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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 08-22-2003, 01:00 AM   #3706
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Also on a side note, when I bought my first 1/12th car the shop owner told me that most of the guys used Trinity's red stuff and white stuff, but she wasn't sure of where they used it??? know from testing experience that the red stuff / automotive bearing grease is a bit too thick for the dampertubes on asphalt!!LOL
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

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Old 08-22-2003, 06:21 AM   #3707
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Originally posted by racerdx6
I haven't had any problems with my new edition front JACO rims being wobbly. Mabey yours just need to be retrued. But that would only make a difference if the tire was wobbly and not the rim. Mabey you could send yours back and get some new ones .
Its the rims that are wobbly. I know its not just me, its happening to the guys I race with too.

Not only that, but they get wobbly, especially around the inner bearing.
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Old 08-22-2003, 08:29 AM   #3708
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Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Just incase I need to look at other routes what weight shock oil would the Losi light and medium hydra fluids be close to?? Or is there other suitable fluids/lubes that will have about the same sticktion prperties and last a little longer than shock oil ( damper tubes seem to need relubed after each run for maximum consistancy when using shock oil)

How often do most of you Speedmerchant drivers need to rebuild/relube your damper tubes...

Thanks agian...
I have heard that the oils used for tuning 1/8th buggy diffs can be used. 5000wt is supposed to be close to the medium hydradrive fluid.

I run the CK, I clean and relube my damper tubes every 3 race days, 15 runs.
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Old 08-22-2003, 11:30 AM   #3709
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Originally posted by newracer
I have heard that the oils used for tuning 1/8th buggy diffs can be used. 5000wt is supposed to be close to the medium hydradrive fluid.
Ofna 5000 is what I have been using. It seems to work quite well. If I'm feeling like Superman and my reflexes are sharp I will use 7000.

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Old 08-22-2003, 05:55 PM   #3710
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Default Damper Lube

Corally makes a nice silicone lube also. Losi is still the best if you can get it. MAke sure you don't use the waxy stuff, it doesn't work as well. Good luck.
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Old 08-24-2003, 05:45 AM   #3711
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Default 1/12 New Car from Atsushi-Hara

We finished 1 / 12 Japan championships at last this week. Atsushi Hara used his prototype car. Although it was not a 1st place, Atsushi Hara ranked 2nd. According to him, this kit will be put on the market soon. Pics and movie were uploaded to my page.

Kimihiko Yano
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Old 08-24-2003, 06:50 PM   #3712
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hello, i am running (or at least i will be eventually) a Reedy Krypton 10x2 in a 12scale. my question is what sort of timing would you champs recomend. it came stanard (at zero deg) but i think that more might be better. anyways, please give me your thoughts.

we run on an asphalt outdoor track, that has quite a long straight, and no really slow corners. i run an associated rc12l3.

so please give me your thoughts .

it currently has a 21pinion 75? (i think) spur.

sorry if this was too general..
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Old 08-24-2003, 07:15 PM   #3713
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IMPACT- Who was running the body? If a newbie who finds it impossible to take the straighaway without turning in the middle is running a yok body, while josh cyrul is running and ascari, of course the ascari will look hooked up. Also you want to set your car up so it works with the body. The ascari (in lightweight trim, which ALL YOU EVER RUN FOR 12th, is actually very durable), however it has too much front grip for asphalt, so while it wont be undrivable, the car wont feel right, and could cause unwanted mistakes, since it will be hard to drive consistnatly.

On asphalt, you can NEVER have enough rear traction, and thats one thing that the yok body has. if you start to push, add front grip, dont take away rear grip. Also the yok body is rather durable (its more a of middle weight body with flexable lexan, no matter what they label it as).

I am not a pro-line driver, so I am just passing on what I have learned to help out.

carbon- A 10 double KR is alot of motor. All of the Reedy guys have actually been running the Ti in 12th scale (dont ask me why, but just an FYI). Also by the way you described it, it seems as if you are running 48 pitch gears. Pick up some 64 pitch ones. Try a 100 tooth spur, and pinions from 25-30. Also if you have no yet, run a stock motor first, it wont be as slow as you think, and it will be alot more driveable.
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Old 08-24-2003, 10:41 PM   #3714
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I have a question about my Ascari body. I was looking at my friends 12th scale body (I think either a Parma or a Yokomo) and there are two small rectangular cut outs in the rear wing. When I was looking at my Ascari I noticed those two spots also, but they were not cut out. So I'm wondering if I should cut those out or not? Do you guys have any idea how that would change the hangling of my car? Thanks
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Old 08-25-2003, 01:56 AM   #3715
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stormperson, thanks for the info

i will chase up some 64p gears, i only used 48 coz thats what i had from my touring collection.
I have tried a 16x2 and lost alot on the straight bits.. thats the reason for teh fat horsepower. but i will take ur info, and will give it a go. thanks, i really appreciate any information.

Rob Storey
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Old 08-25-2003, 04:04 AM   #3716
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stormperson, you might remember trying to convince me to get a 4 cell car for a tiny track a while back. I found a good deal on a 2nd hand CK on ebay so I should be set for the coming championship. Just need to pick up some more pinions, a body or two, an extra pack of 33s and possibly some more tires (purple/grey never worked with 6 cell)

I remember that you said a 19 turn would work on the track, but other people are saying a 12 turn would be a better option. What sort of roll-out should I start with on such a small track with a 12x2 (b/c i have one lying around)?

Any other upgrades I should get while I'm at it?
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Old 08-25-2003, 06:33 AM   #3717
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ROAR rules prohibit the cut out of any part of the body except to clear the wheels and the antenna. The cutouts you say were for aerodynamic reasons. Those would not be allowed at a ROAR sanctioned race.
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Old 08-25-2003, 06:49 AM   #3718
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Originally posted by davidl
ROAR rules prohibit the cut out of any part of the body except to clear the wheels and the antenna. The cutouts you say were for aerodynamic reasons. Those would not be allowed at a ROAR sanctioned race.
I thought the Protoform Ascari had marked cutouts below the rear spoiler. Those cutouts are also true to the full scale car, correct?
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Old 08-25-2003, 07:15 AM   #3719
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davidl: When was that rule enacted? As I recall the old Proto Peugeot 905, The McAllister Intrepid, The Andy's Nissan 300ZXGTP, (the original LOLA based Nissan, not the NPT90 like the AE), and the Bud's NPT90 all had sections marked off that could be removed to simulate the seperate section of the rear wing for the sake of realism. The AE Nissan also had a provision for trimming out the front fender well outlets to vent air from the fender well, just like the real car. I personally know of at least two MAJOR drivers who ran the AE body with the wheel well outlets cut out, and the Peugeot with the wing details removed, at ROAR events. And I ran the McAllister with the Wing detail removed at either the 90 or 91 region 5 champs. Not trying to start anything, just looking for clarification.
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Last edited by CypressMidWest; 08-25-2003 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 08-25-2003, 07:22 AM   #3720
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I also just wonder why they have area's marked there to remove a section if it's actually illegal ? Oh well, the first ascari body I ran (and now its very much broken ) I didn't cut those out and I liked how it handled. Here's another question I have about the ascari, does anyone know if this body is actually based on a real car???? If it is, can anyone post some pictures of the car for all to see. That would be really great. Thanks .
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