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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-28-2011, 11:53 AM   #37141
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
The Synthetic Black / Grey Low, or Black / Yellow combo should be the best option for the conditions you describe.

What tire sauce are/were you using ?

Getting everyone to use the same tire sauce should help with consistency.
Also try not to wander off the main groove. If the tires are sticky and pickup fuzz from driving off-line, it will be hard to hold a line in the next few corners, making matters even worse.

What type of maintenance do the track owners follow?
At TQ the owner will vacuum the track once a week with unique a scoop that rides on TC tires so as not to stir up any fuzz, it only sucks up dirt and broken car bits.
Since he has used this method our grip has improved considerably.
Using SXT as is everyone else.

As far as wandering off the groove, it's more of an issue that the tires are getting tacky first, causing the car to push, which does not help with keeping the car in the groove.

It almost seems as though there is so much tire dope on the track that the foam is getting saturated with it.

After an 8 minute run, if I grabbed a rear tire with my hand, my hand would be completely black.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:42 PM   #37142
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I have never heard of this problem, and its still just medium traction and the cars feel sluggish? what kind of carpet? is it the SXT 3.0 compound, because they say that the others are for rubber tires.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:01 PM   #37143
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I have never heard of this problem, and its still just medium traction and the cars feel sluggish? what kind of carpet? is it the SXT 3.0 compound, because they say that the others are for rubber tires.
The traction has come up and is now high traction with the increase of cars running on it. CRC Carpet. SXT 3.0.

I also experienced this issue at IIC as did others, the tires started to get really tacky and that is what I think is causing the cars to feel sluggish, the tires are gumm'd up.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:53 PM   #37144
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The traction has come up and is now high traction with the increase of cars running on it. CRC Carpet. SXT 3.0.

I also experienced this issue at IIC as did others, the tires started to get really tacky and that is what I think is causing the cars to feel sluggish, the tires are gumm'd up.
It's impossible to have more grip than iic, at least from my experience.
New rug, 53 heats per round of non-stop JTG sauced tires.

And yes, the tires were black and sticky at iic, but no fuzz, and no build-up
Perfect traction for 8 mins no problem.

I used Black/Yellow for blinky and boosted, Magenta for mod.
We just run smaller dia tires when there is that much grip.

Most of the upper class drivers only used the tires for one round per day, 2 max.
That may help in your situation, to have a rotations of tires, use the same 3 sets, from week to week, but no re-runs the same day.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:55 PM   #37145
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Using SXT as is everyone else.

As far as wandering off the groove, it's more of an issue that the tires are getting tacky first, causing the car to push, which does not help with keeping the car in the groove.

It almost seems as though there is so much tire dope on the track that the foam is getting saturated with it.

After an 8 minute run, if I grabbed a rear tire with my hand, my hand would be completely black.
Is everyone wipping there tires off before they get on the track? Or doing a light burnout on some piece of carpet before they get on the track?
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:01 PM   #37146
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Is everyone wipping there tires off before they get on the track? Or doing a light burnout on some piece of carpet before they get on the track?
Yes, both.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:21 PM   #37147
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man I wish I had your problems. Too many racers and too much traction, hell, whatever will you do.

On a serious note, if it really gets bad one might consider changing the tire sauce, or not running any for a weekend or so.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:31 PM   #37148
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Clean tires every run with motor spray let dry and dope and I bet it will fix the problem with the gumming and fuzzing
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:39 PM   #37149
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Is everyone wipping there tires off before they get on the track? Or doing a light burnout on some piece of carpet before they get on the track?
Removing the excess tire sauce from your tires before getting on the track is a must, whether you do it with a rag in the pits or on a burn-out pad. Leaving lines of tire sauce on any portion of the track is a big no-no and against the rules pretty much everywhere. NorCal is so lax about enforcing rules you may have not heard this before, but it is a good rule and to everyone's benefit not to go on the track with wet tires
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:11 PM   #37150
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Check out the Rollout Companion thread

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Old 11-28-2011, 09:23 PM   #37151
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We enforce the rule of no wet tires and for the most part everyone is very good about wiping there tires. What we're seeing is what happens at big races with Jack the Gripper. The Lilac\Magenta family of tires really lay down the compound and foam in to the carpet. We've been running a far amount of WGT lately and now 13.5 12th scale. On top of that, this last week the track was used 4 days of 5 with the holidays. So the grove by Sunday was something we have not seem since our last 3 day race.

It's seems the best advice I've heard so far is have several sets of tires available and rotate each set in during a race day. Basically run once, clean with motor spray, change to a dry set from last race day. I guess many of the pros at big races do this. This is probably one of the reason most at our tack seem to get slower as the day goes on. The 2nd qualifier seems to be the best.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:42 PM   #37152
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Should the steering link be of equal length? If so? Is there a technique involve in making them of equal length? I tried to make mine to be of the same length but the other tire tend to go out more or vice versa.
Any help is appreciated.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:50 PM   #37153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Removing the excess tire sauce from your tires before getting on the track is a must, whether you do it with a rag in the pits or on a burn-out pad. Leaving lines of tire sauce on any portion of the track is a big no-no and against the rules pretty much everywhere. NorCal is so lax about enforcing rules you may have not heard this before, but it is a good rule and to everyone's benefit not to go on the track with wet tires
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
We enforce the rule of no wet tires and for the most part everyone is very good about wiping there tires. What we're seeing is what happens at big races with Jack the Gripper. The Lilac\Magenta family of tires really lay down the compound and foam in to the carpet. We've been running a far amount of WGT lately and now 13.5 12th scale. On top of that, this last week the track was used 4 days of 5 with the holidays. So the grove by Sunday was something we have not seem since our last 3 day race.

It's seems the best advice I've heard so far is have several sets of tires available and rotate each set in during a race day. Basically run once, clean with motor spray, change to a dry set from last race day. I guess many of the pros at big races do this. This is probably one of the reason most at our tack seem to get slower as the day goes on. The 2nd qualifier seems to be the best.
Multiquoting this so I can post it on our home forum for a couple guys who seem to think wiping tires off before you set your car down isn't the way things are done. I am so glad to see this!
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:00 PM   #37154
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
Clean tires every run with motor spray let dry and dope and I bet it will fix the problem with the gumming and fuzzing
Agreed.

Myself, 303slowdown and bkspeedo race at the same track, I'm sure between the 3 of us we can test the above solution.

And yes, everyone at the track wipes their tires in some way before running on the track.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:02 PM   #37155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheehtae View Post
Should the steering link be of equal length? If so? Is there a technique involve in making them of equal length? I tried to make mine to be of the same length but the other tire tend to go out more or vice versa.
Any help is appreciated.
The biggest thing is to get the servo horn exactly centered in the chassis, I do this with my calipers measuring from the outside of the chassis plate, and a few thousandths in either direction is a few thousandths too much. When the car starts turning harder in one direction than the other, its usually because the servo is out of center. Once its centered and locked down, I just make sure the links are the same length with the calipers and it always turns even.
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