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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-05-2011, 09:21 AM   #37231
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How do you guys fix the jacos front sloppy bearing holes??
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:40 AM   #37232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyhomes View Post
Just got my first 12th scale car and I'm hooked. Also my wallet is a lot lighter, so I'm thinking of using a old Sherline lathe to true the tires. I intend to mount a SaburrTooth burr in the tool post at a similar angle as the Hudy burr. I haven't made the arbor or the burr mount yet. Before I spend time on this, I have a few questions.
I've thought about this, but I already have a tire truer, and my metal lathes aren't very portable, but I think I can answer your questions.
Quote:
I has anyone measured the run out at the arbor on a quality tire truer? Depending on how my 3 jaw chuck closes I could have as much as 5 thous. run out.
5 thou run-out isn't going to be noticeable at all. We're truing foam rubber, which flexes and moves, 5 thou is really nothing in this case, and the wheels most tires are mounted to have WAY more run-out anyway. My Hudy arbor on my old manual Eagle Truer has a total run-out around 7 thou at the wheel mounting/centering rings. Sometimes I can loosen the pinch bolt and mount to a different spot on the motor shaft and get the run-out down, but again, it's not really noticeable.
Quote:
Is the foam dust corrosive or likely to melt when sticking to oil and grease on the lathe?
I really doubt the dust is corrosive, or I should say there's no evidence of it being corrosive on my 8 year old tire lathe. The foam will probably make a gooey mess with any oils and grease on the lathe table, but it shouldn't be especially hard to clean as long as you keep solvents away from the foam powder. Dryer is better for cleanup anywhere foam dust could end up.
Quote:
What rpm do tire truers run?
3600 or so.
Quote:
Thanks
Good luck.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:59 AM   #37233
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How do you guys fix the jacos front sloppy bearing holes??
Take a two thin pieces of tape and run them down the wheel into the bearing hole opposite to each other. Then push the bearing into the hole. The tape will help take up the empty space and tighten the bearing. You really only need to do the outside part of the wheel.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:09 PM   #37234
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Take a two thin pieces of tape and run them down the wheel into the bearing hole opposite to each other. Then push the bearing into the hole. The tape will help take up the empty space and tighten the bearing. You really only need to do the outside part of the wheel.
We do this with 3 pieces of thin tape in an effort to center the bearing and minimize runnout. Probably not necessary in many cases, though.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:23 PM   #37235
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Take a two thin pieces of tape and run them down the wheel into the bearing hole opposite to each other. Then push the bearing into the hole. The tape will help take up the empty space and tighten the bearing. You really only need to do the outside part of the wheel.
Put blue painters tape over hole in the outside of the rim. Use an Xacto to make an X where the bearing goes. Push the bearing in. Trim around bearing. Salt to taste.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:34 PM   #37236
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Thanks
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:55 PM   #37237
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Put blue painters tape over hole in the outside of the rim. Use an Xacto to make an X where the bearing goes. Push the bearing in. Trim around bearing. Salt to taste.
Exactly what I do, works perfectly. I only have a problem with the black Prizms (Parma) though, actual Jacos or Jaco wheeled Xceeds have been fine for me.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:06 PM   #37238
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I didnt have blue but had tan masking tape and just did the wheels on my car and seen a big difference in wheel wobble. Seems all my white rim prisms all are a little loose. I think this will help make my car alot more consitant.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:50 PM   #37239
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I use my soldering iron to melt a few spots around the inside of the outer hole in the wheel. The ridge formed when it melts seats the bearing nice and snug.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:44 AM   #37240
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To my knowledge when a 1/12 scale starts to double-steer and or have steering and traction in pulses around a corner it means that the front end isn't moving freely, however the front end in my Gen-XL moves very free and still steers in pulses, it goes around the track fairly well but its not confidence inspiring so pushing it for faster laps becomes an i-don't-want-to-clip-that-apex exercise.

In the back I run light fluid (less that 3000wt) with a CRC white side spring, an associated Gold spring on the shock with 30wt shock oil. In the front its a 0.020" thick CRC stock spring with no tube lube on the kingpin, just a dab of Associated Green Slime in the plastic insert, the 5 degree reactive caster block with 3 degrees of static, almost zero camber, 1-2 degrees of toe out, Pink rear tires and purple fronts. If I add steering throw, it just gets worse in its pulsing and scrubs energy, but never seems to get to where the back end will really come around, it just seems to pulse to a stop like the front brakes are on.

I'm thinking of going to a heavier fluid in the center shock with a heavier spring, and heavier side dampener fluid with a lighter side spring like a CRC Blue in an effort to slow down the transition of weight to the front as I suspect what is happening is the weight of the car is bouncing off the front spring and then rebounding due to lack of dampening. Has anybody else had this sort of problem before? Double-steer for no apparent reason?
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:36 PM   #37241
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
To my knowledge when a 1/12 scale starts to double-steer and or have steering and traction in pulses around a corner it means that the front end isn't moving freely, however the front end in my Gen-XL moves very free and still steers in pulses, it goes around the track fairly well but its not confidence inspiring so pushing it for faster laps becomes an i-don't-want-to-clip-that-apex exercise.

