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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-24-2011, 02:28 AM   #37081
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Don't understand why more "Racers" haven't jumped on the 12th bandwagon yet, especially for indoor racing
Totally agree. For me, 1/12 racing is the class to race. It's everything you said, and more. I wish more people would give it a try, in a lot of ways it is up to the people who race it to promote it (reasonably) and help the new racers as much as possible.

The intimidation factor of 1/12 is the apparent 'voodoo' that tuning presents to the typical touring car racer, or new racer. In many ways it is less about nutting and bolting the car and more about finesse. We do everything a half millimeter at a time, and in a different manner. It's just a shame since touring car is more complicated; it's just more what I would call 'nut and bolt' tuning where 1/12 is more 'finessing the car'.

Mass sharing of tuning information is the only way to really get people over it. Someone more motivated than myself should do a wiki page dedicated to just tuning a 12scale. There is a 'tuning guide' floating around but its sort of arbitrary and doesn't explain anything in a way that it will help the new racers.
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:35 AM   #37082
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Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
Totally agree. For me, 1/12 racing is the class to race. It's everything you said, and more. I wish more people would give it a try, in a lot of ways it is up to the people who race it to promote it (reasonably) and help the new racers as much as possible.

The intimidation factor of 1/12 is the apparent 'voodoo' that tuning presents to the typical touring car racer, or new racer. In many ways it is less about nutting and bolting the car and more about finesse. We do everything a half millimeter at a time, and in a different manner. It's just a shame since touring car is more complicated; it's just more what I would call 'nut and bolt' tuning where 1/12 is more 'finessing the car'.

Mass sharing of tuning information is the only way to really get people over it. Someone more motivated than myself should do a wiki page dedicated to just tuning a 12scale. There is a 'tuning guide' floating around but its sort of arbitrary and doesn't explain anything in a way that it will help the new racers.
I also agree. We all share information at the track (no one throws a towel over their car) in order to promote good friendly competition. The track is dominated by CRC cars but the couple AEs stick together.

We have converted some oval racers to try turning right and they are now hooked on road course driving. Now if only CRCs didn't break we would have more converts but a few good hits and their chassis releases either the front bumper or the upper pod brace. That turns off some people.
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:50 AM   #37083
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Lol don't hit anything then
It will stop breaking down

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Now if only CRCs didn't break we would have more converts but a few good hits and their chassis releases either the front bumper or the upper pod brace. That turns off some people.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:14 AM   #37084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
The intimidation factor of 1/12 is the apparent 'voodoo' that tuning presents to the typical touring car racer, or new racer. In many ways it is less about nutting and bolting the car and more about finesse. We do everything a half millimeter at a time, and in a different manner. It's just a shame since touring car is more complicated; it's just more what I would call 'nut and bolt' tuning where 1/12 is more 'finessing the car'.
Nicley said. That is what most of the TC or nitro guy's don't understand about 12th scale. It's all with tent's of millimeters and more "finesse" then TC or a 1:8. That's also what I like about 12th scale racing, the speed, the feel, the reaction, the finesse.

Regards Robert
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:18 AM   #37085
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
We have converted some oval racers to try turning right and they are now hooked on road course driving. Now if only CRCs didn't break we would have more converts but a few good hits and their chassis releases either the front bumper or the upper pod brace. That turns off some people.
If you break a top pod plate, replace it with the thick one. It's very difficult to break. Better yet, go to the fully boxed pod, pretty much indestructible then.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:59 AM   #37086
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
If you break a top pod plate, replace it with the thick one. It's very difficult to break. Better yet, go to the fully boxed pod, pretty much indestructible then.
Oh, it's not me that breaks, I run an AE RC12R5.1 and only broke one A-arm in three years. The shop sells CRC and that's what the noobs drive. Both 1/12 and WGT.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:03 AM   #37087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
Totally agree. For me, 1/12 racing is the class to race. It's everything you said, and more. I wish more people would give it a try, in a lot of ways it is up to the people who race it to promote it (reasonably) and help the new racers as much as possible.

The intimidation factor of 1/12 is the apparent 'voodoo' that tuning presents to the typical touring car racer, or new racer. In many ways it is less about nutting and bolting the car and more about finesse. We do everything a half millimeter at a time, and in a different manner. It's just a shame since touring car is more complicated; it's just more what I would call 'nut and bolt' tuning where 1/12 is more 'finessing the car'.

