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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-03-2011, 05:12 PM   #37201
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
I've got black rears to go with your yellow ft
Ah, relics of Oval racing days I saw a set of purple rears in a bargain box in Phoenix once upon a time, should have taken the plunge

One thing, what is that mechanical Pillsbury Dough Boy icon you have now? It creeps me out every time I see it, reminds me of the villain of a slasher film, I guess the plot would be a doll given life from the soul of a neglected child who just wanted cookies or something.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:13 PM   #37202
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Ah, relics of Oval racing days I saw a set of purple rears in a bargain box in Phoenix once upon a time, should have taken the plunge
I've got 14 sets ...lol
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:19 PM   #37203
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One thing, what is that mechanical Pillsbury Dough Boy icon you have now? It creeps me out every time I see it, reminds me of the villain of a slasher film, I guess the plot would be a doll given life from the soul of a neglected child who just wanted cookies or something.
So so wrong

It's Waffle Bot from "A Very Harold & Kumar 3D Christmas"

Thank you drive through ...lol
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:31 PM   #37204
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While on the subject, how does a gray front work? I could use something a bit grippier than black but not in the pink/magenta family. Might have to try those yellow fronts.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:34 PM   #37205
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I'm looking for a little help with my car. This may be a bit to broad to get any help and I may just be me venting. First im not a total noob to racing but this is my first season of pan racing and everyone here is new or havn't done it for a while also so please no post telling me to ask the guys that are fast because we are all struggling. Car is a CRC XL 10.5 blinky.

Issue one is I am going through bearings like crazy. Mostly front but a few on the rear axle. I went through 4 front bearings today. I am checking for carpet fuzz and cleaning after every race. I have tried them dry and with bearing lube w/ no luck. I'm not bouncing of walls enough to be destroying them this quick. They are steal not ceramic. Is this common with these cars or possibly a bad batch or something with the car or driving style.

Second, all the cars seem like they are chattering around the sweepers at full speed which is making it hard to stay in the groove and maintain the speed I want on sweepers.

Third, my diff feels inconsistent during qualifiers. I will have it set then a couple mins in it starts to slip then feels like it gets tighter a couple mins after that.

This isn't all my problems but just what comes to mind. Sorry its a long post and I realize that without seeing or driving the car its hard to diagnose, but at least if I car figure out the bearing situation so I can finish a race I will be happier than I am now.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:47 PM   #37206
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Not all bearings are created equal. Some will take a serious pounding and keep on going, others a slight tap and they blow apart. I believe CRC just came out with some new steering blocks with 1/8th axles. 1/8th bearings can take a hit better though I rarely blew the bigger ones either.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:30 PM   #37207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy w View Post
I'm looking for a little help with my car. This may be a bit to broad to get any help and I may just be me venting. First im not a total noob to racing but this is my first season of pan racing and everyone here is new or havn't done it for a while also so please no post telling me to ask the guys that are fast because we are all struggling. Car is a CRC XL 10.5 blinky.

Issue one is I am going through bearings like crazy. Mostly front but a few on the rear axle. I went through 4 front bearings today. I am checking for carpet fuzz and cleaning after every race. I have tried them dry and with bearing lube w/ no luck. I'm not bouncing of walls enough to be destroying them this quick. They are steal not ceramic. Is this common with these cars or possibly a bad batch or something with the car or driving style.

Second, all the cars seem like they are chattering around the sweepers at full speed which is making it hard to stay in the groove and maintain the speed I want on sweepers.

Third, my diff feels inconsistent during qualifiers. I will have it set then a couple mins in it starts to slip then feels like it gets tighter a couple mins after that.

This isn't all my problems but just what comes to mind. Sorry its a long post and I realize that without seeing or driving the car its hard to diagnose, but at least if I car figure out the bearing situation so I can finish a race I will be happier than I am now.
Don't know what's up with your front bearing issue, I use that size brg in WGT and haven't had any issues. Perhaps low quality bearings ?

About that diff though.
If it slips at all, it's too loose, yes it will tighten up some when it gets hot, but that's not how it should work.

Sand the diff plates with 600-1000 wet/dry, make sure they are flat, easy to check.
When your diff is right, you should NOT be able to slip the spur with your thumb, while holding both wheels.
For mod, you may even go a touch more on the diff pre-load.

Here are a new set, with a just a min of sanding to check.
Shiny portion of rings are high spots.




Tons more 12th scale build tips and articles HERE
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-diffring.jpg   1/12 forum-diffringb.jpg  
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:39 PM   #37208
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Don't know what's up with your front bearing issue, I use that size brg in WGT and haven't had any issues. Perhaps low quality bearings ?

About that diff though.
If it slips at all, it's too loose, yes it will tighten up some when it gets hot, but that's not how it should work.

Sand the diff plates with 600-1000 wet/dry, make sure they are flat, easy to check.
When your diff is right, you should NOT be able to slip the spur with your thumb, while holding both wheels.
For mod, you may even go a touch more on the diff pre-load.

Here are a new set, with a just a min of sanding to check.
Shiny portion of rings are high spots.




Tons more 12th scale build tips and articles HERE
Sorry, after re-reading my post I realized I didn't write whay I was thinking. I set my diff so it does not slip, and it won't for the first few minutes then it starts to slip mid run. What I thought like you said, it should get tighter not looser when it gets heated up during the race.

Sometimes I feel like I adjust it too tight. I can't move the spur with my index and thumb while holding the tires, but it will still slip after a while.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:41 PM   #37209
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I am not sure when I'll be able to go racing & thought it wasn't a good thing to store them fully charged? It's a new pack & like I said, I just received my GFX back so I couldn't wait til race day to charge/discharge.... I only took 2000mah out.
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Why are you discharging a LiPo for storage?
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:47 PM   #37210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy w View Post
I'm looking for a little help with my car. This may be a bit to broad to get any help and I may just be me venting. First im not a total noob to racing but this is my first season of pan racing and everyone here is new or havn't done it for a while also so please no post telling me to ask the guys that are fast because we are all struggling. Car is a CRC XL 10.5 blinky.

