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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-25-2011, 01:34 AM   #37111
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Hey guys,

i'm about to start 1/12 scale racing with a xray X12 and would like to know if there are any spares or option parts that i should buy?

A rear (new steel axle) and some front axles are already on my list in case of a serious crash but what else could break?
Because we have no dealer with parts around at our track i would like to have all neccesary parts with me.

Would be be glad if anybody could give me an advice which parts should be in my bag.

cheers
mark
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:59 AM   #37112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wazee View Post
Hey guys,

i'm about to start 1/12 scale racing with a xray X12 and would like to know if there are any spares or option parts that i should buy?

A rear (new steel axle) and some front axles are already on my list in case of a serious crash but what else could break?
Because we have no dealer with parts around at our track i would like to have all neccesary parts with me.

Would be be glad if anybody could give me an advice which parts should be in my bag.

cheers
mark
Not to be funny but if there is no dealers close by. Maybe buy another car so you have everything from the start! You really never know what you might break or loose and need at a moments notice. It could be a little shim or something stupid! Rear axles are a good starting point though!
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Old 11-25-2011, 02:28 AM   #37113
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I just finnished building my X12. I will be running it with a 13,5T and Novak Kinetic ESC just for fun really. Just need to get some practice during winter.

Carpet is old and worn in my local track, and temps are (very) low.

Any tips to make the winter as problem free as possible? Im thinking tires setup/maintenance, setup tips and so on.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:49 AM   #37114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wazee View Post
Hey guys,

i'm about to start 1/12 scale racing with a xray X12 and would like to know if there are any spares or option parts that i should buy?

A rear (new steel axle) and some front axles are already on my list in case of a serious crash but what else could break?
Because we have no dealer with parts around at our track i would like to have all neccesary parts with me.

Would be be glad if anybody could give me an advice which parts should be in my bag.

cheers
mark
You mentioned a steel rear axel ,I would not get a steel rear axel. When you crash with a steel rear axel instead of just breaking an axel you bend the rear pod aluminum and break the carbon pod plates ( I know from experience ) as for spares get a pair of each front end piece , some spare links and pivot ball ,while your at it get a set of front and rear springs and you should be set
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:06 AM   #37115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wazee View Post
Hey guys,

i'm about to start 1/12 scale racing with a xray X12 and would like to know if there are any spares or option parts that i should buy?

A rear (new steel axle) and some front axles are already on my list in case of a serious crash but what else could break?
Because we have no dealer with parts around at our track i would like to have all neccesary parts with me.

Would be be glad if anybody could give me an advice which parts should be in my bag.

cheers
mark
Steel axle, eh? Can you say moment of inertia? One, it will bend. Two, it's like swinging a weight in the rear. Three, the carbon axles seem strong enough to endure noob crashes. Four, didn't even know that these still exist.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:06 AM   #37116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Soft setups work well on the inline R5.
The car corners flat regardless.
Seems with the CRC cars it's a bit different, not that I have tried one, but I have tried to help other racers with them, and the CRC cars just work better with stiff settings.

Maybe the GenXi will be different ?
SpeedMerchant has been running soft in high grip since Bruce introduced the linear side springs. Look closely at Mikes car, Bruce drilled out his tweak plate at the IIC and those are linear .18 side springs he used. Most all have migrated to running softer in high grip because it's easier to drive, especially in modified.
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:28 PM   #37117
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The new Xray X12 comes with a steel/carbon axle. Its a steel rod inside the axle. Looking forward to see how i works (i think)

Edit: when looking at the presentation on the Xray site, in one place it mentiones "Newly-designed rear differential has a new way of combining the steel axle with the graphite axle for increased durability", while on another place it says "Super-lightweight rear axle made from 1-piece high-grade graphite rod, additionally precision hand ground to eliminate vibration and run-out".
When I asembeled the car, the axle felt quite heavy.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:05 PM   #37118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_robinson View Post
SpeedMerchant has been running soft in high grip since Bruce introduced the linear side springs. Look closely at Mikes car, Bruce drilled out his tweak plate at the IIC and those are linear .18 side springs he used. Most all have migrated to running softer in high grip because it's easier to drive, especially in modified.
Doesn't surprise me at all that Bruce was ahead of the curve on the soft spring setup

Just haven't noticed it till the last few months with all the inline cars.
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:13 AM   #37119
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soooo I acquired a rc12L4 and was working on it a bit and noticed its nearly impossible to run brushless motors in the stock pod so i was wondering if there are any worth while conversions making it a link car or just easier to set up for brushless? like would i be able mount say an entire pod from the rc12r5 t-plate car or say one from the xray xii t-plate car?
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:09 AM   #37120
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
soooo I acquired a rc12L4 and was working on it a bit and noticed its nearly impossible to run brushless motors in the stock pod so i was wondering if there are any worth while conversions making it a link car or just easier to set up for brushless? like would i be able mount say an entire pod from the rc12r5 t-plate car or say one from the xray xii t-plate car?
Any conversion you may try will end up costing you more than buying a used RC12R5.1 which you can get from $80 to $120.

We have one person modify his L4 for 1S and BL and he is fast in a straight line but the car just doesn't handle well.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:07 PM   #37121
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What is the latest and greatest 1S voltage boost setup for a Tekin RS running 17.5 blinky on a CRC Gen XL

Also. Since I am running bare stock class, is there a 17.5 motor that stands out?
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:12 PM   #37122
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Default steel axles

Greetings. Coincidently , steel axles are available (see rjspeed-Bolink ); with an appropriately placed spacer, a bolink style drive shaft can be utilized ( but consider the physics-as stated in the previous reply(s)-) fiber glass axels are also a suitable replacement. Correct me if i'm wrong, Niftech had axels available. It's been awile since i've ordered from them.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:35 PM   #37123
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Hi, guys never run 12 scale before and thinking about getting the xray X12 and just want to know what stuff to run, speedy, servo, tires, body. Any info will be very helpful Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:56 PM   #37124
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Default Need a 12th scale rear arbor

WTB ; Team Cobra Lathe arbor - 12th scale 3 bolt

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm looking for a Team Cobra rear arbor for 12th scale 3 bolt pattern wheels. Will pay $10 plus actual shipping.

Thanks!

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Old 11-26-2011, 04:12 PM   #37125
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Originally Posted by danthrc View Post
What is the latest and greatest 1S voltage boost setup for a Tekin RS running 17.5 blinky on a CRC Gen XL

Also. Since I am running bare stock class, is there a 17.5 motor that stands out?
If you are running Blinky then you have zero boost. The RevTech 17.5 is supposed to be good for Blinky. I use the D3 in boosted 17.5.
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