far as I know.
They work well, very popular foam with grey (35), Yellow (30) mix.
Grey is used on the outside 1/3 to 1/4 of the tire.
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:35 PM   #37264
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Yes, Orange = Grey/Low as far as I know.
They work well, very popular foam with grey (35), Yellow (30) mix.
Grey is used on the outside 1/3 to 1/4 of the tire.
Well with magenta ft as a possible standard for me I will test the softer rear tires to see which one has rear bite yet rotates under power but not crazy loose

Late
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:40 PM   #37265
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Trouble with 120LT build, page14, M3X5 Screw does not appear to reach is this part of the instructions correct? I have tried for a long time and still cant get it to reach, perhaps someone here has a tip on this section cause it just will NOT reach.
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Old 12-10-2011, 04:06 PM   #37266
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Never mind, sorry about the dumb question i figured it out, LOL!
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:10 PM   #37267
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I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:22 PM   #37268
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
@RBF

Raced my second race with my Rebel12 and did a little better this last race but car seemed to be skaty in the rear end at low speeds.

I was using Jaco magenta ft and pink rear. Pretty small. The first time I raced it I was unaware that the track width had to be adjusted in ft and rear for Jaco's. So I had basically the same set up as first time but fixed track width for jaco's and the car became sorta drivable but had that rear traction problem. Impossible to drive at low speed. Now I'm gonna just use CRC and have track width ft and rear appropriately set.

I'm asking you cause you said you had good experience with the synthetic yellow tires in rear. They have some grey rears at Norcal which I think are just slightly harder than yellow and they have white rear also. I was given like 7 sets of magenta ft CRC so I will just stick with those since they have pretty good steering for probably indoor and out

My question is what might I experience if using the grey/white in the rear. One of the guys in mod here runs totally chunked grey rears and has massive rear bite and lots of steering with magenta ft. I will order some yellow rears to test later but what is your opinion on the grey/white

In general my setup has .020 ft and soft rear springs and medium top with 15000 rear damp side and reactive castor at 5

Just looking for some "drive-able" rear bite and might even run the rear at like 45-46mm to start

When I raced carpet in AZ the whole magenta ft and pink rear was stuck but pink rear is not working for me here so I'm like what's up dude. I also tried grey/white rear in AZ and totally did not work for me like the pink rear and magenta ft so I'm learning about different carpet conditions not to mention the lipo/link cars addition to the sport in relationship to the tires

Thanks David

Kel
It,s funny how some guys just show up with an oddball tire or set up and just hook up. Meanwhile I mess with all these combos and seems like I am back at square one more times than I can count!
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:34 PM   #37269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
It,s funny how some guys just show up with an oddball tire or set up and just hook up. Meanwhile I mess with all these combos and seems like I am back at square one more times than I can count!
Honestly Josh you are looking better and better every run dude

And your running like 3 classes so your probably doing better than you think

Plus your learning as you go

I will be testing some new CRC tires tomorrow

Hope I can use your tire truer tomorrow if your bringing it

See you then
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:52 PM   #37270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks
Some guys at the track look at me funny for my soldering iron, but I get a lot of requests to borrow it, or to do solder work for them.

I use a cheapish Weller 80W , an add-on iron stand, with silver solder [pay attention to silver content, higher is better, linked is 2%, Novak is 3%, and I usually find 4% in my local Radio Shack] and use this stuff to cool the tip off when I'm done to keep the tip fresh, it's 3 years old now and still has a shiny tip.
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:47 PM   #37271
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Love that iron. Still probably have that setup somewhere. Was especially awesome with the big tip for soldering packs back in the days of cells.
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:51 PM   #37272
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Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
Trouble with 120LT build, page14, M3X5 Screw does not appear to reach is this part of the instructions correct? I have tried for a long time and still cant get it to reach, perhaps someone here has a tip on this section cause it just will NOT reach.
Hey are you running up in new rochelle with your 12th scale?
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:43 PM   #37273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt


Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks
Buy yourself a professional Iron, Hakko 936 or something similar. I have that high heat Weller Iron, and it was good for doing battery bars because it heats up over 900 degrees, but it's a very clumsy iron.

Get something like this...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXATBK&P=ML

Adjustable, durable, and easy to use. Most come with two tips, one for general soldering and one for smaller stuff. You can dial the heat up for applications like taking the leads off a LRP speedo; or dial it down for doing lower temp stuff like a circuit board.

60/40 solder is best for almost everything;
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...4oz-MNT1064004

I disagree with the silver solder. You don't need it for most things, it requires more heat, and will wear your tip faster. For most motor, and small wire soldering the 60/40 is the best to use. Silver solder really is only needed sometimes with battery leads, and usually only in modified. Not a bad idea to have it on hand, but a small roll should last you years.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:50 PM   #37274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks
Might be more than you are willing to spend but Hakko IMO is the best in the business. I invested in one about 5+ years ago and it is still going strong. The temp is adjustable, a light lets you know when it's at the target temp and they offer tips of every size you could want.

The new model is the FX-888 which replaced the 936.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:36 PM   #37275
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Originally Posted by JrodKyo View Post
Hey are you running up in new rochelle with your 12th scale?
Yes but not until next week, waiting on a new radio and i am new to 12 scale.
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