Mass sharing of tuning information is the only way to really get people over it. Someone more motivated than myself should do a wiki page dedicated to just tuning a 12scale. There is a 'tuning guide' floating around but its sort of arbitrary and doesn't explain anything in a way that it will help the new racers.
tuning guide
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:40 AM   #37088
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Nicley said. That is what most of the TC or nitro guy's don't understand about 12th scale. It's all with tent's of millimeters and more "finesse" then TC or a 1:8. That's also what I like about 12th scale racing, the speed, the feel, the reaction, the finesse.

Regards Robert
But still the nitro guys are at the top of the podium.

(Joking)
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:46 AM   #37089
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But still the nitro guys are at the top of the podium.

(Joking)
Hara, Swauger, Burch, Paul L, and many more have won at the highest level at both.

If you don't "finesse" a 1/8th, you aren't winning at that either.

I do both, I love both. When I have a bad day at 1/8th, I find myself wishing winter would come so I can break out the 1/12th.

When I am racing 1/12th while watching the winternats online, I dream of Florida and nitro fumes

And I can assure you, 1/12th even in the middle of the speedo wars costs a tenth of what a competitive big race 1/8th program does. My tire bill from the nats would get me through a season of 1/12th. The cost of my nats motor would start a newbie up from scratch in 1/12th.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:10 AM   #37090
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The simplicity of the chassis makes it look less...but it is really close...setup is not only crucial but more crucial...TC has more fudge room in setup than pan cars do.
Yes, good point.

It's not so much that finding a good setup is crucial, as most kits out of the box have a setup that is awesome from the start.

The issue is more of teaching racers how important every facet of that setup is.
When looking at a setup sheet for your favorite 12th scale racer every detail down to the .5 millimeter needs to be followed exactly in order for that setup to be correct.
As the scale is smaller, every part of the car is magnified in importance.

This is also why finding a sturdy car that can hold a setup over time with out a lot of maintenance is key for the fun factor.

Most TC racers spend tons more time resetting, and checking over the details of a more complex car than us 12th scalers do
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:37 AM   #37091
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Hara, Swauger, Burch, Paul L, and many more have won at the highest level at both.

If you don't "finesse" a 1/8th, you aren't winning at that either.

I do both, I love both. When I have a bad day at 1/8th, I find myself wishing winter would come so I can break out the 1/12th.

When I am racing 1/12th while watching the winternats online, I dream of Florida and nitro fumes

And I can assure you, 1/12th even in the middle of the speedo wars costs a tenth of what a competitive big race 1/8th program does. My tire bill from the nats would get me through a season of 1/12th. The cost of my nats motor would start a newbie up from scratch in 1/12th.
I know, I know, Robert and I race at the same track and two weeks ago at the EPS the nitro guys took first and third, Robert second and me seventh.
It's just fun to see the different approaches between the nitro converts and the full-time electric guys, but in the end they are just as fast.

I started with the 1/12th about 6 weeks ago and I'm really liking it. Finally a car which feels at home on a carpet track.
Two months ago I started with 1/8th (also a lot of fun) and right now I have my 1/12th handling almost identically to the 1/8th

Yes, the costs are a nice change, the fact you can use a set of tires for more then one day.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:40 PM   #37092
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Anyone know what servo Naoto uses? Looks like an aircraft servo of some kind, Sanwa I'm guessing?

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...-winning-cars/
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:46 PM   #37093
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Im bummed out at my track 1/12 was catching now most of the guys are running F1 But i love my r5.2 with inline chassis car is dialed!
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:50 PM   #37094
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Anyone know what servo Naoto uses? Looks like an aircraft servo of some kind, Sanwa I'm guessing?

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...-winning-cars/
It's the Sanwa SRG-HR.

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...an-car-p-21691

I'm using it as well, only downside is you have to glue it to the supplied graphite plate because it's too small to be mounted to the standard servo posts.
I used some epoxy glue to mount it because with servo tape and superglue the servo became undone after a hard hit.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:54 PM   #37095
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Thanks! It's no problem I always glue my servos into the car anyway.
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