In the back I run light fluid (less that 3000wt) with a CRC white side spring, an associated Gold spring on the shock with 30wt shock oil. In the front its a 0.020" thick CRC stock spring with no tube lube on the kingpin, just a dab of Associated Green Slime in the plastic insert, the 5 degree reactive caster block with 3 degrees of static, almost zero camber, 1-2 degrees of toe out, Pink rear tires and purple fronts. If I add steering throw, it just gets worse in its pulsing and scrubs energy, but never seems to get to where the back end will really come around, it just seems to pulse to a stop like the front brakes are on.

I'm thinking of going to a heavier fluid in the center shock with a heavier spring, and heavier side dampener fluid with a lighter side spring like a CRC Blue in an effort to slow down the transition of weight to the front as I suspect what is happening is the weight of the car is bouncing off the front spring and then rebounding due to lack of dampening. Has anybody else had this sort of problem before? Double-steer for no apparent reason?
In my experience, the main cause of Double-Steer is from the wrong tyre selection, imo, Pink/Purple is an extreme fix for a loose car.
If the rear is locked in, try magenta/magenta, or magenta front/pink rear.

When the car is right I only use about 60% Dual Rate.
Any more and it's scrubbing and or double-steering.

For a baseline, 100% dual rate is set by adjusting the epa L/R so that full lock is attained, but not forced, i.e. wheels, and any steering bits are not binding, or touching anything.

Loose is fast, some drivers like a car that will rotate hard, i prefer a car that cuts tight arcs, but never brakes loose at the rear so much that I have to counter-steer into a slide.
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:14 PM   #37242
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Running 1s saddle pack, 8.5t brushless. Can anyone guide me on gearing the car ?
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:20 PM   #37243
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In my experience, the main cause of Double-Steer is from the wrong tyre selection, imo, Pink/Purple is an extreme fix for a loose car.
If the rear is locked in, try magenta/magenta, or magenta front/pink rear.

When the car is right I only use about 60% Dual Rate.
Any more and it's scrubbing and or double-steering.

For a baseline, 100% dual rate is set by adjusting the epa L/R so that full lock is attained, but not forced, i.e. wheels, and any steering bits are not binding, or touching anything.

Loose is fast, some drivers like a car that will rotate hard, i prefer a car that cuts tight arcs, but never brakes loose at the rear so much that I have to counter-steer into a slide.
You're exactly right about the steering throw, setting L/R end points and then dialing it back is what I do as well. 60% seems about right, but the dual steer was still present when I was running magenta fronts before switching to the purple, makes little difference but no matter, I will test it out on practice day.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:10 PM   #37244
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You're exactly right about the steering throw, setting L/R end points and then dialing it back is what I do as well. 60% seems about right, but the dual steer was still present when I was running magenta fronts before switching to the purple, makes little difference but no matter, I will test it out on practice day.
Could be the rear is a little too locked in, or tire diameters are too large.
So the sidewall is flexing and causing the issue.

We ran some itty bitties at the iic race, where the grip was intense.
But at our club races at TQ, we can run larger dia tires.

Have to test the synthetics, vs: the rubber type, then play with dia, and see what works best, then stick with that and fine tune the chassis.

I know you guys were chasing the track a bit with the Off-Road dust issues, maybe now it's more consistent ?
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:29 PM   #37245
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Default cause of double steer

It's likely that a major source of your double steering issue is too light of dampening in the side tubes. Most guys run at least 10,000 in the tubes these days (I think the blue cap CRC bottle is about 10,000). A few of the team drivers have been going as stiff as 50,000. I suggest that you try 20,000. Then, an easy way to tell if it's too thick is to run a few laps with the 20,000, pull over quickly and pop off one tube and run a few more laps with just one tube connected. You'll know right away if that simple and quick trackside change made the car better or worse. If the car gets better with just one tube connected, than 20,000 is too thick. If if it gets worse, then 20,000 is not thick enough. Lately 20,000 has been my default tube lube and I go up or down slightly from there depending on track conditions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
To my knowledge when a 1/12 scale starts to double-steer and or have steering and traction in pulses around a corner it means that the front end isn't moving freely, however the front end in my Gen-XL moves very free and still steers in pulses, it goes around the track fairly well but its not confidence inspiring so pushing it for faster laps becomes an i-don't-want-to-clip-that-apex exercise.

In the back I run light fluid (less that 3000wt) with a CRC white side spring, an associated Gold spring on the shock with 30wt shock oil. In the front its a 0.020" thick CRC stock spring with no tube lube on the kingpin, just a dab of Associated Green Slime in the plastic insert, the 5 degree reactive caster block with 3 degrees of static, almost zero camber, 1-2 degrees of toe out, Pink rear tires and purple fronts. If I add steering throw, it just gets worse in its pulsing and scrubs energy, but never seems to get to where the back end will really come around, it just seems to pulse to a stop like the front brakes are on.

I'm thinking of going to a heavier fluid in the center shock with a heavier spring, and heavier side dampener fluid with a lighter side spring like a CRC Blue in an effort to slow down the transition of weight to the front as I suspect what is happening is the weight of the car is bouncing off the front spring and then rebounding due to lack of dampening. Has anybody else had this sort of problem before? Double-steer for no apparent reason?
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