Issue one is I am going through bearings like crazy. Mostly front but a few on the rear axle. I went through 4 front bearings today. I am checking for carpet fuzz and cleaning after every race. I have tried them dry and with bearing lube w/ no luck. I'm not bouncing of walls enough to be destroying them this quick. They are steal not ceramic. Is this common with these cars or possibly a bad batch or something with the car or driving style.

Second, all the cars seem like they are chattering around the sweepers at full speed which is making it hard to stay in the groove and maintain the speed I want on sweepers.

Third, my diff feels inconsistent during qualifiers. I will have it set then a couple mins in it starts to slip then feels like it gets tighter a couple mins after that.

This isn't all my problems but just what comes to mind. Sorry its a long post and I realize that without seeing or driving the car its hard to diagnose, but at least if I car figure out the bearing situation so I can finish a race I will be happier than I am now.
As I am still relatively a noob and still learning from some of the best car tuners, you are probably overtightening the front wheel nut on the bearings, they don't have a brace inside to take the load placed on them by the nut but its not supposed to, I only tighten my front wheelnuts until I cannot move the wheel side-to-side on the axle and they still spin free. If you spin them by hand and they promptly stop, its overtightened. They should take the hits just fine, I have wheel bearings that took massive shots at the wall and walked away.

Chattering in the sweeper may be caused by just about anything, if you have a little tube dampener fluid on your front kingpin that may help, as that made some of my cars problems go away, and certainly make sure your body doesn't drag.

With the diff, I am a MASSIVE proponent of thrust-bearing diffs. I have a Gen-XL which didn't come with a thrust bearing, just the tension washer like you are probably running right now, and that will cause the outer bearing on the axle (not the diff, even though it feels like the diff) to be very crunchy very fast. I got a Slapmaster thrust bearing set (http://www.slapmastertools.com/thrust-bearings.php) and now all I do is take it apart to clean it. I would also recommend that you use the full-size CRC D-rings in the rear diff instead of the lightweight ones, and the light ones seemed to bend a little and not be as smooth for me. The thrust bearing also just about lasts forever, one guy has been running the same one on a weekly basis for about four years, just cleans it and new grease once in a while.

Well, thats my $0.10, my $0.02 was free.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:50 PM   #37211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Boyd View Post
I am not sure when I'll be able to go racing & thought it wasn't a good thing to store them fully charged? It's a new pack & like I said, I just received my GFX back so I couldn't wait til race day to charge/discharge.... I only took 2000mah out.
Sorry, I thought you were talking about discharging it dead-dead, akin to old NiMH or NiCd methods, which the GFX will do without even thinking about it. My mistake.

They (the omnipresent "they" who seem to know a little about everything ) say that the best manner to store a LiPo long term isn't fully charged. About half charge is where "they" say to store them, but that is just for long periods as a LiPo will slowly loose charge as it sits (not fast, one of mine lost about 200mah of 5000 in three months). My suggestion: If its going to be used in the next few months, just run the pack as normal don't worry about it.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:54 PM   #37212
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
As I am still relatively a noob and still learning from some of the best car tuners, you are probably overtightening the front wheel nut on the bearings, they don't have a brace inside to take the load placed on them by the nut but its not supposed to, I only tighten my front wheelnuts until I cannot move the wheel side-to-side on the axle and they still spin free. If you spin them by hand and they promptly stop, its overtightened. They should take the hits just fine, I have wheel bearings that took massive shots at the wall and walked away.

Chattering in the sweeper may be caused by just about anything, if you have a little tube dampener fluid on your front kingpin that may help, as that made some of my cars problems go away, and certainly make sure your body doesn't drag.

With the diff, I am a MASSIVE proponent of thrust-bearing diffs. I have a Gen-XL which didn't come with a thrust bearing, just the tension washer like you are probably running right now, and that will cause the outer bearing on the axle (not the diff, even though it feels like the diff) to be very crunchy very fast. I got a Slapmaster thrust bearing set and now all I do is take it apart to clean it. I would also recommend that you use the full-size CRC D-rings in the rear diff instead of the lightweight ones, and the light ones seemed to bend a little and not be as smooth for me. The thrust bearing also just about lasts forever, one guy has been running the same one on a weekly basis for about four years, just cleans it and new grease once in a while.

Well, thats my $0.10, my $0.02 was free.
Thanks for the tips. I don't think the front nuts are to tight since the wheels will spin for a minute or more when I spin them but will check it out next Saturday. I do use the full size D-rings, mostly cause I had a hell of a time getting them seated when assembling the diff. And I will get a thrust bearing to see if that helps my diff issue.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:58 PM   #37213
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It might not be slipping, it might be "diffing". If the car starts to get a little loose during a run, it can start lifting the inside rear tire on corner exit and with one tire in the air, it will just go zing for a bit. Stiffer front springs may help.
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Old 12-03-2011, 07:25 PM   #37214
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Try a simple solution. Thoroughly clean the threads on the axle with lighter fluid or motor spray, get a new nylon diff nut. Use at least 2 of the cupped bellevue washers on the diff cone. Tighten it slowly a pinch at a time just until the gear does not slip. Be sure the nut is not bottoming out at the end of the threads.
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Old 12-03-2011, 07:55 PM   #37215
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
It might not be slipping, it might be "diffing". If the car starts to get a little loose during a run, it can start lifting the inside rear tire on corner exit and with one tire in the air, it will just go zing for a bit. Stiffer front springs may help.
What I was thinking too....
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